Dual inputs worth it?

[soundstream15]

If your single run can flow the needed current then don't waste your money. The amp can only use what it needs. Having more on tap does nothing.

Then why do fuckers run 10 D3100s on 8k?

Just playing around to make a point. This forum is in love with overkill. Run triple inputs, 2 270XPs, and as many extra batts as you can fit, for a 7.5k LOL.

Because of 45 minute demos with the Tahoe off for underage girls, that's why!! lol

Who does that!? Lol cough cough

[CJ18]

It was cj that did testing.

and they didnt help.

Most people with a rear battery by their amp(s) wont see a difference since your amps power wires are so short and a 4 foot power wire can handle so much amperage (compared to the normal rating of about 300amps at 17ish feet).

the only time multiple inputs on your amp would help you out is if your battery is in the front of your car, and you have a huge amp in the rear, at that point running multiple runs to that amp is needed to reduce the voltage drop per run of wire. Perfect example are street a and b cars for db drag, 1 battery, 2 big 10,000 watt amps powering 2 12s off one d3100 or similar size battery under the hood with the car off and the stereo just goes burrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrp

That test was using ofc and cca, not a direct test.

I will run the test again in a few weeks using OFC for both tests.

Everytime I have added dual inputs to an amplifier I have seen a .4-.5db gain. I have never tested it in any other ways to try and figure where the gains are coming from, but I know what the termlab has said.

[MACnonsence6]

how would you fuse a amp with duel imputs like something that needs 500 amp worth of fusing that already has duel imputs would need 125 amp fuses per +

[Miguels]

yes

[MACnonsence6]

thats what i figured. but using that as an example 1/0 is easily good for double that in cca so wouldnt duel imputs be silly on something like a 5k amp? if the fuse is going to limit it to 125 that plus the amp is only going to draw what it needs. the only thing i can think of is there being less resistance but idk

[Miguels]

less voltage drop at the amp but a very short wire i doubt there will be much to begin with

i just like the way it looks running all that wire to the amp

[MACnonsence6]

i agree that was my reasoning for it in the first place same reason why im going to run 1/0-4 reducers for a ct sounds 125.2 and .4 they dont need wire that big but why not.

with my plan for the 4k though 4+ and - will work out better plan to run 4 caps right next to the amp so instead of all 4 terminals going to one post plan is one per cap then caps wired in parallel with 4/0 so 2 terminals per post on the caps. keeps things a little less cluttered

[audiofanaticz]

That test was using ofc and cca, not a direct test.

I will run the test again in a few weeks using OFC for both tests.

Everytime I have added dual inputs to an amplifier I have seen a .4-.5db gain. I have never tested it in any other ways to try and figure where the gains are coming from, but I know what the termlab has said.

Thats what it was.

But even still testing in a vehicle with a varible impedance load is different than testing outside the vehicle in a controlled setting with a fixed impedance load.

Simple reason for dual terminals being louder in a vehicle is simple

Chances are the runs from the battery bank to the amps are rather long which adds resistance, once the wire is having current pulled thruough it that wire will get warmer and warmer and increase the resistance and with that happening your increasing the power lose or voltage drop from point a)) the battery and point B )) the amp.

Its also worth mentioning these tests will be completely different when your testing different sized amplifiers. A larger amp that does not have adequate power inputs to begin with will see a change in its output performance.

Example 1)) a DC 2.0k 2000ish watt rms amp with 1 set of 1/0 inputs and requires 200amps of fusing.

With 1/0gauge wire that can support 300amps of current per 17foot run you are already having 100amps of overhead. So adding dual inputs to this amp would be minimal at best if not at all.

This amps ratings are 100amps under the 300 rating of the amplifier.

Example 2)) a DC 7.5k 7500ish watt rms amp with 2 sets of 1/0 inputs and requires 750amps of fusing.

With 2 runs of 1/0 gauge wire your looking at 600amps of potential max current through the wire, so with using only the factory inputs your already 150amps over the 600amp rating of the wire.

So right off the bat the factory wiring options are under par to begin with, now trying to pull more amperage through the wire that is not rated to handle it will cause even more heat and added resistance due to heat. so yea adding dual terminals to said amp that is so far under par to begun with may give you a decent increase on the meter. This is how car fires start when people try to pull way to much current through the wire, the wire gets hot and the protective jacket around the wire gets very soft or melts off and your left with a dead short getting stupid hot stupid fast causing a fire, or at bare minimum a exploding battery and a blown amp (if your fusing is not properly done).

