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Posted

I actually think it would take more heat to start a fire on wood then plastic. But I couldnt be rocking a piece of wood in my ride lol.

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Posted (edited)

wrong thread hate IE

Edited by n8ball2013

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted
and the heat wouldve kept rising if he didnt shut it off. then the wood would catch fire. idea=stupid.

Well it works fine for me, this is after checking all connections tighten them all and such. Plus its a lot cheaper that buy a fuse block, I'm sure everyones got some scrap MDF layin' around !!!!!

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Posted

It's the fuse holder that's causing it probably... we use ANL ones like that at work and if you don't put them together in the right order they loosen up and melt like that. I had one come back and the garage manager put his new holder together in a different order and he hasn't been back since(this was like 6months ago)... what order are you puttign the washers/nuts on?

-Installer for Duke's Car Stereo

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune.

RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4

Boston Acoustics SPG 555

Kenwood eXcelon 995

RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s

Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000

Posted

his is the base nut thats on permanently, then washer, ring terminal, lock washer, fuse, washer, then nut. Thats how I do all my Stinger fuse holders and I havent had any problems..

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Posted

I dont see what order puttint it together in would make a difference. The fuse always goes in last. I had this happen to me once. I dont know what caused it. I just know it happened. Only things I could think of is moisture on the connections and fuse. loose fuse bouncing causing it to arc. Loose connections causing extra heat.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

Posted (edited)
should go fuse, washer, lock washer, then nut. thats how you ALWAYS do it.

I thought it was ring terminal on bottom, nut, fuse, washer, lock washer, then nut? atleast that's how we do it.

*edit* just noticed the nut is fixed on the bottom, so ignore ring terminal on bottom.

I'd almost be willing to bet money this is your problem... because you have it going nut, washer, ring terminal, lock washer, fuse, washer, and nut.

Edited by Shyne151

-Installer for Duke's Car Stereo

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune.

RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4

Boston Acoustics SPG 555

Kenwood eXcelon 995

RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s

Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000

Posted
his is the base nut thats on permanently, then washer, ring terminal, lock washer, fuse, washer, then nut. Thats how I do all my Stinger fuse holders and I havent had any problems..

refer to chevyboy ^^...

-Installer for Duke's Car Stereo

2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune.

RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4

Boston Acoustics SPG 555

Kenwood eXcelon 995

RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s

Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000

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