Cj Kumz Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 Hey people quick question here.. I have heard alot of people saying that for example an re audio sub rated at 1000rms can handle say 2500rms. Or a JL Audio rated at 1500rms can handle much more, but anyway those are examples.. So how can u tell how much rms a subwoofer can truly handle since they all mostly under rated. Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!!
SPLadd1ct Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 Too many variables, peoples definition of "handle" is way too loose. Best way IMO off the top of my head to diagnostically to determine this would probably be to use pink noise as the signal and a temperature/thermal gun to monitor what is going on with the voice coil. 2011 Ford Ranger Sport 4.0 v6 2 sundown audio prototype nsv4 15s crossfire 4k wired to 0.4 ohm 15 banks of maxwell 3.0 caps @ 18v triple alts (x2 us alt 250's, x1 singer 320) 153 at 23hz
Cj Kumz Posted January 3, 2014 Author Report Posted January 3, 2014 yah makes sense that way. Cause I wanna know what rms from the amp would best suite my subwoofer Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!!
BigGains Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 I would suggest staying with the manufacture's recommended rms number.... 2003 silverado TEAM DC Pioneer Avh 5500 4 DC lvl 5 18s 12 crescendo pwx 6.5s 4 crescendo ft1 tweets 6xs d3400s Singer 400 alt Skyhigh ofc wires Skyhigh speaker wires Smd vm1 2 DC 175.4 DC 10k
Azagtoth502 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 RMS is the thermal limit of a speaker. Doesn't mean you need to give it rms to sound the best. A smart designer will underrate it some though . pa-pa-platypus sorry not everybody has a companies nuts so far down their throat they catch every drop ball sweat when it falls
alaskanzx5 Posted January 3, 2014 Report Posted January 3, 2014 The people that give more then manufacture rms suggestion have experience that helps make it possible. Just because someone can give a sub double rms doesn't mean everyone can with the same result. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
SQ SUBARU Posted January 4, 2014 Report Posted January 4, 2014 It all depends on the driver. Some subs go fine on more power than there rms rating is given. There are lots of variables though and it all fronds every setup is different. Enclosure, port size etc, music, plus more. Try to stay in the manufactures recommendation. It is ok to over power it by a little. Sometimes it is ok to overpower it by a lot, I've had a single 12 rated at 400 watts rms on 1000, and it was fine. I don't recommend on doing it though. When you over power it beyond its rms rating, you are sending more heat through the voice coil. But it depends on how many watts is being sent through it from the amplifier. There are also in efficiencies when installing an amp as well. So I would stick to the manufactures specs but it is ok to send more than continuous power to a sub, just be careful and it is good to have headroom. Ipad mini as main source unit, w/ Kenwood KDC-U7056BT,Digital Designs CS6.5 2 way components, Alpine PDX-F4 4 channel & PDX-M6 mono, x1 Jbl P1224 12", single ported box @ 34hz, front doors + trunk sound deadened w/ dynamat xtreme,all knukonceptz wiring/fusing. *In progress - Audison bit ten d dsp, fully optical.
Quiet4Lyfe Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 Look at the sundown sa-12's. They have the potential to break 50's.. But at the same time, they are rated for 600 rms. The owner of sundown used to run 2 4500's on 4 sa-12's. Its possible to overpower them by that much because he simply played it in short bursts. You need to tune your amp correctly tho.. That is a very big variable. Keep your deck settings in tune as well. I've personally always liked to buy amp's in and around my woofers power range. The pro's to buying an amp that is 1000+ rms off your rating is that you can keep the amp settings very low to prevent overheating on the amp. its all experience, i wouldnt run off anf buy a dc 10k for a single 12, but many do. It's about to get QUIET. Expedition, Quad zv.4 18's, ab750.1, quiet mode activated... Visit our build log at : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197481-expedition-quad-zv4-6th-order-attempt-first-time/
ChevyBoy95 Posted January 6, 2014 Report Posted January 6, 2014 Depends mainly on the driver, enclosure, and the amplifier powering it. But mainly the driver itself. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
SQ SUBARU Posted January 7, 2014 Report Posted January 7, 2014 Yes it depends if many things. Eg, IB usually needs very little power or less than rated same with a large sealed box. With a small sealed box you generally need more power to get the same output on the same wattage than in a ported box that is larger. Also another important role is sensitivity, if the driver has high sensitvity (90db+) and qs and other parameters, then it can reach its mechanical limits before power limits (it's rms rating) Ipad mini as main source unit, w/ Kenwood KDC-U7056BT,Digital Designs CS6.5 2 way components, Alpine PDX-F4 4 channel & PDX-M6 mono, x1 Jbl P1224 12", single ported box @ 34hz, front doors + trunk sound deadened w/ dynamat xtreme,all knukonceptz wiring/fusing. *In progress - Audison bit ten d dsp, fully optical.
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