russtezecustoms Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Sorry just had to post again to get the follow option on my phone to come up. I just wish i had a funny sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Also, some amps may not like A LOT of rca input voltage On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 RootBeer... Great point but I've also tried backing off the LOC and giving it some gain... The problem persists. :/ Rusteez... I may look into doing that. Do you/anybody know if a significant voltage drop could cause the amp to stop playing but not shut down..? It just didn't seem likely to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 There is no way a pair of Type R's are stomping out some SSD's. Something is not right in the sentence. Check your ground, make sure its not loose. Check for any type of loosing connection, and I meany any. RCA, Speaker, positive run. Shit pull the sub out and make sure there are no wires coming out of the connectors and are shaking enough at high volumes to arc to something and create a quick short. I dont think the OP is aware of what I said here. Check loose connections bro. On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted March 30, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 RootBeer... The Type R's played remarkably for that caliber, in their defense . But they were sealed, these are ported, and they're still getting outgunned?! I have checked RCAs, ground is tight, power, fuses... All good. Speaker wires - good. You bring forth a good point about inside the box but I've played them in free-air and they still do it. It's some bull**** I tell ya.RootBeer... I follow ya, man. I feel like they all seem to be pretty solid. Ideas?GhostRider... I might need to crank out the DMM if that's the case. I didn't think the battery had a choice where it sent power. Maybe it's dipping low 10's. That's a big *** amp for a stock system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russtezecustoms Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 I never had a prob w/this lanzar but the previous amp i had gave similar symptoms, the brace i was grounded to was bolted on. At full tilt it would cut out but not protect and all lights stayed on. I moved the ground to the strut bolt and had no more problems. Upgraded everything to 1/0 and put the bigger amp in and it is doing great!!!! Just a side note i also have a cheap 4 chanel amp running my mids/highs, i havent clamped the little one yet but im probably at 2000 w rms. Pretty goood for stock alt. Just waiting for it to poop out to justify geting it rewound. I just wish i had a funny sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
russtezecustoms Posted March 30, 2013 Report Share Posted March 30, 2013 Its not realy a choice issue more of a path of least resistance thing. If your ground is bottle necking the flow it wont be sufficiant Edit:spelling I just wish i had a funny sig. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Okay guys sorry for the radio silence... Last month was busy for me. Really busy. Anyway, Since I last checked in, I've tried the troubleshooting step suggested by Ghostrider (Hook-up the amp to an external signal i.e. an iPod). I tried this with an iPhone powered by a headphone amplifier to boost the signal. The speakers still cut out so that should eliminate all questions pre-amp such as signal conversion, etc. Also, I have analyzed the voltage drops both at the battery and at the amplifier and the lowest the power dipped was 11.3v. Also of note is that there seemed to be no correlation between the voltage drops and the speakers cutting out. However, the speakers do cut out at what seems to be the hardest-hitting notes. As of now, it appears the issue lies either in the ground or the (dread) subwoofer wires inside the box. What do you guys think? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z3nor Posted May 7, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 Ghostrider... I'm grounded to a steel brace on the left wall of my trunk. I initially sanded it down with a coarse wire brush on my power drill. And a headphone amplifier is for high-resistance headphones (300+ OHMs) such as my pair of Sennheiser HD600's. They're $400+ headphones but they're used for studio monitoring and tracking vocals. About as clean of sound you'd ever hear. It just takes more power than an average source can give. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Need Bass Posted May 7, 2013 Report Share Posted May 7, 2013 I quickly skimmed the first post you made, and noticed that you said both subs cut out. That makes me think that it's not a problem with the wiring to the subs... possibly the box's terminal cup if the subs share one, but other than that I'd guess it's your ground. Also, concerning the ground, I know ghost or someone said check the connections. What I say you should do is check the terminal connectors or whatever you used at the ends of your wires. What I'm thinking is maybe the wire could be rattling loose from the terminal at the end? Idk if I'm evening calling it the right thing, but I'm talking about these: If you used these, check the connections from them to the wire, maybe that's loose? EDIT: sorry for such a big pic lolAlso: Terminal ring, that's what they're called My Build Log Heros get remembered, but legends never die. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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