DylanBunch Posted March 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 I took the amp out and only ran my 4 channel. Still bad distortion too soon. Gotta be the headunit 2006 Ford Explorer 2 Team AA/Sundown 15s 6th order Ct Sounds 7k 4 PRV Mr500 8s Rockford p1000-2 Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noel989 Posted March 25, 2013 Report Share Posted March 25, 2013 Damn I'm was late My contribution I'm running my sub for over 1 1/2 years under power by about 2/3 of it's rated power I have never had a problem never So the "myth" of underpowering will damage your subs is nit true Build Log - http://www.stevemead...-cruiser-el-pt/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Ummm what? Are you sayimg I'm full of shit??? Please explain.... I hope you areYes I am Please explain how 10w is able to fuck a coil, even if it's a 10w sinus tone that's then been clipped to a square, that's still only 20w from my understanding? I know you might have exaggerated, but that's not just a little. I also do understand the point here, even if he has a 1500w amp, clip it to shit and the actual power will be way more. "Beware of TROLLS" ? I see...lol Massive dmx quad coil blown off of 25 watts clipped after 7 hours and 29 mins of playing still have sub if you would like to see picsClipping makes heat after time of getting hotter and hotter will fuck a coil Yes beware of trolls you fucking troll!!!! If 25 watt amp fully clipped blew the sub, it was already on it's way out, or something went wrong with the amp. 98% of the power input into a sub turns to heat, clipped or not. Heck - 25 watts on a 1 ohm coil is only 5volts and 5 amps. It should handle that with DC and no movement. Temperature will stablize at some point in time and the coil will not get any hotter unless more power is applied. Real world tests - 95Honda did a very extensive test with several drivers running them to their full power rating using a square wave generator for hours and never damaged one if them. . .wish he would not have killed his server so I could post a link. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRTC360 Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 '93 Firebird Formula V8 H/U- Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X395 Mids/Highs Amp- Hifonics ZXI80.4 Wiring-KNU RCA's, Speaker Wire, And Two Runs Of Trystar 1/0 G34 Red Top and a 180amp Ford Alternator www.youtube.com/TRTC360 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 I'll add that the speaker's temperature stabilized WAY before the 7 hr time frame, and it should have stabilized WAY below temps it would see with 1250 CLEAN watts going to it. Yes, the temp will stabilze. It will not just keep getting hotter for 7 hrs. It is like a light bulb. It is a lot of heat, but the temp stabilizes at a certain point based on the bulb wattage and the ambient air temp. If it just kept getting hotter over time without stabilizing, light bulbs would cause a LOT of house fires, and ANY sub would blow over time clipped or not. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DylanBunch Posted March 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Guys I found the problem. Faulty bass knob. I unplugged it and speakers sounded great and the kickers stopped distorting. 2006 Ford Explorer 2 Team AA/Sundown 15s 6th order Ct Sounds 7k 4 PRV Mr500 8s Rockford p1000-2 Team Subsonic Lows Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Azzazel_99 Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Shut the eff up!?!?!?!?! Bad bass knob? Oh man thats a blessing and a pain in the ass. I been following this whole thread and was betting my ass it was the radio haha. Glad to hear it was no real problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Guys I found the problem. Faulty bass knob. I unplugged it and speakers sounded great and the kickers stopped distorting. Straight bummer On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
caraudionoob Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Guys I found the problem. Faulty bass knob. I unplugged it and speakers sounded great and the kickers stopped distorting. Talk about anti-climatic. Here we are, arguing over every known reason and it was the stupid bass knob. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted March 26, 2013 Report Share Posted March 26, 2013 Guys I found the problem. Faulty bass knob. I unplugged it and speakers sounded great and the kickers stopped distorting.Talk about anti-climatic. Here we are, arguing over every known reason and it was the stupid bass knob. Yep - that is one of the reasons so much bad info gets spread around by people. They have a problem that could be caused by variables X, Y, and/or Z, and they just assume it is X. From that point on variable X is everyone's problem! One time I got into a long debate with Nick from Fi on wiring a sub's coils in series vs. parallel. nick claimed a sub was more likely to blow if it was running on 2000 watts with the coils in parallel vs. running on 2000 watts with the coils in series, due to the higher current. If you draw out the circuit and do the math, in both cases, each coil sees 1000 watts on a set resistance. The voltage and amperage on each coil is the same in both cases (the current and voltage changes at the power source, but not across each coil of the sub). I used his saying "the sub is dumb, it does not know if it is wired in series or parallel". It just creates a magnetic field based on the power applied. He based the entire argurement on an experience where they blew a sub on one of the JBL amps that is rated the same power from 1 to 4 ohms. They ran the dual two ohm sub at 4 ohms without any issues, then switched it to 1 ohm and blew it. I tried to explain that more than one variable changed there. In this situation, the amp has to go from high voltage, low current to low voltage, high current. Maybe even though it is "rated" the same it output a little more power at one ohm. Did they check the gain setting when they changed impedance since the output voltage changed? There is a long list of things that changed when the inpedamce changed, but he just assumed all things were the same and because the coils went from series to parallel a sub was more likely to blow with the coils in parallel. . . Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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