Also to be fair any of said tests should be done using True AWG wire, which meets the American wire gauge standard, and not some "over sized" wire like the majority of wire on the market (nothing against these companies, i use and love them myself), it just wouldnt be a fair test when your "2/0" wire is actually 4/0. The same can be said for their 1/0 wire too since it is insanely over sized with its inner dimensions of 13.5mm and can safely carry 375amps @ a 17foot length compared to a non over sized true awg standard of 1/0 and about 10mm diameter iirc with a rating of 300amps @ a 17foot length. So the added sky high wire diameter would allow for a much larger current to safely flow.

Maybe its just a pet peeve but Im so sick of seeing get this 2/0 wire because its better, and bigger than that brands 2/0 wire, but the reality is that larger wire and costs more, and is actually 4/0 wire but people try to compare it anyways since its labeled 2/0 when its not actually 2/0 wire, its 4/0 lol.

[CJ18]

Good thing I have 1 of every DC amp and a few others that will be tested.

[Miguels]

That test was using ofc and cca, not a direct test.

I will run the test again in a few weeks using OFC for both tests.

Everytime I have added dual inputs to an amplifier I have seen a .4-.5db gain. I have never tested it in any other ways to try and figure where the gains are coming from, but I know what the termlab has said.

Thats what it was.

But even still testing in a vehicle with a varible impedance load is different than testing outside the vehicle in a controlled setting with a fixed impedance load.

Simple reason for dual terminals being louder in a vehicle is simple

Chances are the runs from the battery bank to the amps are rather long which adds resistance, once the wire is having current pulled thruough it that wire will get warmer and warmer and increase the resistance and with that happening your increasing the power lose or voltage drop from point a)) the battery and point B )) the amp.

Its also worth mentioning these tests will be completely different when your testing different sized amplifiers. A larger amp that does not have adequate power inputs to begin with will see a change in its output performance.

Example 1)) a DC 2.0k 2000ish watt rms amp with 1 set of 1/0 inputs and requires 200amps of fusing.

With 1/0gauge wire that can support 300amps of current per 17foot run you are already having 100amps of overhead. So adding dual inputs to this amp would be minimal at best if not at all.

This amps ratings are 100amps under the 300 rating of the amplifier.

Example 2)) a DC 7.5k 7500ish watt rms amp with 2 sets of 1/0 inputs and requires 750amps of fusing.

With 2 runs of 1/0 gauge wire your looking at 600amps of potential max current through the wire, so with using only the factory inputs your already 150amps over the 600amp rating of the wire.

So right off the bat the factory wiring options are under par to begin with, now trying to pull more amperage through the wire that is not rated to handle it will cause even more heat and added resistance due to heat. so yea adding dual terminals to said amp that is so far under par to begun with may give you a decent increase on the meter. This is how car fires start when people try to pull way to much current through the wire, the wire gets hot and the protective jacket around the wire gets very soft or melts off and your left with a dead short getting stupid hot stupid fast causing a fire, or at bare minimum a exploding battery and a blown amp (if your fusing is not properly done).

Also to be fair any of said tests should be done using True AWG wire, which meets the American wire gauge standard, and not some "over sized" wire like the majority of wire on the market (nothing against these companies, i use and love them myself), it just wouldnt be a fair test when your "2/0" wire is actually 4/0. The same can be said for their 1/0 wire too since it is insanely over sized with its inner dimensions of 13.5mm and can safely carry 375amps @ a 17foot length compared to a non over sized true awg standard of 1/0 and about 10mm diameter iirc with a rating of 300amps @ a 17foot length. So the added sky high wire diameter would allow for a much larger current to safely flow.

Maybe its just a pet peeve but Im so sick of seeing get this 2/0 wire because its better, and bigger than that brands 2/0 wire, but the reality is that larger wire and costs more, and is actually 4/0 wire but people try to compare it anyways since its labeled 2/0 when its not actually 2/0 wire, its 4/0 lol.

most of your post is true but on the wire i will call bull... i got some SKY high wire and its in par with most car audio wire. fosgate kicker knu jl audio xs wire and even bullz audio wire.. its the welding wire that is undersized together with the cheap audio wire.. you cant compare quality car audio wire to welding cable or cheap wire

edit: back in the day (1998-2003) when i was into audio the wire was bigger and better to what i came back to.. i compared my old wire to the new stuff thats going around and the wire and the jacket was better back in the day. todays wire is junk and just makes you think good wire is over sized when it really isn't( maybe just a bit) but to me is a good thing