Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??

[Junior Russell]

Why is the most relevant topic right now concerning whether or not my wires should be connected or not? I hadn't planned on 8ga speaker wire, but even if I did and it mattered I could just cut them straight down the middle. I'm honestly not concerned with how the edge of my direct lead wiring looks compared to whether or not I can successfully keep this coil linear enough to keep it from literally destroying itself by catching an edge at 30 Hz or something, or maybe whether the spiders will hold together well enough........ you know, important things.

To be honest dude I thought every was just talking while we waited for more updates

As far as the other issue goes I honestly couldn't tell you dude sorry

[Dwn4BassAlan]

lol it's no problem, but lets focus on problems that actually affect the performance of the woofer, not the slight aesthetic elements.

I have other issues and questions I'd rather have whole pages devoted to instead of whether the lead wires should be joined at the seam or not......

Lets get the ideas rolling on those thheennnn we can focus on the looks.

[CortezDTV]

Should have made the gap bigger, you should be able to fit 3 pieces of film paper on each side otherwise it's just gonna rub/scratch/ etc

Also with a gap that tight if you have any odd shapes above or below (in front of or behind)the speaker the cone will disform and bend to conform to that shape, this can also cause the coil to rub

I would recommend shims as well

[STEvil]

Like I said, ceramic inserts, or some kind of coating.. because that bitch is going to rub lol

when you mean ceramic inserts, you mean like shims basically? really really thin shims that go on the inside of the VC?

you got a link or anything? and keep in mind these things would have to be THIN, I mean T.H.I.N. I can't fit 2 pieces of paper in there to keep it in perspective for you.

http://www.zircotecshop.com/ <-- not sure how well those specific ones will work, still digging for better ones.

Also I think you can get spray-on ceramic coatings that would work on the outside of the coil

edit

You should contact these guys and see if they would be willing to send you a sample http://www.nanotechuniversal.com/

more anti-friction stuff (mostly spray/paint-on) http://www.thomasnet.com/products/antifriction-coatings-95997144-1.html

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Should have made the gap bigger, you should be able to fit 3 pieces of film paper on each side otherwise it's just gonna rub/scratch/ etc

Also with a gap that tight if you have any odd shapes above or below (in front of or behind)the speaker the cone will disform and bend to conform to that shape, this can also cause the coil to rub

I would recommend shims as well

tthheerreeeeee it is.......dang though, I believe we made it 43 pages before someone told me what I should have done after it's already been finished.

As to the cone effect your talking about, that's why I'm doing multiple levels of spiders instead of one triple joint in efforts to increase linear motion, as well as using really stiff linear roll spiders compared to looser progressive roll spiders. If you will also notice, my coil is not very long throw like other high powered 18's that might need a gap slightly larger.

But most importantly, from the start, and repetitively throughout I have mentioned this is all about achieving maximum force from the motor. A tighter gap is obviously one of the most key factors when considering this.

[STEvil]

tight gap is fine, just coat it and the coil and keep an eye on them

[Junior Russell]

I think the nanotech stuff might be worth a shot dude just dip the coil in it up to the leads or just before and then start putting it together

Edit also what about di-electric grease?

Edit 2 my brother in law suggested 3m ptfe tape

[TNichy]

The di-electric grease would possibly just heat up and run off of the coil when it heated up, after some pounding.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

Like I said, ceramic inserts, or some kind of coating.. because that bitch is going to rub lol

when you mean ceramic inserts, you mean like shims basically? really really thin shims that go on the inside of the VC?

you got a link or anything? and keep in mind these things would have to be THIN, I mean T.H.I.N. I can't fit 2 pieces of paper in there to keep it in perspective for you.

http://www.zircotecshop.com/ <-- not sure how well those specific ones will work, still digging for better ones.

Also I think you can get spray-on ceramic coatings that would work on the outside of the coil

edit

You should contact these guys and see if they would be willing to send you a sample http://www.nanotechuniversal.com/

more anti-friction stuff (mostly spray/paint-on) http://www.thomasnet.com/products/antifriction-coatings-95997144-1.html

what do you think about ferrofluid? It's mainly noted for its anti-friction ability when applied to strong neodymium magnets. With enough of it in the gap, it might serve 2 positive purposes, increase heat handling, and reduce friction.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

I think the nanotech stuff might be worth a shot dude just dip the coil in it up to the leads or just before and then start putting it together

Edit also what about di-electric grease?

lol yeah I sent them an email, hopefully they're chill and send me something to try out.