SlamminBeats Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 1) on cold starts, my right bulb doesn't always fire up. I have to flip the key a few times...easy to do but annoying. Why is this? 2) I pull headlight out codes for both headlights. How do I fix this issue and trick the car to thinking its fine. Im using a relay and my factory plug has nothing connected to it, hence why it pulls codes. Is there a cap/resistor i can put in it to trick the system? Car is a 2008 Saab 93. The HIDs are in the projector head lamps. I'm using the canbus ballast that is supposed to eliminate the codes but that is a lie... I dont have any flickering issues either. help me please!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hdorre Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Have you tried swapping relays, ballasts, and bulbs between the sides (to try to find what exactly the issue is)? On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassinyerface Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 For the headlight out codes you need a code deletion harness. You can find em on just about any hid website. I recomend www.ddmtuning.com 2003 f150, 2 ab hd 15 on brutus 2400.1, kinetik batt, big 3, knu wire, image dynamics cxs 6.5 with ppi tweets, pioneer 1din and clarion eq. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HunterJohnson Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 does your car have the quick flashing to preserve halogen lights like the newer mustangs. If they do, you will need a capacitor to regulate an even flow to the HIDS Scion tC SQ BuildiPad mini, lots of fabrication, daily drivenFord Explorer C Pillar Wall Build Just a cheap car to destroy with bass Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Have you tried swapping relays, ballasts, and bulbs between the sides (to try to find what exactly the issue is)? no but its been doing it since day 1 with different bulbs used. its the car, not the lights Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 for #1 I have the same problem and mine is caused by voltage. Try to kick on your lights with the vehicle off. If they both start then turn on your engine and wait a few seconds. Try to turn on the lights now that the engine is on. If you only have one that works and the other one doesnt then you have the EXACT issue I do with your voltage fucking with the ballast wanting to fire. I have my setup 100% correct with independent relays, ballasts, bulbs, etc. and it gives me that problem. Even bypassing the switch still does it to me. I have a thread on trying to figure out how I can wire a resistor in line with the ballast to lower the voltage just enough to make it turn on when my voltage is too high (when my truck is very cold I charge at around 14.8-15.2v on average). As for your headlight out warning its simply a little resistor that goes in line with the stock harness before it plugs into your relay harness (if you use one, you really should to prevent melting the stock wiring harness) and the resistance resembles the resistance levels that a halogen bulb possesses when it is lit. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 for #1 I have the same problem and mine is caused by voltage. Try to kick on your lights with the vehicle off. If they both start then turn on your engine and wait a few seconds. Try to turn on the lights now that the engine is on. If you only have one that works and the other one doesnt then you have the EXACT issue I do with your voltage fucking with the ballast wanting to fire. I have my setup 100% correct with independent relays, ballasts, bulbs, etc. and it gives me that problem. Even bypassing the switch still does it to me. I have a thread on trying to figure out how I can wire a resistor in line with the ballast to lower the voltage just enough to make it turn on when my voltage is too high (when my truck is very cold I charge at around 14.8-15.2v on average). As for your headlight out warning its simply a little resistor that goes in line with the stock harness before it plugs into your relay harness (if you use one, you really should to prevent melting the stock wiring harness) and the resistance resembles the resistance levels that a halogen bulb possesses when it is lit. For #1 even kicking just the lights on before the engine, the issue is still there, its just luck if it works on the first try but that is rare and would an error canceler harness work to fix the codes? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Yes its merely a resistor inside a pretty looking and easy to connect unit. Super cheap and in fact if you trust your ability to splice and run a resistor in series with the wire you can go to radioshack and get a resistor that is the right resistance and wire one up yourself but be warned they can get pretty hot so put it somewhere that it cannot burn your paint or anything like that. As for kicking it, that isnt doing shit for you. Just try like I said. I had the issue where after a few months of troubleshooting it, hard wiring the relays to their own switch, putting the ballast directly to the battery instead of through a harness it still happened when the voltage was too high. All my other lights were fine but the one 50w ballast I had would fuck up every time. I sent it in for service and it was "tested" and came back to me after I paid shipping for a total waste of my and their time only to have it still fuck up. Another thing you can do as long as you don't hold it there forever is if you have electronic windows, hold all 4 window switches in the up position and once you hold it there immediately switch over the headlights so they kick on. If they fire then your issue is voltage because when your windows are already up and you push the up button it makes a huge load on your electrical system causing the voltage to drop and be in the area where the ballast wants to fire at. Personally I think its a problem with the ballast but the company I bought mine from kept denying it... 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted April 3, 2013 Author Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 Yes its merely a resistor inside a pretty looking and easy to connect unit. Super cheap and in fact if you trust your ability to splice and run a resistor in series with the wire you can go to radioshack and get a resistor that is the right resistance and wire one up yourself but be warned they can get pretty hot so put it somewhere that it cannot burn your paint or anything like that. As for kicking it, that isnt doing shit for you. Just try like I said. I had the issue where after a few months of troubleshooting it, hard wiring the relays to their own switch, putting the ballast directly to the battery instead of through a harness it still happened when the voltage was too high. All my other lights were fine but the one 50w ballast I had would fuck up every time. I sent it in for service and it was "tested" and came back to me after I paid shipping for a total waste of my and their time only to have it still fuck up. Another thing you can do as long as you don't hold it there forever is if you have electronic windows, hold all 4 window switches in the up position and once you hold it there immediately switch over the headlights so they kick on. If they fire then your issue is voltage because when your windows are already up and you push the up button it makes a huge load on your electrical system causing the voltage to drop and be in the area where the ballast wants to fire at. Personally I think its a problem with the ballast but the company I bought mine from kept denying it... what ohm resistors will i need? right now my factory harness is completely disconnected i believe so of course the car thinks the lights are out lol, but i have nothing that needs to go to it you know? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted April 3, 2013 Report Share Posted April 3, 2013 So how do you have the lights working if you disconnected it from the harness? Are you using a dedicated switch and relays for the ballasts? Almost all relay kits have it where you plug the stock wiring in one part of the relay kit and this connection is what energizes the relay to make the power flow through from the battery to the ballast connections offered from the relay kit itself. As for your resistance I am not too sure what you need for resistance. Different cars have different ranges that they check for the bulb out warnings. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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