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Bracing my MDF box ?


momofx76

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hey karkov i did it cuz im running lots of power and well i just wanted mines to be as solid as can be. i added more resin with some matt so its pretty solid. u can use all thread if you would like, it will certainty keep the box from flexing at maximum volumes, but u dont need as many. if you dont wanna go that route, use resin with fiberglass matt it will be just as strong and u will be good.

REFF'S
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EBAY
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I love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.

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Not trying to argue but if Resin alone dries hard then if it's applied to inside and outside of box to seal it then why wouldn't it reinforce it somewhat? Even if it's only the slightest bit. I'm not suggesting adding it to reinforce alone but if sealing the box with it anyways I would feel after it dried hard that it would take more pressure to flex the sides of a sub box than without it. Maybe it doesn't do enough to matter?

Granted it would never take the place of actual bracing whatever you you might choose.

EDIT:

My sub box is 90% done, below is a link to the thread of the design of it. Used 3/4" MDF and running 4 - 15" RF T2 subs. Would you guys recommend threaded rod bracing front to back and side to side for my box or do you think it's not needed? My box seems Very similar to the pics. posted above is why I am asking.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170750-custom-box-4-15-tahoehelp/

Resin has little to no linear strength (flat surface). It's strength is in curves. It's like rebar and concrete. Rebar is super strong when being pulled but extremely weak when compressed while concrete is extremely weak when stretched but extremely strong when compressed. Even though concrete is super hard it has no real strength when laid out flat that's why side walks and driveways crack so easily. Adding resin to the inside of a box is like making a driveway of just concrete, it makes the surface smooth but doesn't add any strength that the ground (wood in this case) under it doesn't already have.

resin is like the concrete not the rebar.

technically resin carries no strength. it is simply the bonding material for the glass mat. hence why fiberglass projects with as little resin to mat ratio are the strongest and less likely to crack in the long run.

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knowledge I did mine similar to your pics and double braced some panels with the allthread. I can already tell there is a definate difference now compared to before. Thanks for the pics man!

What difference(s) did you see per say?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

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Low end sounds more cleaner to me and as for the spl, I will let u know when I get metered again. Last was around 152db ...

pics of ur setup and how u braced it man?

REFF'S
My link
EBAY
http://feedback.ebay...ck&myworld=true
I love car audio so much because I will never be done. I can never win, and I will never get it finished or perfect. It always has me coming back for more, I can never get my fill of it, but I get what I need.

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