TaylorFade Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 You know... for the sub stage, I say amp first. But for highs... it's the other way around. I'd rather have a shit amp on beatiful drivers. That's interesting. Lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 I save my money and buy what I want ... I don't settle for shit nothing ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 the key to the answer has to do with heat. Heat is the enemy of acoustical reproduction. As sound waves pass through air with different density it will bend because of refraction. Obviously there's a lot to consider when looking at heat control as basically every step of an audio process can affect it; from the cars electrical capability, the wiring, the materials, the amps, the connections, the speakers, the enclosure, and the sound signals from the amps. If I had to directly answer sub vs amp, I would also say amp in this instance because of the fact that "dirty" power will force a sub to create more heat than it would with "clean" power. As you probably know, distortion is the killer for subs, which is caused by heat, improper powering, or an unclean audio signal. Heat will also kill your amps too, which is put on the express track if you don't give it enough power. But a more realistic answer would be electrical like someone said earlier. You might have a 5000W RMS amp, but if your alternator is pushing 120amps max, you have an amp capable of producing 5000W RMS, but it is more realistically producing (120a x 13.4v=)1,608W and less because you don't have enough amperage from your single alternator. In order to get your 5000W you would need (at the least) 373 amps (5000W / 13.4v=373a) and more because your car has other electrical needs. You would also need batteries to be able to store and supply enough power quickly enough. This is also assuming your wiring and connections are very efficient. If I do buss bars I plan on using copper since it's more conductive than aluminum and I'm trying to get the maximum amount of power from my alt and battery. There's quite a few things you can do to improve your electrical system greatly. Damn son ... Not bad !!! Not bad at all ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 If I do buss bars I plan on using copper since it's more conductive than aluminum and I'm trying to get the maximum amount of power from my alt and battery. There's quite a few things you can do to improve your electrical system greatly. Damn son ... Not bad !!! Not bad at all ... Really, So the fact that lead is the main conductive component in the batteries we use, I seriously doubt ur gonna be able to draw more power from the battery, that it can supply, what ur buss bars are made of isn't gonna effect the end result Like I said the post on the battery is still lead.... Sooo get real..... Unless u go buy some real expensive batteries that arnt ur average agm like we all use with lead posts there isn't gonna be a change Just to prove the point lemme find a pic of expensive batteries.... Battery control module on the right, batts on the left, and lets just say 4 of these batteries equals one 3100..... You can see the combination of aluminum and copper is this picture Retail is 3k each battery, if I had money to blow I'd use thoes, one would make a 3100 look like a bitch! And spec wize 4 batts equals 1 3100 in weight and amp hrs Ill take the li-po's SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Why are you taking this thread WAY off topic CortezDTV ??? I was mainly congratzn him for what he talked about on heat which has alot to do with either going with a good amp or a good sub ... So Yes, maybe I quoted too much, but still, no need to carry this in a totally different direction. but if you to want to continue that part, I suggest you start your own thread and go for it and leave me out of it ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cirrusbratt3 Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Well its the basic truth that you cant have one without the other. Someone once told me that if you know what to look for an how to tinker around... then you can come up on a high end "older" amp models at a low end cheaper brand price. An then things should be awesome..decent amp an great speakers. But.... I had to do it once cause my speakers an enclosure were running late on delivery. Awesome amp, an crappy walmart speakers. Still sounded better than the neighbors. Mz "Bratt" older an wiser... just breezeing thru. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CortezDTV Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Why are you taking this thread WAY off topic CortezDTV ??? I was mainly congratzn him for what he talked about on heat which has alot to do with either going with a good amp or a good sub ... So Yes, maybe I quoted too much, but still, no need to carry this in a totally different direction. but if you to want to continue that part, I suggest you start your own thread and go for it and leave me out of it ... I was trying to quote him on the first part, coukdnt agree more with the heat thats why i deleted most of it; you got dragged into it with the quote button sorry On topic tho I'd get a good amp first, amps are the heart of the system, Subs and speakers are the appendages I wouldn't get a bigger better amp than you can safely support with your electrical tho SCSB Santa Cruz Speaker Box Build logs: Daily Driver Lemon Marquis 2 american bass 750.1s 350.4 on 14 focal 6.5s sq 945 on 4 hertz tweeters Mystery subs http://www.stevemead...__fromsearch__1 The Mustang 'dubbed' Shirley the project from bullet holes to badass http://www.stevemead...cond-skin-time/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
White Lightning Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Why are you taking this thread WAY off topic CortezDTV ??? I was mainly congratzn him for what he talked about on heat which has alot to do with either going with a good amp or a good sub ... So Yes, maybe I quoted too much, but still, no need to carry this in a totally different direction. but if you to want to continue that part, I suggest you start your own thread and go for it and leave me out of it ... I was trying to quote him on the first part, coukdnt agree more with the heat thats why i deleted most of it; you got dragged into it with the quote button sorry On topic tho I'd get a good amp first, amps are the heart of the system, Subs and speakers are the appendages I wouldn't get a bigger better amp than you can safely support with your electrical tho We cool brother and I agree with the adequate power and electrical !!! Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Bailey Posted September 4, 2013 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 Just an FYI.. My big 3 upgrade is ordered and en route from Tony at CE auto electric. I also have a bunch of sound dampening I got from the Labor day sale from Sonic. That right there gives me a nice weekend project to begin with. Like all aspects of life, "You can't build a house without building a solid foundation first". Thanks for all the input on my thread! Makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. Did you get that scar tissue when you got your vagina installed? KNOWLEDGE DESTROYS FEAR Measure twice, cut once JVC touchscreen HU Mmats E600.4 Realm L56c Audiophile 6.5 comps up front JBL P963 rear deck PB RTA 112 trunk CE Auto Big 3 Mechman 240alt D'Amore VM-1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted September 4, 2013 Report Share Posted September 4, 2013 I will say amp then subs. For the same reason many others have said good clean power to some pos subs is better then pos amp to a great sub. Pluse won't you end up cooking the sub any way with sending it bad power from a crap amp. 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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