Homemade Super-Neo Woofer: THE CHEVELLE RESTORATION IS DONE, dampener recommendations??

[Dwn4BassAlan]

can always fiberglass/resin the cone from behind if the front doesnt look like it would work or is treated with something that might keep resin from sticking.

If you get adventurous you could build your own flat-piston cone to allow more separation between spider levels for greater linearity ;

I would go with an AR cone, but it seems you've already made your choice. (Which is a fine choice as well.)

Also, on the coil & tight gap; have you ever looked around for a different coil, maybe one with the same ID, but a tiny bit smaller OD?

Cause as many different sized coils that's out there, I'd think you could find one that fit your gap better than the one you have. Just a thought.

An AR cone? sorry, I don't seem to recall quite what that is. The only thing relative to the thread that I associate with AR is the term Acoustic Research. fill a brother in on the lingo?

As far as the coil, I haven't been able to find many other quality coils that offer 8 layers of flat wound aluminum, a decent wind height, and the correct nominal impedance that will fit in the gap. The coil I have is supposedly 3.25" OD, and the only other coils that fit my other needs all have a OD of 3.30" so if anyone knows where I can get a coil that will better fit, I'm all ears. I emailed Precision Econowind twice before and never even got a response.

For your solo X build, if I may ask where you got those 8 layer coils? the black ones?

[Krakin]

AR = Aluminum Reinforced

[Dwn4BassAlan]

AR = Aluminum Reinforced

ahh.... I've only heard 1 aluminum cone (on a subwoofer) in real life, don't remember it too well but I thought I remember it being good on the lows, but sometimes it almost sounded peaky if that makes sense. It didn't sound bad or anything, I don't know quite how to describe it. I might be making it up in my head but either way I haven't seen 1 for sale yet that's for sure, also never studied it much. Only research sources I read up on show mostly pulp/paper/kevlar for subwoofers. Any link for aluminum cone sound reproduction benefits?

[Krakin]

Not full aluminum.

Like this:

**From PurpleHaze

[Krakin]

You can check out these links for some info on diaphragm materials:

http://www.stonessoundstudio.com.au/stone/diy_speaker_info/diy_driver_types_p3.htm

http://www.audiovoice-acoustics.com/forum/showthread.php?t=999

[Purplehaze]

can always fiberglass/resin the cone from behind if the front doesnt look like it would work or is treated with something that might keep resin from sticking.

If you get adventurous you could build your own flat-piston cone to allow more separation between spider levels for greater linearity ;

I would go with an AR cone, but it seems you've already made your choice. (Which is a fine choice as well.)

Also, on the coil & tight gap; have you ever looked around for a different coil, maybe one with the same ID, but a tiny bit smaller OD?

Cause as many different sized coils that's out there, I'd think you could find one that fit your gap better than the one you have. Just a thought.

An AR cone? sorry, I don't seem to recall quite what that is. The only thing relative to the thread that I associate with AR is the term Acoustic Research. fill a brother in on the lingo?

As far as the coil, I haven't been able to find many other quality coils that offer 8 layers of flat wound aluminum, a decent wind height, and the correct nominal impedance that will fit in the gap. The coil I have is supposedly 3.25" OD, and the only other coils that fit my other needs all have a OD of 3.30" so if anyone knows where I can get a coil that will better fit, I'm all ears. I emailed Precision Econowind twice before and never even got a response.

For your solo X build, if I may ask where you got those 8 layer coils? the black ones?

Yes sir, as stated, the AR - Aluminum Reinforced. It is 2 layers with a honeycomb aluminum middle layer, all pressed together. It keeps the cone relatively light, but very sturdy. Several manufactures are using them now, like DC for example. And I can't say where my coils are from on here, as I was asked to "keep it off the forums". But hit me up, and I'll fill you in. I'm pretty sure they have what you need.

And if not, Krakin's idea seems like the only other answer in my opinion. And maybe the best way to go honestly, IDK?

But hit me up and I'll see if I can help you out.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

lol yeah I know they're not full aluminum, I just mean that all the cones I see online, for sale/in papers are either pressed/unpressed paper/pulp/kevlar and composite, at least for subwoofers. I have a few speakers with the aluminum cones, they were really annoying to separate from the triple joint when I was trying to rip some old speaker motors out when I started the physics project last year, started tearing and all that. So I don't know much about them in woofer applications, my only kinda wonder is this; can the aluminum pick up the heat coming off the VC and the former and start to become more flexible, in-turn being more susceptible to being out of phase? Just curious about it, it might be too insignificant to matter anyway. So if I understand is it considered to be more efficient and perform better than paper and pulp kevlar cones?

[STEvil]

No, the aluminum needs to reach absurd temperatures to become more flexible.

[Dwn4BassAlan]

No, the aluminum needs to reach absurd temperatures to become more flexible.

Even at that thinness? Impressive.

Aluminum is really fascinating. Sometimes it seems really weak, like the jig I have, bends like a pancake. But then double it's thickness and make it a hollow tube and it can tow a 300lb fat guy wakeboarding across the most friction-inducing water in the world like it ain't nothing.

Maybe if I need a recone I'll grab an aluminum one. But for now I want to try the unpressed kevlar pulp one, I hope it can make really nice low transitions smoothly.

[STEvil]

No, the aluminum needs to reach absurd temperatures to become more flexible.

Even at that thinness? Impressive.

Aluminum is really fascinating. Sometimes it seems really weak, like the jig I have, bends like a pancake. But then double it's thickness and make it a hollow tube and it can tow a 300lb fat guy wakeboarding across the most friction-inducing water in the world like it ain't nothing.

Maybe if I need a recone I'll grab an aluminum one. But for now I want to try the unpressed kevlar pulp one, I hope it can make really nice low transitions smoothly.

Unless you start making a metal close to red hot you usually havent reached the point where you are causing strength/ductile changes. By the time you get to that point the rest of the non-metal parts will have burned away.