CJ18 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Good work Cody you sold me Shoot, I sold myself. I am really pleased and impressed. I do have to have some inputs made for these though. Stuffing wire in them sucks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matt14 Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 These little amps are beasts. Should sell pretty well. You going to carry the Bass clef series too cody? 2006 GMC YukonPioneer HU SHCA ran throughout Crescendo BC3500 One 18 AA Mayhem in a 4th order ZED Levithian 6 channel Rainbow Dual 6.5 comps ran Activehttp://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155628-matt14s-yukon-mayhem-in-a-4th-ordernew-amps-and-bats/page-3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Just waiting for them to come back in stock. I have a ton of them ordered. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Crescendo Symphony 1500.1 This works out to about 84% efficient. BUT Since there is no way to guarantee that the clamp reading was taken at EXACTLY the same time as the power reading by the dyno, it could be a little bit more efficient. I would give it a +/- 5% tolerance So... I'm curious about this. The dyno track is just a test tone that rolls in right? What is the operation on the amp dyno like? Do the resistors disconnect once the reading is taken, or do they stay connected the whole time, even after the output measurement is complete? ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 The track that is used for the test gradually rolls up until it reaches the full output of the headunit. In the case of mine it is right at 4v. The track runs for about 15 seconds and the dyno reads for this entire time. When you see the lights on the dyno go off, that means that the headunit is no longer putting out a signal to the amp. If it were stil putting out signal, the dyno would keep reading. Basically it is controlled by the track being used. If I were to use a 40hz test tone that were 1 min long, it would read for that entire min or until the load bank over heated and the dyno protected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kidder Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 Thanks for this. My 800.4 just showed up yesterday and that video has me stoked to get it rollin. Ready to see how it sounds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 So I just read something that answers part of the efficiency question. The 90%+ rating is at 2 ohm on the 1500.1 and 4 ohm on the 600.1 Per Crescendos Website The final outcome of the PCB design enables up to 97% efficiency @ 2 ohms on the monoblock Symphony models and up to 91% efficiency @ 2ohms per channel on the multi-channel models, making them the top tier of efficiency possible in car audio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 The one thing I don't like about these, is the angled set screws. They pretty much rip the wire apart. Instead of going straight down into the wire, it goes in, and acts like a cutter almost. I've had to remove the speaker wire a couple times now for DD1 / CC1 action, and if I do it again, I'm going to have to cut the wire and re strip it. Otherwise I love mine! They're solid. I beat on my mids yesterday on the way home, about 45 minute drive, and when I got home they were just warm. Not hot, but warm. I think nendo hit one out of the park with these things! Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJ18 Posted February 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 The one thing I don't like about these, is the angled set screws. They pretty much rip the wire apart. Instead of going straight down into the wire, it goes in, and acts like a cutter almost. I've had to remove the speaker wire a couple times now for DD1 / CC1 action, and if I do it again, I'm going to have to cut the wire and re strip it. Otherwise I love mine! They're solid. I beat on my mids yesterday on the way home, about 45 minute drive, and when I got home they were just warm. Not hot, but warm. I think nendo hit one out of the park with these things! Probably not going to do anything for the speaker wire side, but I think we are going to offer free 1/0 to 1/0 with the 1500.1 and 4ga to 4ga with the other 3. Will have to have them designed and made to fit the angled set screw though. I look at it this way, I dont mind the angled set screw, it would piss me off if the whole input were angled. I hate those. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scooter99 Posted February 19, 2014 Report Share Posted February 19, 2014 That's a great point. I hate them too. Facebook Page: S99Creations 2006 F250 Lariat Build Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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