audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 CFM is key, learned that while searching for my new compressor to get away from my pancake that Ive used for years. Why they recommend a higher cfm then the tool needs is due to the draw your tool needs, plus the draw on the tank refilling at the same time. Everything else advertised such as psi and tank size is meaningless, and a buyer beware type deal. Think of CFM as RMS wattage, and PSI and tank size as PEAK wattage advertised on Sony amps at walmart. This is a easy way for you to think of it. Another thing is, just because the compressor has not kicked in yet, but theres still XXX psi in the tank, but your too is slowing down and working improper is usuallly due to the regulator set point, or what PSI it will turn on/off at. Sometimes this is adjustable but on a lot of big box store compressors its usually disabled, or its missing all together. On mine the set screw is full of what looks like epoxy so you dont go tampering. What I found was the best source of information was an autobody forum, where these guys tax the compressors daily with airtools and paint sprayers. Ill try to find some of the threads I read before figuring out what I need and give me a slight overhead without buying to big or too small for my needs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 This was one of the threads that was pretty useful. Tho a couple guys started bickering back and forth on theories and thought whoa is this a car audio forum? Guess us audio enthusiasts are not the only ones that do that. LOL but they start breaking it down in with like a 150psi compressor vs a 135psi compressor cfm at the same psi or something like that, and cooling the air between stage1 of a 2 stage compressor vs a single stage. http://autobodystore.com/forum/showthread.php?8276-air-compressors-single-stage-vs-two-stage iirc my 60gallon portercable can only do 11.5cfm at 90psi, but that is about double of what I need, and dont do much wrenching, tho I can finally use my bluepoint air ratchet I had for years and never really used. LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 from my understanding cfm is a measurement of how fast your pump puts air back into the tank. not anything to do with what comes out? But it is, when your taxing your compressor to the point that your running low on air pressure in the tank, that cfm being made is going to be keeping your tool running when your reserve air in the tank is depleted. As I prevviously posted, that higher CFM is recommended to keep your tools running and fill your tank at the same time. again car audio use for compressor parts because they fit so well. Think of the tank as your battery rack, think of your air tool as an amplifier, and think of the alternator as the air compressor pump. once your amp sucks your battery dead and you have a bad voltage drop of 12 volts full tilt, but its not getting any lower then 12 volts because your now relying on that alternators power, which is keeping your stereo going. Shameless video plug here But in my truck going fulltilt for a few minutes dropped my voltage down to 11.X volts, thats with 2 d3100 batteries in the rear (one of which leaks acid) and 3 DC Power alts, 2 Sundown SAZ-4500 amps wired at .35each Granted the lack of battery reserve the truck would still play music at 154-155db with said voltage drop, and the amps continuously drawing over 600amps of dc current each. The voltage drop was bad, my reserve was bad, but the alts kept it going strong, and the voltage never dropped below that 11.X volts under load. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2pcVP7b3HvA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 So then I don't need a bigger compressor then? I just won't be able to run the tools for extended periods? Does that mean the problem is elsewhere? What were you saying before about the regulator? I set it at 90 psi. Is there a trick to setting them or something? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 I guess I used the wrong word. Its not the regulator, but the pressure switch, which is what turns the compressor on when it reaches XXXPSI, and turns it back off at XXX psi. Most big box store units trigger at about 105psi, and turn off around 135-150psi. But the thing here is the gauge on the tank is often a cheaper psi gauge and not 100% accurate compared to the unit on the regulator (if you have a regulator you had to buy separately and not included with the tank). In all honestly, a lot of these big box store compressors are the same, just different colors with different stickers, made buy the same company and re-badged like amps... LOL Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Also I guess before you go spending more money, or returning shit. Take your impact, and goto a local mechanics shop, or tire shop. Someplace you know is going to have a nice compressor, and just ask if you can plug in your impact quick to see if its your compressor thats not spinning it properly or if its the impact itself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 .... Toss the regulator. You need more pressure, thats all. We run all our stuff 110-175psi. Regulators are for things like plasma cutters MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
toytrkdrvr Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 Your impact gun is bypassing air. Find the receipt and take it back or take the end cap off the back and check the rotor/rotor blades and the hammer assembly.. The blades should fit in the grooves with no resistance, IF they stick in the rotor, it will bypass air. The hammer section should rotate smoothly, Your compressor is fine for occasional use. You should be able to do most lug nuts. It wont have enough air pressure even when the tank is full to take off the tightest fasteners(axle nuts/pinion nuts), but then that gun wont have the strength for it either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted August 28, 2013 Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 .... Toss the regulator. You need more pressure, thats all. We run all our stuff 110-175psi. Regulators are for things like plasma cutters Im thinking his regulator is one of those built onto the tanks that comes with the unit, not one of the nicer stand a lone type deals that filter out water, add oil to your air tools etc. So tossing it maybe more hassle, and maybe just easier to open it all the way up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted August 28, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2013 .... Toss the regulator. You need more pressure, thats all. We run all our stuff 110-175psi. Regulators are for things like plasma cutters Im thinking his regulator is one of those built onto the tanks that comes with the unit, not one of the nicer stand a lone type deals that filter out water, add oil to your air tools etc. So tossing it maybe more hassle, and maybe just easier to open it all the way up. Ok cool. I exchanged the gun at home depot. It may have been faulty, who knows. New one doesn't leak oil out the front, so that's an improvement. Got home, oiled it, opened the regulator all the way and HEY PRESTO. It worked This is a bit more what I was expecting out of some air tools. Looks like I may be keeping them after all! Thanks for the help everyone! ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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