alaskanzx5 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 blocking the port is well worth the attempt. I would just shove a shirt/sweater in there instead of spending the money on the nerf ball or make an mdf cover. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Well after warming the car up for 20+ minutes i grabed a towel and rolled it u to be 4"+ to stick into the port and with mids muted to test sub it sounded better, Not as high of out put but sounded cleaner with nicer lows. Unfortunately all the plastic in the rear deck and wall vibrate badly and makes it sound like ass. The box is wedged under the main rear deck support beam in the trunk causing more things to rattle than i think it should. I think will need to get a roll of 1/4 acoustic foam to cover more area to silence the rattles. Which means tearing the rear deck down and removing the back seats. I will leave the 1 port blocked for now but i definately need to rebuild an enclosure for there and change things up some. I think i would like to try some sealed subs for better SQ. covered both ports and really liked how it sounded. I dont know what subs to run now if i go sealed but i think 2 sealed 10s or 12s would give a clean sound with good volume levels still. Never though i was a SQ guy but now the front stage sounds so good it would be nice to improve the sub stage. Any ideas on size of subs and make? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 could you fit 2 12" in the opening facing forward into the cabin? if so that's how I would do it for sealed. double the cone area but sealed would at least help with keeping more output since you will need it in order to keep up with the front sound stage. going sealed doesn't really mean sq either though. try talking with cable guy on here, he knows a lot about sq and could give you some pointers. the reason why everything was rattling more is because the lower tuning. most of my boxes have been tuned in the high 30s low 40s but had one of my 15s In a 35hz box for a little while when I was in Oregon and holy cow did it flex my car compared to my 2 12s in a 38-40hz box. even though I went from 2 12s to 1 15 that single 15 was getting things moving a lot more. made me realize that I don't want to chase numbers and I would rather get some flex going. its going to be a pain to fit both my 15s in my little hatch but I want it so ill do it. getting the port area needed is going to be the big issue. so limited on space. if I build the box so that the back wall that is up against the back seat is angled with the seat I can do roughly 6.6cuft box with 99" of port tuned to 35hz. fitting my amps/batteries becomes the issues there though. the 4channels can go into the hatch door and the sub amps under the box in the spare tire well. I can fit a group 31 under the hood and a smaller battery where the stock airbox was and some small batts on both side of the box on top of the wheel wells. wont know for sure I how it works out until its done though. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 A 15" sub will gain you output. A SSA Xcon would need a box like the one you have volume wise and will handle the power. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 Thanks for the input guys. I was just being stuborn and not facing the reality that the box needed to be rebuilt. I was thinking 2 12s in the opening sealed, and since i have 1 12 now was kinda thinking another T1 12. But if one 15 sealed would have high out put seal that would be an option too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe X Posted February 1, 2014 Report Share Posted February 1, 2014 If you really liked the T1 sealed then two of them will sound the same but louder, in fact that sub you have is adequate for sealed boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 If you really liked the T1 sealed then two of them will sound the same but louder, in fact that sub you have is adequate for sealed boxes. Thanks Joe X, you have been a lot help on my eclosure issues. So have Alaskanzx5 and it is much appreciated. I am gong to go out and take some measurements for a possible wedge shaped box to form to the contours of the back seat wall. Hel inlarge the box some and also see if its possible to port thru the rear deck where the 6.5 speakers holes are. Nothing there right now. Any thoughts on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Ok, Heres what i came up with. If i make a wedge shaped box the new Cu ft will be 3.68 / 2 = 1.84 per side. With sub displacement 1.532 Cu Ft. Pretty much right in between sealed and ported specs. Dont know what that would do for sealed tuning. And if i where to port into cab that doesnt subtract for port displacement. Right now @ 32 Hz ports would be 19.68" long. Also the opening behind the seats is 29" so 14.5" is the area have to work with for each sub and that sounds do able right? So wth this new info what would be the best course to take here or am i just looking at building 2 boxs to hear and see what works best. I am like a pitbull and once i get my teeth into something i cant let go. Plus i have the time now but not in the summer months. Here are some pics to work with to get a better idea. What i have now. Top of box and space under rear deck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bcbrassard Posted February 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 And on the othersde. 6" between top of box and rear speaker cut outs. Plenty of distance for 19" Ports into rear deck if i where to go that route. And this is a pic of the one port blocked off getto style and the amount of room i have to extend the bottom of the box. there is 4" but i only extended it 3" to leave room for power wires. Pic of the other side with port open and room for power wres to still run, just have to move distrabution block out some. Last pic is with the seat up and clearance i have now. They are like 30/70 seats. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alaskanzx5 Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 1.5cuft per is small for ported. a single 15 ported would do good in 3-4cuft tuned around 35 hz. a single 8" aero port would look nasty and give you roughly 50" of port. for the power wire why not take the trim off and run it behind the trim so that you can make the angle of the box match the seat completely? would make it easier to seal off and gain output and sq. read a lot about less rattles for sealed trunks. your welcome for the help, its Rockford and your from Alaska so I have to help lol. t1500bdcp 2 t2d4 15" 1 t600.4 1 t400.2 1 set p1 tweets singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.