alenv10 Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Posted May 14, 2013 Yea i just measured, deff way more space then that bro NOTHING DOWN HERE YET OBSIDIAN FTW
321slapinbass Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 you are measuring the floor.... you need to measure from the top of the rear seat's headrest since your box will be 20" tall and the seats are not straight up. so from the headrest to the rear hatch there is about 45", and your port is 6" tall so you need to leave 6" of space between the box and hatch in order for your port to breath. this means your box can only be 39" deep, UNLESS YOU DO SUB UP PORT UP then you could do about 44" deep 2000 Dodge Durango Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm Mids + Highs - PRV Audio Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4 Headunit - Alpine CDE-100 Equalizer - Clarion EQS746 Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0 Alternator - Singer 250A 147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash 147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos
321slapinbass Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 I would do this: 13.34 cubes @ 34.16hz box: 44 x 20 x 39 = 17 cubes port: 38 x 5 x 21.5 = 34.16 hz , 14.24in^2 per cube, displacement of 2.72 cubes subs: displacement of .74 cubes bracing: displacement of .2 cubes 17 - 2.72 = 14.28 14.28 - .74 = 13.54 13.54 - .2 = 13.34 so your box will be 13.34 cubes (3.33 each) tuned to 34.16hz with 14.24in^2 of port per cube. I would also suggest making the top a double baffle, but that's easy, just add the 2nd layer on top when the box is done. this will make it 20.75" total height. EDIT : I changed the specs for a higher tuning and more airspace. 2000 Dodge Durango Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm Mids + Highs - PRV Audio Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4 Headunit - Alpine CDE-100 Equalizer - Clarion EQS746 Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0 Alternator - Singer 250A 147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash 147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos
Swordlordboy1234 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 Wall it My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
mrd6 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 what is your port orientation? I would try port across the bottom of the box and tune a bit higher around 34-35 (get some air space back from shorte port). If your port only has a height of 4-5 inches then you only need to be about 5-6 inches away from the tail gate. With the port loading like this your in car tuning will drop as well since the tail gate acts as an extension of the port and you keep your lows. See what you can come up with that way, bet you can get to 14-15 cubes net... edit: this may already be how your port is going to look, i dont know how the whole shared wall thing in torres works, I never use it that way My Build Log: http://www.stevemead...-sundown-power/ Team NorthWestSPL
321slapinbass Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 Wall it haha or this. thats why I haven't done 4 15's yet because I don't want to go above the window line in the rear and thats hard to do with 4 15's ported. 2000 Dodge Durango Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm Mids + Highs - PRV Audio Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4 Headunit - Alpine CDE-100 Equalizer - Clarion EQS746 Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0 Alternator - Singer 250A 147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash 147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos
321slapinbass Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 what is your port orientation? I would try port across the bottom of the box and tune a bit higher around 34-35 (get some air space back from shorte port). If your port only has a height of 4-5 inches then you only need to be about 5-6 inches away from the tail gate. With the port loading like this your in car tuning will drop as well since the tail gate acts as an extension of the port and you keep your lows. See what you can come up with that way, bet you can get to 14-15 cubes net... edit: this may already be how your port is going to look, i dont know how the whole shared wall thing in torres works, I never use it that way yeah he wants the port across the bottom. the box I suggested has a port across the bottom that's 5" tall with 6" from the rear hatch. EDIT - check out post #13, I changed some things around 2000 Dodge Durango Subs - (2) SKAR VVX 15 D2's Box - 7.2 ft^3 @ 33hz, 120 in of port Sub amp - Digital Designs M2 @ .5 ohm Mids + Highs - PRV Audio Mids + Highs amp - Hifonics 2000.4 Headunit - Alpine CDE-100 Equalizer - Clarion EQS746 Batteries - Mopar group 27 + (2) C&D 52ah Wiring - 1/0 BIG 3, (2) runs 1/0 Alternator - Singer 250A 147.79 dB @ 35hz - burp - sealed on dash 147.47 dB @ 35hz - music - sealed on dash YOUTUBE: http://www.youtube.com/user/321slapinBass/videos
CleanSierra Posted May 14, 2013 Report Posted May 14, 2013 You have a shitload of cone area, you don't need to tune 30 to have astonishing lows, especially in an SUV. Tune to 35 and you'll be fine, unless you're looking for a wind machine, and if that's the case, you should be walling anyway. Anything over 12 cubes should be fine. A larger box definitely has the tendency to be more efficient, just start being careful if you plan to overpower your subs. More air equals less backpressure and less cone control. Your port area numbers look good though and the concept of what you're doing is sounding good too Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
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