Sergeant_Skyrim Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 Alright, so I didn't really know how to word this but this isn't what you think. I have nothing on except for the dash lights so that you can see my gauges and see when I hit past 800 rpms to turn the alternator on. I've got a 235 amp Singer alt with the smallest pulley available. I've had it for a while but only recently started looking into electrical issues because of my XP3000 dying recently as some of you may remember. Well it's fine, and is still sitting in my apartment at 13v even. That being said, I recently got my VM-1 and keep it in the car to check voltage while I'm delivering pizzas every now and then as I haven't figured out mounting location yet. So all I've got in my car atm is the Interstate battery under the hood and the 235a alt. Don't really know how to describe the issue so here's a video of what happens when the car is on but no accessories or anything are: Build in progress
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 Yeah that's not too great on your batteries to be doing that lol. It almost looks like your alt isn't spinning fast enough to turn on at idle ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
meade916 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 The alternator is clearly not charging until a certain rpm. My older 300+a alternators used to do that back when i ran the old brand. At a stop light i would be lucky to see 11v, but as soon as i took off, it was good. My current alts (new brand) don't do that and they are 350's. Call Singer, he should be able to take care of the problem for you! All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916
Nikitaaa Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 Had the same problem with my Singer alt. Me and him tried everything and nothing fixed the problem. Ended up saying f-it. This isny worth killing my batteries at idle and threw my stock back in. Later on, bought a DC power and the alt turned at idle with a normal size pulley while Singer didn't even turn with the smallest you can fit. Asked Singer about it and he said it was something to do with the DC power using more expensive hairpin technology or something of the sort. 2007 M/T Honda Civic Coupe EX (4) Sundown Audio X-8's (2) Ampere Audio 3800.1's (3) Stinger SPV-44 Batteries (1) Mechman 240 3:1 Ratio 4th order sealed from the trunkTEAM NWSPLBest termlab scores to date in Honda trunk:151.7db legal (official) IASCA trunk 3 classBest termlab scores to date in my walled Subie:152.9db legal (unofficial) IASCA advanced 2 class155db outlaw
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Posted August 30, 2013 That's the thing though, I have contacted Singer previously (have had this alt for a long time now, maybe close to a year and a half or so?) and was told that it's not spinning fast enough to turn on until I hit around 800 rpms. I really didn't know much about anything at all when I ordered the alt since it was one of my first audio purchases so I didn't even think to tell him that my 2.2L Ecotech idles at 400-500 rpm. He's already hooked me up with the smallest pulley available as well as the external regulator to charge a little higher, but I'm basically wondering if there's anything I can do myself to solve this problem. I will be emailing him right now, meant to do that when I posted here and am in no way bashing the alt. I understand that it needs to spin fast enough to turn on and all and man oh man does this thing put out when it's on. I'm guessing there's not much I can do by myself? Build in progress
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Posted August 30, 2013 Had the same problem with my Singer alt. Me and him tried everything and nothing fixed the problem. Ended up saying f-it. This isny worth killing my batteries at idle and threw my stock back in. Later on, bought a DC power and the alt turned at idle with a normal size pulley while Singer didn't even turn with the smallest you can fit. Asked Singer about it and he said it was something to do with the DC power using more expensive hairpin technology or something of the sort. Yeah I was checking out Mechman's site as well and looked at a few of the different type alts. Noticed there were graphs showing what they all did at certain RPMs and noticed they had one for low idling vehicles. Thinking I may need to switch alts for now until I can figure out a dual alt config for my Cav Build in progress
SnowDrifter Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 Yeah man you have a LOW idle. That's not typical of most cars and manufacturers don't usually design around that. You could also get a larger crank pulley ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444
meade916 Posted August 30, 2013 Report Posted August 30, 2013 best thing you can do is go at it old school style. When sitting at a light, put it in neutral and put your foot on the gas. At least at night time. In the day time, sitting at a light with some voltage drop prob won't hurt anything. Keep the beat down until you are moving. All SMD products + MORE available at my store here! https://wccaraudio.com/ Subscribe to My Youtube Channel! Over 1,000,000 subscribers strong! Turn on your notifications! http://www.youtube.com/meade916 Follow My Instagram! Daily live feeds from the shop, exclusive content way before it hits my Youtube channel...and little squares with photo's in them http://www.instagram.com/meade916 The Official SMD Facebook fan Page https://www.facebook.com/SteveMeadeDesigns/ Follow my Tweet (Twitter) http://www.Twitter.com/meade916
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Posted August 30, 2013 best thing you can do is go at it old school style. When sitting at a light, put it in neutral and put your foot on the gas. At least at night time. In the day time, sitting at a light with some voltage drop prob won't hurt anything. Keep the beat down until you are moving. Yeah, I've been doing that for a while now with the whole neutral and on the gas. Only problem is I deliver pizzas and have to drive on a college campus for classes so I get like 20mpg in a 32mpg car xD I have everything completely unhooked right now and only have my 2 stock front door speakers playing at the moment though LOL, no more taking chances with any equipment Build in progress
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted August 30, 2013 Author Report Posted August 30, 2013 Yeah man you have a LOW idle. That's not typical of most cars and manufacturers don't usually design around that. You could also get a larger crank pulley Larger crank pulley? I know nothing about cars at all, except for some stuff audio related. Would this be a good alternative to just getting a new alt altogether that'll put out at my idle? Edit: Email from Mike 2-22-12, says alt puts out 140a at idle (800 rpms). I probably should've read Build in progress
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