Jessica Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Your gain is more than likely too high and it sounds like you are pulling too much current as N8 said and your fuse and/or power ground wire is too small or CCA. CVR subs are not the most efficient either they tend to be hard on an amp. You are using a 50 amp fuse in line on your power wire on an amp that has 90 amps of fusing. If you fuses pop its usually a short but if you are melting fuses its because you are pulling too much current or your fuse holder is shit and introducing resistance causing heat. No...it can't be high because I just used DMM this morning to do 40hz test tone 1800W square roots 2 Ohms = 60 voltage but according to DMM stays at 60.8 volume at 32 out of 50 but I'm not going any further 32 volume only less 30 for safety to keep current flowing. I think the amp fuse is for power based on 4 gauge = needs 60A it came with the wiring kit. I don't risk going over it. Also according to this site http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm I did some math and it says need 30A amperage which is way over the limit. How do you know how many amps the amplifier is putting out without a clamp meter? You could have box rise and be seeing 2ohms or you could be seeing 11ohms. You can't set gains with just a volt meter. And you are doing it wrong if you are trying to get 1800 watts. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BoomZoom808 Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I use Rockford 4 ga OFC and I have a 150 amp fuse inline. If your fuse holder is bad or your wire not adequate for the current draw adding a second battery will just make the fuse melt faster. You need to test the resistance at the fuse holder because that is where it is melting. If there is no resistance beyond the normal nominal resistance in the wire the fuse should not melt. 2010 Mazda 3s 2.5L Pioneer DEH-X9600BHS Knu OFC 1/0 SS Platinum AGM / XS Power XP750 Alpine PDX F-4 / Morel Maximo 5 + Coax 5 IA 10.1 / SSA XCON 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 I use Rockford 4 ga OFC and I have a 150 amp fuse inline. If your fuse holder is bad or your wire not adequate for the current draw adding a second battery will just make the fuse melt faster. You need to test the resistance at the fuse holder because that is where it is melting. If there is no resistance beyond the normal nominal resistance in the wire the fuse should not melt. This^ On your power wire from your battery to your amp you fuse for the wire, not the amp. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wowfun2 Posted June 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Your gain is more than likely too high and it sounds like you are pulling too much current as N8 said and your fuse and/or power ground wire is too small or CCA. CVR subs are not the most efficient either they tend to be hard on an amp. You are using a 50 amp fuse in line on your power wire on an amp that has 90 amps of fusing. If you fuses pop its usually a short but if you are melting fuses its because you are pulling too much current or your fuse holder is shit and introducing resistance causing heat. No...it can't be high because I just used DMM this morning to do 40hz test tone 1800W square roots 2 Ohms = 60 voltage but according to DMM stays at 60.8 volume at 32 out of 50 but I'm not going any further 32 volume only less 30 for safety to keep current flowing. I think the amp fuse is for power based on 4 gauge = needs 60A it came with the wiring kit. I don't risk going over it. Also according to this site http://www.sengpielaudio.com/calculator-ohm.htm I did some math and it says need 30A amperage which is way over the limit. How do you know how many amps the amplifier is putting out without a clamp meter? You could have box rise and be seeing 2ohms or you could be seeing 11ohms. You can't set gains with just a volt meter. And you are doing it wrong if you are trying to get 1800 watts. I was doing wrong I decided to do some remath and put out 1000 watts save me 800 watts left so basically I tuned it to 44.7 voltage instead of 60. I obvipusly know that 1800W isn't that power getting because I'm getting 900 RMS at 2 Ohms... stable! 2 12 Kickers CVR | Kenwood 9105D @ 2 Ohms | Box tuned 39 hertz low custom | Nissan Maxima 01 SE 3.5 | I have no idea what my dB at "If you hear me Booming around the block then you better be prepared to call the police on me before I drive-by your house!" "Boom cars so goddamn loud it ridiculous, hey excuse me what about your fartcan back of your car vroom, vroom!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted June 5, 2013 Report Share Posted June 5, 2013 Ok, im done here. You don't want to do it right, and you think you can just set your voltage wherever the hell you like regardless of what the amp is rated for without any regfard for if you are clipping or not. Everything you need to know is in this thread, read it again. I know we have a Kranny rule, but I am not going to just talk to hear myself speak. Good luck with your amp. Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wowfun2 Posted June 6, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Ok, im done here. You don't want to do it right, and you think you can just set your voltage wherever the hell you like regardless of what the amp is rated for without any regfard for if you are clipping or not. Everything you need to know is in this thread, read it again. I know we have a Kranny rule, but I am not going to just talk to hear myself speak. Good luck with your amp. Sorry... I'm just not an audio expertise but getting there lol. So how am I suppose to get exactly right wattage then? Did you say I would need a capacitor also? I know that my fuses on amp is perfectly fine but the fuse inline holder power wire did got blown out well I think it melted it because it didn't snapped out.. Here the picture Yes... it looks fine but according to the DMM it was showing nothing... kinda odd. Again... sorry if I wasn't listening it I was just trying get this bastard to work... but for now it works just don't want it happen to again in the future. 2 12 Kickers CVR | Kenwood 9105D @ 2 Ohms | Box tuned 39 hertz low custom | Nissan Maxima 01 SE 3.5 | I have no idea what my dB at "If you hear me Booming around the block then you better be prepared to call the police on me before I drive-by your house!" "Boom cars so goddamn loud it ridiculous, hey excuse me what about your fartcan back of your car vroom, vroom!" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n8ball2013 Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 Your amp will never do 1800 watts its a 900 watt amp. Thats only been said how many times now THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tarball Posted June 6, 2013 Report Share Posted June 6, 2013 As stated you will never see "peak wattage rating". Also, there are continuously variable conditions that effect the output of your speakers and amp, it's dynamic. When you speakers start to move everything changes, what happens at one frequency varies from what happens at another. Adjust your gains properly Do Big 3 Get a decent battery Replace your melted fuse holder Avoid Clipping CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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