On-going issue with H/O Honda Civic alt...is it the alt or the car???

[OrionStang]

Only modification needed was a few washers in the bottom mount area for a tight fit. Otherwise we just had to put the SOB on a lift loosen the engine mounts and tilt the motor drop the axel to get it in. This is why I'm trying to find a logical rhyme or reason for these failures before I go through all the trouble of swapping it a fourth time. I do want to make it clear that Singers service has been second to none in dealing with repairs and alt issues I've had along the way.

Got it. You should have clarified the issues.

Anyways, maybe you just have bad luck. Some of us have a lot of it.

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

Yes

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

I tried to include all that was relevant. Idk what to do anymore im over a grand deep with the box batteries and amp alone. Do I get a refund for now till I can get a different more easily accessible vehicle (alt-wise) or take Singers free replacement and swap a third time in hopes it will hold out for me??

[OrionStang]

If he's going to fix the issue, take the replacement no question. Seems like a chore to change on your car, but he's stepping up to make it right.

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

The catch is my uncle is only going to help me perform the swap once more. After this time he is done doing favors for me so should this third alt fail I have no way of transportation unless I dish out hundreds of dollars for someone else to swap it out.

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

Yes I know he definitely is but im taking a huge risk here.

[mbdblue]

What exactly do you mean "bypassing the computer's controls"? are you speaking of an ELD bypass? I wouldn't use a GM alt on a Honda....then again, I wouldn't use a yellow top either.

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

The new alt would be virtually stuck not working if it should fail yet again

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

I just mean that the factory plug is no longer in use as there is no way of plugging it into the high output alt that's all. Singer told me to keep a shitty even bone stock battery under the hood due to the fact that the first battery in line takes all of the abuse and will likely go bad after a year or two anyways. The GM alt is the only style case that will fit the amount of winding and upgraded parts needed to support my current draw and then some.

[DedicatedEnthusiast]

We tried a 160 amp stock case I was still having bad voltage drop and the regulator did not hold out for me. He said the larger cases have more reliable beefed up parts and better regulators so we went with the GM case. As far as the batteries go I know it is recommended to run xs throughout but I think its better more acceptable that a yellowtop is the same sort of AGM technology compared to those running bone stock wet cells under the hood without an issue.