Trill Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 Just looking for some help on my electrical setup that will run a Crescendo BC5500D + DC 175.4 Vehicle is a 2007 dodge ram 1500 5.7 hemi D6500 in front D3100 in rear. 2 runs 1/0 of both + and - from front battery to rear with 250A fuse's on + wires Will also be doing big 3 upgrade ---- = 1 run == = 2 runs D6500+======250A=========250A======D3100+ D6500- =============================D3100- D3100+ -----------250A-------------BC5500D +1 D3100+ -----------250A-------------BC5500D +2 D3100- -------------------------------BC5500D -1 D3100- -------------------------------BC5500D -2 D3100- --------------------------------FRAME D3100+ -------------150A-----------DC175.4 + D3100- -------------------------------DC174.4 - I guess my 3 main questions are 1. Should I just ground my amps to the frame or straight to the battery. I have plenty of wire to run to the battery. 2. How big of an alternator do I need for this power? Currently have stock but was thinking of a mechman 320A or 370A but the 370A is $200 more expensive. Hoping a 320 is plenty for this setup. 3. Are the fuses I have here a good choice or am I missing something. Thanks Minnesota! Y U NO GET WARM!
bcbrassard Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 Ground top frame 320 should be enough Fuses look good
Aj11 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 i would say frame,make sure the ground points are a decent length apart. i would run multiple grounds for each battery b before i ran all the Way back up. you could do both. but it will take the shortest easiest path. usually the shorter the run the better, and the 320 should do more then fine. i see allot of people running 4+++w on 250amp ALTs. jvc deck stinger 1800 front hc 2000 kinetic rear 2 runs of 1/0g big 3/4 ct 60.4 2 ct 1400.1 ct EXO 15 d1 lots of deadner type r comps front stage 6 kicker tweets rear stage lots of great stuff coming soon ho alt more bats ct comps for front stage more deadner sweet amp rack lots of L.E.D lights new deck (thinking 80 prs, or flip out)
Trill Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Posted March 21, 2014 So you're saying to run multiple grounds on each battery to frame instead of running grounds straight from battery to battery? Minnesota! Y U NO GET WARM!
Trill Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Posted March 21, 2014 Also another question I forgot to add. Is this electrical strong enough to run the bc5500d at .5 ohm daily? Minnesota! Y U NO GET WARM!
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 Also another question I forgot to add. Is this electrical strong enough to run the bc5500d at .5 ohms daily? not in my opinion. if you added another d3100, maybe. Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
Rich Schenk Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 1. I would do both if you have the wire to spare 2 grounds in the back to frame and 2 grounds to the front batt and 2 grounds off of the front back to the frame. also do big 4. Do 2 runs of pos to back as well 2. I would go with which ever one has better idle 320 one should be fine would think it has better idle. 3. i would do 2 250 ones for each run. Most important Buy more batts and get that HO alt i would go with minimum 2 d3100s but if you have the money go 3-4 d3100s adn buy a voltmeter if you havent yet to keep and eye on voltage or you could blow and amp. On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
Trill Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Posted March 21, 2014 Would 3 or even 4 runs of the 1/0 from front to rear battery help in this case? I have plenty of wire and the runs are going to be pretty short in my truck.. Less than 10' each I think Minnesota! Y U NO GET WARM!
Trill Posted March 21, 2014 Author Report Posted March 21, 2014 I already have a voltmeter in the dash. Minnesota! Y U NO GET WARM!
ChevyBoy95 Posted March 21, 2014 Report Posted March 21, 2014 I would do double frame grounds on the back battery, ground and power the amps right off the rear d3100. Again, if this was my build, i would do 2 runs of positive from the front to the back, 2 d3100's, 2 or 3 1/0 frame grounds on the rear battery as well, with 320a alt. But here is a diagram of what you said.... Best Score to Date : 160.5 dB Outlaw (47Hz)[4 XM 15's & 2 Taramps Bass 12k's] BL : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/147800-chevyboy95s-4-15s-7krms-wall-1533-db-on-half-power/YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/hitemwiththeflex/
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