TheMonolith2001 Posted August 31, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2013 Found some better pics here: http://www.maxdat.eu/_car%20amplifiers2/_car%20amplifiers2_p.html Not chrome edition but I imagine it is the same. (EDIT: It looks to be the same as what I posted before but better quality) Does anyone have any idea what the subsonic filter is set to on this amp? I have it run in full mode with my head unit doing the crossing over and it definitely does not play as low as my ZR1000 did. I am going to set it to lowpass mode tomorrow and see if it makes any difference but it probably won't. I will also try highpass and setting the frequency ridiculously low. Kind of makes me want to put the ZR1000 back in honestly it's a pretty big difference. The amp rocks though, very very clean. If I make something with a higher tuning later I would definitely use it for that if I cannot resolve this! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Put it on the mids and highs. i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Your's is the same as my PPI PC2350 just a little older model. The chrome series should have clear plexi bottom's to them. My 2350 did damn near rated but it was a weird amp when Meade had it on the AD-1. It had 2kw+ at a 2 ohm bridge when it was tested on dynamic but would protect in the other modes. Still not a bad amp at all for its age. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big dee Posted September 3, 2013 Report Share Posted September 3, 2013 Omg bro! That's a sweet ass amp! I wish cl around here had amps like this being posted up for sale Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Put it on the mids and highs. Holy crap. This thing sitting next to my ZR1000 + use my existing front amp to do something with rear speakers would make one hell of a sexy amp rack. How would I properly set this up? Could I just use that "set your gain with DMM" chart to achieve an 80 watt output? With the gain set so low would this effect electrical very little? I want to make sure my electrical can handle this as well as not blow up my speakers! BTW tried setting the crossover to lowpass and as expected it did nothing to override subsonic filter. I will try the highpass idea still but it probably won't do anything either. How can I determine what it is actually set to? Could I hook my DMM up to it (Good quality Fluke True RMS DMM btw) and play tones decreasing 1hz at a time and see where it starts dropping off or something? I probably wouldn't get an exact number this way but it seems like I could get a good estimate. I have a feeling there would be no filter on the RCA outs which would be a lot easier/more accurate. Oh and the bottom is not clear. It is black metal. It may have only been on the first version of the 21400. The difference between V1 and V2 according to the manual is V1 has extra control over how the bass boost works (You select a center frequency AND width as opposed to just a center) and V2 replaces that button with a knob for more control over how the crossover works. (You can select a crossover point now instead of being stuck at 90.) Speaking of bass boost. I played with it a little bit just for fun and set it to the 44hz option, with just a few clicks on the knob it seems to increase bass below 44hz quite a bit. Not really the way I want to solve my subsonic problem though. That is one hell of a dangerous bass boost knob though. You can select a center of either 30, 36, 44, or 60hz and then apply 18dB of boost. Goddamn. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kickass audio Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 For your freq adjust when you turn it does it click? If it does that means it has detents and each detent will represent another frequency that you can use for high or low pass. If you have no freq knob on the amp then you are probably defaulting to a 80 or 90Hz high or lowpass depending which you select. Can you give me a shot of the side of your amp so I can see which adjustments you have? Also you do not want to do the DMM method for setting your gains, it is not accurate and can lead to clipping. Also do NOT use the qbass, bass boost is bad in itself and these amps can give 18db of boost which is very bad. Where are you located? If you are near me we can meet up sometime and I can help you set the amp with my DD-1 and CC-1. 2004 GMC Envoy1 XS power S3400 batt under the hood and 4 XS Power D3100's battery installed in the rear by the amps0 gauge power wire from front to backAlpine iva-w205 touchscreen dvd/cd/mp3/ipod/am/fm/gps headunitSundown Audio SAX-200.4 amp for my mids and highs8 gauge speaker wire from amp to woofer270 amp Mechman AltRockford Fosgate T1652-s component speakersRockford Fosgate 3Sixty.2 sound processorRca's from Rockford Fosgate and Monster Cable14 gauge speaker wire for the mids and highs1 18" Ascendant Audio SMD Dual 1 ohm with custom Black & Blue carbon fiber and hand signed dustcapBox: 5.66 cubic feet net volume box tuned to 30.13Hz with 1.5" wide wooden dowels and 1.5" thick baffle1 DC Audio 5.0k amp wired to .5 ohms nominal with an imp rise of 1.35 ohms for the single AA SMD 18"Future Vision 8000k 50w bi-xenon projector HID's with 4300k 35w fog lightsLink to my build: Buildupdates/progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 It does have clicks. The last page in the manual tells you what each clicks frequency is. I tried the really low highpass idea and that didn't work either which I expected anyway. So for now I have the internal crossover disabled and I am letting my headunit do the crossing over. The side of my amp looks like this one: I have already set the gain with an oscilloscope, but thanks for the offer. The reason why I was asking about the dmm method is for if I used this amp on my mids/highs. I wanted to set the gain where it would be putting out around 80 watts instead of it's full power. It shouldn't be clipping at all there. I was just playing around with the qbass because my previous amp didn't have a bass boost. I used it for about 20 seconds - I don't plan on permanently using it. I wasn't being stupid with it I tried it out at a pretty low volume. I am interested to hook it back up to the oscope to see just how far you can push it before it starts clipping though. You know...for science. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KMS Posted September 5, 2013 Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 I will get the good camera and take some pics, but the serial/warranty seal is still intact, I would rather not open it up. Here is someone else's opened up though! Uploaded with ImageShack.us Whoaaaaaaaaaaaaa, that's the cleanest layout on an amp I've ever seen. Alpine PDX-V9 Morel Tempo 6 Alpine SBR-S8-4 Alpine CDE 149BT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Yeah, there is a lot of stuff going on in there for sure. I was surprised they where able to keep it all so symmetrical. I was also impressed with how there is pretty much zero wasted space. So I just opened up one of the tracks I remember using as a demo with the ZR1000 for low bass in Audacity. The low low part seems to be 31hz. This track is definitely not nearly as loud with this amp as it was with the ZR1000. When I set my gains because of what I discovered in another thread I used multiple tones with my oscilloscope. 30hz, 35hz, 40hz, 45hz, 50hz, 60hz, 65hz, 70hz, 75hz, and 80hz. I first set it with 30hz as high as I could go without clipping and then just went through the tracks and verified that I wasn't clipping on any of those other frequencies either. Seeing as how I have maximized output at 30hz that 31hz part of the song should be just as loud if not louder than the ZR1000 but it is not. Is it possible that what I am dealing with is in fact not a subsonic filter at all but instead that this amp clips at lower frequencies faster than the ZR1000? This in turn meaning the real advantage to using this amp instead of the ZR1000 would be more output at higher frequencies like 35-40-45hz instead of lower ones like 25-30hz? It seems like I do have less output overall with my gains set this way because I can hear my door speakers through the bass much better now even on songs with higher bass around 40-45hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted September 5, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2013 Ran out of time - gotta head out of the house, but I did manage to at least put the qbass knob to the test with the oscope. It failed miserably! At lower volumes if you only use a couple notches its not bad (3db of boost is still a lot of boost!), but distortion starts kicking in pretty bad pretty soon. If your playing full tilt use even one notch and your clipping. Garbage! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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