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chrisw.

Running my amp at lower impedance than it's meant for?

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  The main thing to remember is that amp manufacturers #1 goal is to make money, that's hard to do when you have a lot of warranty claims or for people to stop buying their product due to a bad rap of reliability. For the average consumer a car audio system is buying an amp having it installed and that's it. Often times the install is not enough to sufficiently power the amp at it's rated power wired to manufacturers specs. Top that with the fact that 90% of people won't do any type of electrical upgrades.

  You being on this site already takes you out of the 90% group and puts you into the 10% who are active car audio enthusiasts, where most will have made improvements to the electrical environment of their vehicle. 

  There are 4 things regardless of impedance that need to be addressed and far more important when trying to do what you are asking.

1. Adequate electrical both for power and the negative ground side.

2. A clean audio signal

3. Keep the amp from clipping (which isn't always due to a dirty audio signal).

4. Heat. Take 2 identical amps and give 1 a healthy electrical supply and the other a sub standard supply. Run them at top of their rated power and you will notice that the amp with the adequate power supply will run much cooler even though both are putting out the same amount of power. Most amps have thermal protection but don't rely on it, if constantly shutting down due to thermal it won't last long, even though considered "protection" at that temperature the electrical components are degrading at a very slow pace.

Every amp will have a threshold of where damage will occur from too low of an impedance but keeping the 4 items listed above in check most amplifiers will live happily at half (and often times even lower) of the manufacturers spec.

Some people will disagree but there are many people out there that run their equipment below specs everyday in their daily rigs.


01 Chevy Silverado X-cab

2 Sundown Z18v4 walled on 2 Lanzar Opti 7k's strapped at 1/2ohm = each amp wired to 1/4ohm. Havent checked impedence rise so not sure what they are actually seeing. 6 group 31AGM's.

2-Eclipse 34230's each one running 2 Eminence 6.5" Beta 6A. These are beastly mids rated at 350w program power. I was skeptical but the eclipse amps are 370w x 2 and when there was 4 mids on 1 amp I could push it into thermal protect within a song so added the 2nd amp. 

Eclipse 4212 running 4 CT sounds Meso tweeters. and 2 DLS ultimate tweeters up high to raise the soundstage.

 

96' Ford F350 4wd 4d long bed 7.3 diesel with 91k miles. Will be the sound quality rig if I can ever find the time.

 

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Almost seems as if a manufacturer should incorporate some type of elaborate active flowing coolant system with resoirvoir to thier heat sinks.... Wait.....

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3 times this thread was necroed lol And I dont understand why people do this other then the people that do strictly burps.   .(think slew is what it’s called can’t remember nd on cell phone so to lazy to look it up).  the slew rate takes a dive every time you lower the ohm load so for music it doesn’t make sense.. the  lower the slew rate the less control the amp can have over the sub .... you want to combat impedence rise get a bigger amp then what your subs need headroom isn’t a bad thing anyways.. 

Edited by CstrokerV

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10 hours ago, CstrokerV said:

3 times this thread was necroed lol And I dont understand why people do this other then the people that do strictly burps.   .(think slew is what it’s called can’t remember nd on cell phone so to lazy to look it up).  the slew rate takes a dive every time you lower the ohm load so for music it doesn’t make sense.. the  lower the slew rate the less control the amp can have over the sub .... you want to combat impedence rise get a bigger amp then what your subs need headroom isn’t a bad thing anyways.. 

You mean 5 times 

You were the 4th, I'm 5th and 3rd

Y

  • Haha (+1 Rep) 1

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