jk13 Posted January 15, 2014 Report Posted January 15, 2014 But the head unit shouldn't be drawing anywhere near its fuse rating if using an external amp, no? Just sending a low level signal to the amp. True. But because you don't know what it will draw running that way I meant it as a safety measure. (Really as a general rule for other people reading). And I would still add a small battery as a buffer. Power supplies--like alternators--do better running steady loads rather than hi/low draw fast cycles. Static drops are my bag.
loudNlow87 Posted January 15, 2014 Author Report Posted January 15, 2014 But the head unit shouldn't be drawing anywhere near its fuse rating if using an external amp, no? Just sending a low level signal to the amp. True. But because you don't know what it will draw running that way I meant it as a safety measure. (Really as a general rule for other people reading). And I would still add a small battery as a buffer. Power supplies--like alternators--do better running steady loads rather than hi/low draw fast cycles. Alrighty.. Thanks. I may give the xbox supply a shot at first on just the headunit. That may be loud enough, I'll have to see. What kinda of battery you think would suffice? I'd like it all to be contained within the box. '11 Jeep Patriot New Build Head Unit: Pioneer AVH-P3200DVD Front: Massive CK69 Components Front Amp: Massive NX2 Rears: Infinity Kappa's Subs: 8 Sundown SA-8 v2's Sub Amp: AB 450.1 XS D3100 Come on 150!
john253a Posted January 15, 2014 Report Posted January 15, 2014 Have you looked at plate amps or receiver amps You can some real cheap And just design you box round the amp I like t-line boxes for home as the power input is low keeping the amp cost low
xNewbx Posted February 4, 2014 Report Posted February 4, 2014 I use the same power supply and my HT is loud as can be lol. It gets warm after an hour of play, but has never gotten hot.
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