Ahmed Johnson Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 I use the seat belt bolt. Though, I only have less than 1000rms. Oh lord, that still isn't acceptable. That amp can still get hot and go into protect.
Swordlordboy1234 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 I now have a true rms DMM.. And I'll be posting up some voltage gains as I go. So far my newest update is I have both batteries resting at 12.81 and when I'm running my front charges at 14.38 and my rear battery is at 14.35. So I lose .03 volts front to back with no draw. If I have a second person to help hold my car RPM's up and monitor my system I can do further tests. Goal is 13.0 v at idle while demoing! My old YouTube channel : http://www.youtube.com/user/SwordLords1234?feature=mhee My old build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/161872-96-accord-b2-sundown-sky-high-dc-power-re-re-build-for-heatwave/page-37 My New Build - http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/207041-2016-mazda-6-sql-build/ 2016 Mazda 6 Touring JL Fix 86 - OEM signal correction B2 prototype DSP 6to8 B2 Ref63 - 3 way active set 2 B2 Class H quattro's 1 B2 Zero.5R @.5 2 B2 HNv3 12 d2 B2 SLIP40 - Lithium in the trunk Northstar Group 35 under the hood 100ft 2/0 welding cable 30ft 4ga welding cable 20ft 8ga welding cable All stinger OFC speaker wire Soundrive custom RCA's Tons of attention to detail.... Can it be perfect?
Ahmed Johnson Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 I have a ground under the seat that connects to the frame and an an old one still in the trunk drilled in to the body under the carpet. I got a trailblazer.
alaskanzx5 Posted January 25, 2014 Report Posted January 25, 2014 yep just test it with a dmm to find the best choice. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.
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