Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??

[Dwn4BassAlan]

seriously though, I've probably used 3/4 of 1 can of "High Gloss" clear coat on this top plate, FOR JUST 1 SIDE. And it's not gleaming either, but it's acceptable.

Not crazy about the monstrously obvious glitter throughout the grey metallic paint I bought. It's less metallic and more Finger-Nail Polish like as far as sparkling goes......

Not gonna bother hitting the other side with more than a coat or 2. If I get home early enough I'll put them together tomorrow.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Ok, forget it. No matter how long I let it sit, even after 18 hours by air, 6 heated hours, and another 11 air dry, it's soft as baby dump. And the plate looks less like a subwoofer component and more like a Drag Queen's face wash rag, there's so much sparkly crap. So I hit it with a fat layer of chrome spray this morning, looked great. Gonna sand down the glitter bumps and hit it it with another layer when I get home to smooth it out. I would have removed the underlying paint, but it's the rustoleum I need, so I don't want to remove my only rust preventative.

There is so much clear coat on the top side that I can't see the tape covering the holes anymore.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

lol another paint update, since I know you're dying to hear about it.

But here it is anyways. I tried sanding it down to make it smooth for the chrome spray but it just kept scraping the paint, even with 280 grit on my fastest setting 11,000 rpm DRO Sander, it wouldn't work well enough. So I went to the depot and got some white primer, it's best for classic cars rust preventative (x2 as preventative as others). But then I had to remove all the old stuff, including all 93828976 layers of clear coat................... I was able to scrape off a surprising amount of it, and once I could get any more off I went to some JASCO lacquer thinner, even with nitrile gloves I swear my skin was burning. But it was taking so long and the scraping was marking up the plate and I didn't want to damage it so I went with the last bit of my gum spirits of turpentine, if anything could smell more toxic if would be illegal..... I must have inhaled it for 20 straight minutes even through my respirator....not my smartest move but since I never use it and I don't smoke I'm not worried. After about 6 hours of soaking I went at it with a wire brush, got most of it off, top side was still pretty bad, let it sir for another 45 mins and hit it again, got it all off, cleaned the plate off, dumped the poison, then about 10 minutes ago I just hit it with a heavy coat of the white primer. I'll hit it with a light coat before school, then chrome it when I get home.

I don't have any pics of the grey with the clear coat of course, but just imagine what I said earlier, a Drag Queens face wash rag. (e.g: sparkly/glittery AF)

Then after inhaling so many fumes, I didn't even think to re-cover the holes before I painted..............whatever though, NBD, I'm sure the tap will fix any clogs.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

im just gonna go for it, enough pussyfooting around it. I gotta get this thing done, balls to the wall time.

Ok so I went for it......................................and no, before you blow your load it's not on yet. The PVC is too thick for it to go at the end to be removable, so I'm going to cut it into 2 or 3 pieces of shim instead of just 1. But here's some pics of that painted top plate that I know you've been dying for

I'll put it on first thing tomorrow morning after I cut it at work. Then you guys can blow your loads. pervs.

[Mtnbikecrazy55]

Could have just painted the bolt holes and then tapped em out out once you were done, but fuck it, should be cool to see together.

Gotta take a video of the process for sure, good or bad ittl at least be interesting haha

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Could have just painted the bolt holes and then tapped em out out once you were done, but fuck it, should be cool to see together.

Gotta take a video of the process for sure, good or bad ittl at least be interesting haha

I thought about it, but then I realized that if I tap them after they risk forming rust over time and that's a crucial are since the bolts are there, so I only did the rust preventative primer inside, and then taped it before the chrome. I didn't primer the magnet base cutouts because I need the least amount of magnetic power lost, so every magnet to plate join is unadulterated for max power.

[Mtnbikecrazy55]

Hmm. I think a dab of anti-seize would have done the trick too but fuck it I'm sure ittl be all good

[purplesyrup]

/\ /\

[Dwn4BassAlan]

ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy ggggggggggggggoooooooooooooooossssssssssssssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

this STUPID ABS plastic is so annoying! It's just too thick but a few 1/10ths of an inch, the top plate squeezes the 2 halves, then it starts to basically bulge out / flare out even wider around the magnet pole, so the top plate can't fit around it! And I can't get it thinner, I tried sanding it, did nothing.

So I kept my promise of going for it, but it didn't work lol.

I need your help ASAP. How can I thin out the ABS pipe? I already cut it into 2 pieces but it won't work, the plastic just won't compress enough to let the top plate slide over. ANY IDEAS TO THIN IT OUT ARE NECESSARY. I've tried grease and WD-40 like crazy, won't budge once it hits the same spot, tried jumping with all my force onto the plate, won't move. The only way it will work is thinning it out. I have no pneumatic tools at home, so give me any of those suggestions by tonight and I can't use my boss's compressor tomorrow, otherwise give me something else I can use whenever.

This is the tube:

I ONLY NEED TO THIN OUT THE BOTTOM 5 INCHES, SO ANY IDEAS ARE WELCOME. PLEASE!!!!!!!!

[Krakin]

A planer might help out.

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