Install for a 2013 Ford F150 FX4 Supercrew

[Leo1103]

roofing material is garbage, get real deadener

[Pioneerchuck]

The best way to do it is learn from the guys who have been doing it. But I dont know anyone who hasnt fucked something up their first time. Lol as for sub choice, great way to go. Those subs pack a powerful punch! With D4 you're right you can turn it down and it'll be no big deal. Your wiring will work fine for what you're going to be using. Just dont forget to fuse it. As for mids and highs amp, it might be worth it to check out the SoundQubed Q4-120.

[Mtnbikecrazy55]

As others have said, ditch the deadener

[hdorre]

If you want deadener, then you might wanna consider SecondSkinAudio

[hdorre]

First, I need to install a quality amp kit. All recommendations are welcome! Id go with either SkyHighCarAudio or Knu. SHCA is a vendor here, and makes excellent products.

I was planning on doing the big 3. I checked the trucks manual and found the battery is 750 cold cranking amps (Is this sufficient with my plans?) For 1600wrms? Its hard to say. If your voltage drops too much, then you can just replace it with a good AGM battery. Its all about testing

The wire run to the battery has a 240 amp fuse on it. Looking through the bay of the engine, I found that the wire is run from the alternator into the trucks main wiring harness. It eventually branches back out and onto the battery. My only thought on a solution, if I want to do the whole big 3, is to disconnect the wire that is currently connected to the alternator, run my own 0 gauge wire, add at least a 240 fuse to the new wire no more than a foot from the battery terminal. NO! Leave stock wiring, and add on. Don't touch the factory line. Add your 1/0 wire to the alternator post, and wire the other end directly to your battery.

From there, I need to run the power wire all the way to the back cab of the truck and into a distribution block. Branch the power off into both amps. I'm keeping the stock head unit currently in the truck. It's a touchscreen with nav, plenty of features that I like. It looks like the only way to integrate the sync, bluetooth, steering wheel control, ect is to run everything (All amps, speakers) through an interface. Some I've found are: LCI8, Kicker Sum8, JL Clean Sweep/SSI Combo. (Should I use a 3 port distribution block to provide power for the interface? I did see a few ford owners tap into a fuse (#38) to provide power) ​I wouldn't tap into a fuse for power. What will the distribution block power? Your Pioneer, SoundQubed, Sound "processor," and relay? If so, then Id use a distro block.

There is an amp located under the center console which I can tap into the wires and run into the interface (LCI8 for instance).

Mids and High Amp: Pioneer GM-D8604 4 channel allowing 100 watts x 4 @ 4 ohms

Front Door Speakers: Polk DB 6501 Components (100 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)

Back Door Speakers: Polk DB 571 5x7inch Coaxials (60 watt RMS @ 4 ohms)

Bass Amp: Sount Qubed Q1-1200 D class (run at 870 x 1 @ 2 ohms) Killer Amp

Subs: 2 Sundown SA 8 V2's (500 watt RMS) run into the amp @ 2 ohms. Killer subs.. I have the v1.5s. Id get dual 1 ohm voice coils, and wire in series/parallel to achieve 1 ohm to the amp.

Bought 4 rolls (6 inches x 25 ft ) of U Seal Roofing Repair for dampening material of back wall and all doors. Please return that shit, and go to SecondSkinAudio.com

I plan on building an amp rack on the back wall behind my back seat. Mmm.. I love me a clean amp rack!

Any comments or suggestions, I really appreciate it!

Thanks, As soon as I start the build, i can provide video or pictures to show the build. Werd, we actually have a section dedicated to build pics and vids.

Plz read the dark red, bolded writing.

[jr07]

Appreciate the response Indorre.

The distribution block would be for both amps using 4 gauge, 8 gauge for the interface. Can someone elaborate on the relay? (Is this a replacement for a remote wire; forgive my ignorance on the subject)

[hdorre]

No problem. Sounds good.

As far as the relay, that'd be for your remote wire. For most people who use their remote turn on lead for more than 2 or 3 devices use a relay, to ensure everything turns on. Id rather not worry about blowing the remote turn on output of the head unit.

[jr07]

A relay definitely sounds like the smart way to go. I found a youtube video which discusses relays.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w0D27HRF8yA

Is this video a good reference point to wire a relay?

[hdorre]

Yes, Rich is a member here. A video that I saw that I also really like is this: Relay 101 Car Audio - Connect Multiple Amplifiers LED's Fans Relays

[jr07]

So with a little more digging, I found out that the Ford F150 Navigation/Sync upgraded stereo does not have a remote/turn on wire on the back of the head unit. The base stereo head unit is the only one that included a remote/turn on wire on the back. I checked my manual and found out that a specific fuse/relay (#38) is a delayed fuse that maintains power with the ignition turned off and will lose current when the door is open. It's a 10 amp fuse. There are also 2 fuse/relay's free that are 10 amp. I found a forum where a lot of guys with Fords are using an add a fuse in the delay spot. Which space would you guys recommend?

With the help of Indorre, I feel pretty confident running a SPDT relay, but I don't know if that's even necessary anymore. Or should I use the add a fuse, it adds a wire off the fuse itself, run my remote/turn on to the back of the truck and then install the SPDT relay? What do you guys think?

Also, I'm having trouble deciding on a 4 channel highs amp with at least 400rms at 4 ohms. If space wasn't a concern, I'd go with Pioneerchuck's pick (sound qubed q4-120).