Kyblack76 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Yep... I chose to redo a piece. A piece that was just glued, and set. It took 3 men, and a lil boy to get that fucking piece down...... I was amazed how strong the bond was......... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 to me screws are just a better choice. the thread bites into the wood and holds on. Yup, because weakening the wood around the screw is always better, even if you pre drill. Ive seen lots of glued and screwed boxes fail due to wood splitting where the screw is. So if you do screw it is a MUST to remove them, and fine a great solid filler that will bond to the wood, not just fill the hole. Otherwise just a little bit of box flex can have horrid results! When ever I think of a stapled box, I think prefab, no wood glue, and just silicon to seal it together with almost no strength to the box what so ever. I only had 1 box fail me on a glue joint ever, and that was because I was cheap and bought Elmers WoodGlue Max due to it being on sale, and much cheaper. Never again!!! I always use Titebond3, usually buy it buy the gallons, or 32oz containers. I like the 3 because it has a lot of open time compared to 1 and 2, and it also has a stronger bond iirc, and passes higher water resistant standards. Main reason being the longer open time tho since I spread glue evenly when Im doubling baffles, or spread it along the panel that is to be glued. I dont relay on wood/clamp pressure alone to spread the glue. As for nails, I use 18gauge brads, 1 5/8 inch for most construction, and 1 1/4inch for doubling panels, so nails dont poke out the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterbusa2 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 ^ This guy makes me decide im using brads from now on but what about doing a wall? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 to me screws are just a better choice. the thread bites into the wood and holds on. Yup, because weakening the wood around the screw is always better, even if you pre drill. Ive seen lots of glued and screwed boxes fail due to wood splitting where the screw is. So if you do screw it is a MUST to remove them, and fine a great solid filler that will bond to the wood, not just fill the hole. Otherwise just a little bit of box flex can have horrid results! When ever I think of a stapled box, I think prefab, no wood glue, and just silicon to seal it together with almost no strength to the box what so ever. I only had 1 box fail me on a glue joint ever, and that was because I was cheap and bought Elmers WoodGlue Max due to it being on sale, and much cheaper. Never again!!! I always use Titebond3, usually buy it buy the gallons, or 32oz containers. I like the 3 because it has a lot of open time compared to 1 and 2, and it also has a stronger bond iirc, and passes higher water resistant standards. Main reason being the longer open time tho since I spread glue evenly when Im doubling baffles, or spread it along the panel that is to be glued. I dont relay on wood/clamp pressure alone to spread the glue. As for nails, I use 18gauge brads, 1 5/8 inch for most construction, and 1 1/4inch for doubling panels, so nails dont poke out the other side. you make a good point about the screws, i myself haven't had mdf split on me yet but i have had friends with that issue. so if deciding to use screws once the box sits and the glue dries for about a days time take the screws out and fill the wholes with a good wood filler. as for wood fillers what would you suggest? i have always just used wood glue and mixed in some saw dust. then i get it into the holes the best i can. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 I have always used wood screws due to reliability, on bigger builds such as 4 15's brads not a good option? ^ This guy makes me decide im using brads from now on but what about doing a wall? Same thhing, brads all the time. now if your making a 2by4 cage, then screws would be logical. Size does not matter. Here is a box that i built, which is still sitting in my garage because it needs to be finished paint wise. Bought 7 sheets of mdf for the box, used up almost all of it, minus some small cut off scraps, and holes where woofers go. It has a 3 layer top baffle, 2 layers around the sides with a 3rd layer for extra support, 45s in all corners, and a double layer bottom. All exterior corners have pre formed MDF round overs too, this box is a tank, for 4-18s. I have almost 6 full 32oz bottles of woodglue in the box, a few gallons of resin sanded super smooth, and its on the 2nd galllon of paint. Its currently being wetsanding so it can get another coat, then spraying clear coat on it It is easily pushing 600pounds, and not a single screw is used (except to mount the woofers when its finished), all brad nails and wood glue. This is my buddy standing next to it, he is 6foot8inches (also who Im building it for). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterbusa2 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Thats a big man! lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 so since i dont have acces to brads or a staples ( at least nothing that would push deep enough into mdf ) i can use a few wood screws to help clamp it together but i should take the screws out and fill the holes on once the wood glue is all dried up. then resin the inside of the box. would adding some fiberglass mat to the corners help make sure the box will hold together or would it not really be needed? t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
masterbusa2 Posted June 15, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 This is turning into a more informative thread than I thought Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 Im also a heavy fan of the loctite 8x tube glue. That shit is proving to be VICIOUS also. Im using it on my wall, where a thicker material doesnt all run away... and on the sides where i stacked my 2x4s. That shit like TBII or III is mid FUCKING evil at bonding.... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted June 15, 2013 Report Share Posted June 15, 2013 always looking for more info. i have came a long way compared to a year ago when i was building the suggested boxes from the manufacturer and countless other things that was holding me back. this forum has so much info on it. just have to look for it. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.