P4killer_ Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 cutout spec would logically be ok for inverting as the surround isnt going to expand horizontally. but the cutout for each woofer is different its too small it will rub obvio which could cause coil rub fromt he surround being squeezed. the surround obvi wont like it. Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s
axevon Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Posted April 10, 2014 One last thing. I reversed the gasket on the speaker since it was going to be mounted inverted. Has anyone else done this? The only way I could get the screws to reach was to do this but I figured it would be fine since the gasket surface touching the box would be the same surface originally intended to touch the box. I feel like this could be the culprit and the problem is sealing the driver to the box. Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
axevon Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Posted April 10, 2014 cutout spec would logically be ok for inverting as the surround isnt going to expand horizontally. but the cutout for each woofer is different its too small it will rub obvio which could cause coil rub fromt he surround being squeezed. the surround obvi wont like it. The cutout for the SQ woofer is 11.18 while it's 11.12 for the FI woofer so I think there is enough room. Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
P4killer_ Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 If the gasket has raised letter logos on the front of it like some subs, and you reversed it maybe its creating some gaps Setup: 2010 Hyundai Elantra Factory Unit via 4 chan NVX LOC Excessive Amperage "H/O" Alt Xs D3400/ Xs XP3000 Big 3. 2 Runs of +, 2 Runs of - DD M3b and 2 12" AQ HDC4s
axevon Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Posted April 10, 2014 If the gasket has raised letter logos on the front of it like some subs, and you reversed it maybe its creating some gaps The gasket doesn't have raised letters or anything it is completely flat. The reason I reversed it is so the surface of the gasket that was originally intended to seal to the box is still the surface touching the box. My thought that the reversed gasket only helps to seal even better. Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
Tarball Posted April 10, 2014 Report Posted April 10, 2014 what type of wood and what kind of screws? If I was a gambling man i would put money on a bad seal due to over used screw hole. But i suck at gambling. CURRENT SYSTEM: Alternator: Stock alt on mids/highs Isolated DC Power 270 SP - Charging @ 16.8v Batteries: (2) XS D1400s Power Cable: Double Runs of 1/0 KNU Kolossus Fleks Headunit: 80-PRS Sub Amp: DC 5.0k Subwoofers: 2 RE MT 15s /PSI dual .7ohm recones Subwoofer Enclosure: 9.1cubes @ 32hz - brutal. Mids & Highs Amp: CT125.4 Active Components: Mids RE XXX 6.5c Highs - 3 RE XXX tweeters per side(A pillar) Noise Control: Damplifier Pro all over the cab. Build Log If you do business with me please leave feedback here: FEEDBACK THREAD Highest Legal Score: 151.0 db Highest Musical 30 Second Average: 151.6 db
axevon Posted April 10, 2014 Author Report Posted April 10, 2014 Well after bringing it inside to test on my bash home theater amp I found the culprit to be an air leak through the screw holes. Thankfully it is probably the easiest/cheapest/best problem it could have been. I plan on redriling and using T nuts. Does anyone else have better ideas? I know a lot of people here hate T nuts but I am not sure why. Thanks guys for the responses Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
Tecomah Posted April 11, 2014 Report Posted April 11, 2014 T nuts suck. They break and you are screwed 750??! Yeah, fuck that. Fuck this website, fuck SMD, fuck Steve, fuck all of his butt buddy mods, and their couches.^ DON'T BE A DICK LIKE THIS GUY Team Subsonic Lows
axevon Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Posted April 11, 2014 Well what do you use then? I just need something that won't strip like last time. Any suggestions? Dorm room setup: SQ SDC2.5 12" @ 8 ohms Klipsch 300 watt home theater sub amp Marantz 1030 amplifier Future car build: Audio Technix 1200.1d Fi SSD 12 w/ cooling and flatwind coil 6th order dual reflex enclosure
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