CleanSierra Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 I was wanting 48-50 and 50 is just where I ended up. I wasn't going to sacrifice anymore port area than I had to, so I went with the widest, longest possible port I could while still having clearance to the bottom of the box. This guy listens to a lot of rock and the iso should help it dig low enough I think. Won't know until it's in and playing though I also have the sealed chamber with more than enough volume to help the lows. On paper, should have been .75 cubes. I gave it over a cube so that should help. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
john253a Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Hanging for some vids Why on double and not triple in the baffle Just for the extra piece of mind
CleanSierra Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 I didn't see the need for 3 pieces of wood John. These are only 600W(if that) subs. Plus, the mounting plates will be sandwiched into the box between 4 walls. Glue and screws should really prevent any flex within the box. I am gonna bust on this for the weekend so hopefully I'll get it done. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
certifiednut Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 hell, the baffles are so small, i doubt there will be any problems. looks like a fun project. keep up the good work! these orphans aren't going to feast on themselves
CleanSierra Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 It's amazing how many of the vintage and old school guys check in on a build like this. Takes us back to a different time I hope this one doesn't disappoint. I've been itching to do something like this for awhile. Thanks all who are watching Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
john253a Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 Only asking about the triple for cone movement not structural Hate to see them rub or perilous How much power the customer plane to through at them If 1 at 600w idd say that combined is a nice place to start
CleanSierra Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 Ohhh, I gotcha John. These subs have this thicker outer ring that's kind of a chrome looking thing. It brings it up more flush with surround. I'll see if I can grab a stock photo. As far as power goes, it's an Audio Technix AT800.1, so I think it puts out like 1000-1200 @1 ohm. They are Dual 4 ohms so I'll wire them down to 1. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
elflako17 Posted January 12, 2014 Report Posted January 12, 2014 you always doing some crazy shit.... lol 2010 Mazda 3 *Rebuild Time* Subs - (2) AA Mayhems 12's Sub amp - (1) Populus Audio TPA 6500 Headunit - Pioneer App Radio 2 Batteries - XS Power (1) D3100 up front | 6 XP950 rear Wire - Sky High 1/0 Gauge wires and RCA's and steve's VM1 Alternator - Singer 260 Externally Regulated Front Stage: (2) PRV Audio 10W650A (4) PRV Audio 8MR500-PhP-4 (4) DS Bullet Tweets | (2) 6.5 Components (Rear doors) Mids & high Amp : (2) Populus Audio 100.4 Processor: Rockford 3sixty.3 The Build Log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/175922-2010-mazda-3-2-aa-mayhems-12-pg14-new-video/page-11
CleanSierra Posted January 12, 2014 Author Report Posted January 12, 2014 Here is what that sub looks like. You can kind of see how the mounting flange comes out pretty far. An inch and a half should be plenty of room since they will move in unison the same direction. Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.
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