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Infinite Baffle in Wagon No Wall?


IH8PunkRok

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I have been trying to figure out a way to do it, but I feel I am chasing a red herring.

Is it possible to do an infinite baffle setup in a wagon without making it walled?

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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i don't see why not. do subs up in the cargo area.

...and vent them to the outside. Usually people use the spare tire well. Cut it out and put a mesh grille so no debris can damage the speaker. Bowdown on Diyma has a cool IB setup like that. Dayton has a great IB sub as well as Incriminator Audio Flatlyne series, Fi, and believe it or not the Pyle blue wave.

2005 Ford Focus zx4

AMT's and Planars

18" Infinite baffle

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In my first Accord wagon I put three twelves flush in the rear floor. Used 2x4s and mdf and fiberglass to create a box out of the metal floor and framework of the car. Made a hinged baffle with bracing for the woofers and port that replaced the factory access panel/false floor. Amp was actually inside the "enclosure"--that's why it was hinged. Held the baffle down with hood pins and sealed it with double rubber bulb seal from a topper.

Ran it that way for four years until we got our new one.

Not infinite baffle, just another idea for you. Also plenty of guys have done the dual stealth boxed in the sides in the Magnums--if that's the car your working on. There's also tons of room in the spare tire well for subs and an amp rack in front of it.

Why infinite baffle in particular?

Static drops are my bag.

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In my first Accord wagon I put three twelves flush in the rear floor. Used 2x4s and mdf and fiberglass to create a box out of the metal floor and framework of the car. Made a hinged baffle with bracing for the woofers and port that replaced the factory access panel/false floor. Amp was actually inside the "enclosure"--that's why it was hinged. Held the baffle down with hood pins and sealed it with double rubber bulb seal from a topper.

Ran it that way for four years until we got our new one.

Not infinite baffle, just another idea for you. Also plenty of guys have done the dual stealth boxed in the sides in the Magnums--if that's the car your working on. There's also tons of room in the spare tire well for subs and an amp rack in front of it.

Why infinite baffle in particular?

I have heard many things about the SQ they bring to the table and I would like to try them

Indeed I am working with the magnum and side boxes are an option. Just not really sure what I want to try first

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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Alright. In my SE-R I ran those same three twelves in an infinite baffle trunk setup. Sounded pretty good but always wanted a little more output. They sounded better and handled more power in the ported box in the wagon.

Static drops are my bag.

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I've done the ported thing many many times

147 with 2 12s

148.1 with 2 15s

Many many others but I get tired of it. I really want something that will blend beautifully with my front stage. If I could make it happen without a sub stage I would, but I haven't figured that one out yet

-Matt

2005 Dodge Magnum RT
JVC KD-AVX1

2 PPI S580.2

Obsidian Audio ST1 Horn Tweeters

PRV 8MB450s

Audio Legion 3500.1D

2 RE MT 18s

360 ah LiFePO4 Battery
SHCA 2/0

155.2 @ 29 hz



Kicker CVR 15's build
DD 3512e build
Mini T-Line Build
(6) 8s Build
Nightshade 15s Wall Build
Magnum AB XFL 12s Build
Newest Magnum Build

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Best way to blend with the front stage is to lower the crossover points. I usually only run 50-55Hz and down to the sub depending on how low my fronts can play well. You have a decent front stage setup looking at your sig, let those 7" play down a bit. It seems you have plenty of power to do that with control.

Try a sealed box, or if you have a woofer that needs to be ported I usually tune in the low 30s. I don't chase numbers, I've never run more than 1000 watts to a sub stage in my own cars unless I had matching power up front, and I build my stuff for me--windows up rockin. Don't know what your goals are but that's what I found works for my taste. I design front stage first, then a matching sub stage, and finally rear fill if any is needed at all. YMMV.

Static drops are my bag.

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