Possible Problem with Mech 240A

[Soccerballzs]

Your rear defrost uses alot of power. My Jeep tonight at 2000 rpm charge voltage is 14.9 to 15 standing idle is 14.6. Batteries standing charge is 14.5. With 320 amp Mechman . PCM controled on jeep also. With your newer model car could be normal. Sometimes you must externally regulate in car audio. Sucks for you though maybe add d3100 in trunk.

[Soccerballzs]

You need more reserve add another XS.

[Ahmed Johnson]

Ah damn, even with a HO alt, the pcm will get in the way?

[MECHMAN]

Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)

Alt 240A Mechman

Big 3

Xs Power Battery D3400

It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.

My voltage after idle down is 13.7

When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0

This is with no stereo running.

When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?

In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.

First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator

[the808path]

Thanks you some much for posting this i have the same motor as your camry and was wondering about this too. I personally think you shouldn't have to buy something extra to install to get what you expected from a high out out alt in the first place. So how much is this AVBM? just curious

[Karkov]

Didn't read all posts but yea this seems normal, PCM controlled for the MF loss man, sucks when you can't even start out at rated 14.4

Mine is very similar, maybe like 13.8 and then when I wang on it don't get below 13.5 with say 3k+ RMS but yea, PCM bullshit is simply that....BS

[hankfan79]

Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)

Alt 240A Mechman

Big 3

Xs Power Battery D3400

It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.

My voltage after idle down is 13.7

When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0

This is with no stereo running.

When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?

In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.

First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator

I have spoke with someone from mechman on a few occasions about this particular alternator and they are always quick to jump into belt slippage. I get insulted every time I hear it. I have used 2 different premium belts. That is not the case. I was also told by someone at Mechman that using this AVBM would cause my battery light to stay on in the car which I do not want. Posted that earlier.. Everything on this install is in tip top shape. Battery, wires, connections are all good. This was a last ditch effort.

Guess I'm just screwed then.

[the808path]

Vehicle: 2012 Toyota Camry (4cyl)

Alt 240A Mechman

Big 3

Xs Power Battery D3400

It is my understanding that the newer Toyota cars are voltage regulated by the PCM. Therefor, I can't change the fact my system doesn't charge where I want it to.

My voltage after idle down is 13.7

When driving around 1700-200rpm the voltage is 14.0

This is with no stereo running.

When lights are turned on the voltage drops and then immediately returns to normal. However, when I turn on the rear defrost, it drops to 13.3 and does not raise back up until I turn it off. To me this doesn't sound right. Am I wrong for thinking that?

In a perfect world I would like 14.4 or close to it to achieve optimal performance from my amps.

First i would look at the alternator to make sure there isn't any signs of belt slip. Then I would look at the battery (check the resting voltage) and cabling to make certain the connections are clean and tight. If neither one is the culprit I would suggest a AVBM which WILL work on that vehicle. The AVBM will give you adjustment capability from 14-16 Volts on the S-series alternator

I have spoke with someone from mechman on a few occasions about this particular alternator and they are always quick to jump into belt slippage. I get insulted every time I hear it. I have used 2 different premium belts. That is not the case. I was also told by someone at Mechman that using this AVBM would cause my battery light to stay on in the car which I do not want. Posted that earlier.. Everything on this install is in tip top shape. Battery, wires, connections are all good. This was a last ditch effort.

Guess I'm just screwed then.

That sucks bro. All i can say is i like my alt to be internally set at 14.8 and for a 240a alt i would expect at least 170-190a at idle and max at 1200-1500k. Thats just me though. 1st off I would as someone suggested and try getting a second battery in there and see what happens with voltage, and make sure its topped off. (2) keep that damn rear defroster off!! and (3) see if Mechman would work out a deal with you for that "AVBM" he suggested which I honestly think should be discussed and/or included with the alt if you have a vehicle with that shitty psm before purchasing. Again my 3 cents.

[the808path]

just because you see 13.1 or even 12.9 doesn't mean you're not getting the 240a out of your alt.. they are selling HO alts rated at amperage not voltage. its like getting pissed at amp manufactures because amp wont give you rated power after impedance rise.. the reason why the ecm controls the voltage is to better your fuel mileage but you're still getting the rated amperage of the alternator just not at the voltage you want.. if you want higher voltage get the avbm and deal with seeing the light.

So if hes at 10v and still getting that 240ap from the alt its cool?

[the808path]

i never said 10 volts.. 12.9 v i seen my expo charge at 12.9v with lights and AC on and after alt getting hot and idle.. 13.2 while driving.. thats with stock alt. HO alt and avbm 14.9 all the time since its not ecm controlled

another reason alts charge lower is because the battery is topped off.. if you keep charging it at higher voltage the batteries wont last long. 13.4 to 13.8 i ideal for longer battery life. thats why you dont buy amps rated at 14 v because most the times you will never see that power

Says who? I'm not going to argue with what your saying about op topic but withy our analogy at the end of each is kinda condescending. A lot of good companies in fact most rate their amps at 14. and nothings wrong with that if you have equipment you drop cash into to support it. Now with that being said wether you like or not ppl want their volts to stay up and its better for their amps. If a amp is rated at 12 thats fkn awesome and would be a better choice and prolly the one i would buy. OH and not all companies build their alts based solely on amp ratings

Edited March 22, 2014 by the808path