Goingdef1310 Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 So I've bought a RF T2500.1bdcp and I have an AGM battery upfront as is and I've bought another matching one for in the back. But what I'm wondering is do i need a ground run from the front battery to the back or is a frame ground acceptable ? And do I now ground my amps off the second battery or the frame? I have a T1500.1bdcp back there now and my frame grounds have never given me any issues but these couple of uncertainties have me procrastinating this install, I want it done right the first time so I'm not chancing problems later. Thanks for any help you guys can provide! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmets Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I am not an expert for one. As with the second battery you can ground it to the rear, but not sure. I have my ground runs going to the front battery. My amps are also grounded to the back batteries and I have had no issues with them. I honestly don't think you have to ground to the front battery but that's just how I did it. I am sure someone that is smarter than me with more experience will chime in though. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/177477-slowboring-07-trailblazer-build/Pioneer DEH-80PRSPRV 8MR400-NDY (eight) PRV TW350Ti (6)Sky High 1/0 OFC, 12 gauge and 8 gaugeTM Metalworkz battery terminals 120 sqft HushmatXS Power D3100 (6)Singer 350 Amp Alt Singer 320 (2)American Bass SQL3200 JL Audio JX360/4 Crossfire XS 8K (2) DC Audio XL 15s (6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dude2800 Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I hope you get answers. I have a similar question in the electrical section. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TS2GFrank Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I've always grounded my extra batteries in the rear chassis and only ran (+) from the front. I also grounded my amps to a battery and not the chassis. I honestly don't know if it's the right way or not but it has always worked for me and I've had no voltage problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pioneerchuck Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I've always grounded both + and - to front and back batteries. Then I did a - ground to the frame on both front and rear batteries. A little overkill but it never hurts to have overkill. As for grounding your amp, it's probably better and easier to ground to the battery. When you say frame do you have an actual frame or a unibody car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goingdef1310 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I tested the grounds back when I installed the current amp and they both checked as good grounding points with no readable voltage loss from the battery up front to the amp, so I just can't find a reason it's needed but everyone seems to be doing it, also if the ground from the amp is supposed to be 18" or less that's not possible with my amp/battery placement so it seems like frame grounding would make more sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goingdef1310 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I've always grounded both + and - to front and back batteries. Then I did a - ground to the frame on both front and rear batteries. A little overkill but it never hurts to have overkill. As for grounding your amp, it's probably better and easier to ground to the battery. When you say frame do you have an actual frame or a unibody car? Toyota corolla so unibody, but the amps are mounted right behind the back seats and the enclosure is everything behind that all the way to the back, the battery is beside the box at the back of the trunk looking from the inside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afrakes Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Answer: u can ground to either the chassis or the battery. Front to back runs all u need is a positive(or multiple). Then ground each battery (front and back) individually. Ground ur amp to bare metal sanded chassis or the battery negative, whichever results in a shorter run of wire. U can connect the negatives of both front and back batts but imho you won't c a change in voltage if all ur grounds are proper and its just a waste of a perfectly good (and expensive) piece of wire. Vehicle: 2014 GMC Sierra 2500HD WT Head Unit: Pioneer DEH- Mids/Highs: Focal Integration ISC 165’s (front) Subs/Amps: TBD Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goingdef1310 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Answer: u can ground to either the chassis or the battery. Front to back runs all u need is a positive(or multiple). Then ground each battery (front and back) individually. Ground ur amp to bare metal sanded chassis or the battery negative, whichever results in a shorter run of wire. U can connect the negatives of both front and back batts but imho you won't c a change in voltage if all ur grounds are proper and its just a waste of a perfectly good (and expensive) piece of wire. That's what I thought but couldn't find anything in writing or anyone saying the same thing I was thinking! It makes sense if I'm frame ground the rear battery why run a second ground all the way up front? And yea my frame ground location will call for about 1' of wire where as my rear battery would call for about 4' of wire! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goingdef1310 Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 I wanted to get this figured out before Monday, that's when my hydraulic wire crimpers will be in and I can start pulling everything for this rebuild, I'm re wiring everything in fresh wire running monster silver tin ofc 0g a second yellow top, this t2500.1 in place of my t1500.1 and see if I can get this sundown zv4 12" to move a little more! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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