1two3 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 i got some MDF that id like to use up but for the double baffle id like to use plywood (im gonna be using t nuts or simular to mount sub) im curious if anyone tried to make a box anything like this before and how it turned out. probly my only concern is if the bond is gonna be strong enough if i glue it will it come apart under pressure? Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jarrius Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 No.... MDF all the way. Ply wood ( from what I understand) can not hold the pressure MDF can. Also I was told it has micro holes all through out it wich make them sound like crap... But could be wrong. But the answer is still no lol 2012 Chevy sonic1xSQ HDC3 12 D2RF R1200d 140 square foot of Q-Mat(soon to be installed) 140.2Db sealed on the dash with TL 142 DB sealed on the dash with another meter (was dead on with the TL at a show i was at) 141 on music. strangeduck,on 02 Jan 2014 - 01:39 AM, said: when my car spins out i just put the car in neutral, turn in the direction i want to go and pucker my asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 What sort of plywood? Particle board? Chip board? Actual multi layer plywood? You say mdf you'd like to use up... Does this mean the rest of your box is built from said plywood? Post box specs/pics and pictures of said wood ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtuner98284 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 From personal build experience I have had no problems building a box out of MDF and adding to the baffle with a hardwood ply like Birch. The only thing I can think of that I may do differently is that I use fiberglass mat and resin to seal the baffle to the box. I know its airtight and secure by doing that. Elmers wood glue works great. Titebond II works great too. Just remember this when it comes to using ply for a sub box. Do not go cheap on the plywood. Cheap plywood flexes too much. It also has the tendency to delaminate. Hardwood ply is stiffer and flexes less. It also weighs less than MDF in most cases. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtuner98284 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I really think I have seen Meade himself using ply for baffles. Oh yeah, don't forget to brace it. It don't matter if you are using mdf or ply. Be sure to brace it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PolishThunder Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 I don't see any problems with using plywood for the baffle if you follow DubTuner's sugestions but I would still recommend using MDF throughout the whole box for sure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigmizzle99 Posted April 10, 2014 Report Share Posted April 10, 2014 Yes, the bond will be strong enough. Glued and screwed. Camaro SS Build Altima build 2.0 Altima build 1.0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1two3 Posted April 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Yea I got 3/4 MDF and I'll be using 3/4 birch 7or more ply (more the merrier) but I'll see what I can get my hands on. I'd be glueing it on top of the cut face (3/4" face) of the mdf.....if that makes sense so screwing won't do anything/be nessesairy. Dubtuner: Do u mean to fiberglass the plywood peices/baffles to EACH OTHER or to the MDF? Car: 2000 Honda CRV Battery: XS Power D5100R Alternator: Stock 90A Head Unit: Pioneer DEH-X9500BHS Front Speakers: Alpine Type S Rear Speakers: JBL GTO 628's Wires: All Knu 4g. Soon to be 0g. Big 3 in 0g Volt Meter: SMD VM-1 Amps: Rockford Fosgate T400-2, T1000-1bdCP Subs: 2 SSA XCON 15's Sealed Tint: Privacy glass + 5% in the back and 25% in fronts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnowDrifter Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Yeah that shouldn't be an issue. Glue it, clamp it, wait a day. Should be good to go ~~~~~~~~SAY NO TO PHOTOBUCKET~~~~~~~~ Snow's DD-1 tracks here: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167433-snows-dd-1-tracks/ My take on OFC vs CCA: https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/110381-things-that-piss-you-off-in-the-car-audio-world/?do=findComment&comment=2461444 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dubtuner98284 Posted April 11, 2014 Report Share Posted April 11, 2014 Dubtuner: Do u mean to fiberglass the plywood peices/baffles to EACH OTHER or to the MDF? I was referring to fiber glassing if you planned on using pure ply for the baffle. I always glass over the seam between the ply and the mdf. Matter of fact, I usually glass all the seams in a box. Even when I glue and nail the mdf. I have a hard time trusting silicone and feel that a resin seal is always better. Just a personal preference. You don't have to if you don't want to. Glassing is easy. Just make sure to precut your mat and don't mix more resin than you can use in 5 minutes. Bondo makes a good resin and mat that you can pick up just about anywhere. (AKA Walmart) You shouldn't need more than a quart for most enclosures. Perhaps I am being too picky... When you are building your box, are you building a MDF box and then attaching Plywood to the front for stiffening? If this is the case, you should build you box as normal, then spread wood glue all over the front liberally, then use 1 and 1/4 brads or finish nails to secure the wood until bonded. If you are using screws, be sure to clearance drill and countersink the plywood. Clearance drilling is choosing a drill bit that is the same size or a hair larger than the threaded part of the screw. This is so the plywood gets pulled tightly into the MDF and glue. Make sure to stay at least 3 inches in from the edges to avoid splitting the MDF. Good luck and have fun building. Tip of the day. If you don't have a table saw, a lot of Home Depot stores do cutting for cheap or free. If you aren't making a complex box, the cuts are straighter and cleaner than most people can do with a circular saw. With a good cut plan, even .50 cents a cut is invaluable when compared to the amount of time you save in assembly, and the quality of the joint when glued. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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