Nubster Posted April 26, 2014 Report Posted April 26, 2014 I recently installed a Rockford Fosgate R150x2 Prime amp. It's rated at 50w @ 4ohm and 75w @ 2ohm which by my mistake I didn't realize that and I thought it was 75w @ 4ohm. So I'm getting less power to my new Pioneers than I thought...which isn't a big deal because they are still plenty loud and clear. Anyways...I'm waiting on more speaker wire so I can hook up the tweeters. I have the woofers in the door and the stock tweeters still in the dash off the headunit. Well, I was thinking last night about maybe installing a set of 4" speakers (if they'll fit) in the stock tweeter location and installing the new tweeters in the a-pillar. My first question is...if I do this, should I get a 2-way speaker with a tweeter or a 4" woofer and let the new Pioneer tweeter pull high duties alone? Second question...how would I wire the 4" speaker into the system? I'd think since it would allow me to drop the load to 2ohm, I should do that to get more power from the amp...but how would I run the wires to achieve this? To the 6.5" woofers, to the component's crossover, directly to the amp? Sorry about the newb question...I've never installed a system with more than one set of speakers on a channel (not including subs but those are easy). Thanks.
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 26, 2014 Report Posted April 26, 2014 First to answer your questions, and then some advice...... If your components crossover is 4 ohm and your 4" speaker is 4 ohm, then the amp will see 2 ohm. In regards to the 4" for simplicity go with a coaxial (if you are set on doing it) so you don't have to bandpass the speaker. A problem you run into there is that your 6.5 mid on your component set will most likely play lower than the 4" so you will have to set xovers to either take away bottom end from the 6.5 or play the 4" too low. One robs you of sound quality and the other endangers your speaker. If it were me, I would just keep it as is for the time being. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Nubster Posted April 26, 2014 Author Report Posted April 26, 2014 So how would I run the wires from the 4"? To the crossover to the woofer output? What about adding bass blockers to the 4"? Something to block out 150 Hz and below? The ones I was looking at have a frequency range as low as 100 Hz. I'm just kinda thinking outloud here right now...not sure I will try this or not.
rockFord_Expedition Posted April 26, 2014 Report Posted April 26, 2014 Don't wire anything extra to your xover for your components. Only what they came with, nothing more nothing less. Old School/New School RF Build March 2015 SOTM Winner How to crimp large wire
Nubster Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Posted April 28, 2014 Thinking about going a different direction instead of the dash speakers. I think I might just throw a set of coaxials in the rear door for just a slightest bit or rear fill or when the kids are watching a dvd I can fade the sound to the rear. Main reason is to lower the ohm load on the amp to get more power to the front components. So, could I get some recommendations on a cheapish set of 6.5" coaxials that can handle 75w RMS? Thinking about trying to stay around $50 here or less.
Krakin Posted April 28, 2014 Report Posted April 28, 2014 Don't worry about wiring down to 2-ohms, the smallest step increase that can be heard is 1-3 dB varying per person while playing a pure tone. While to increase 3 dB you need to double wattage. With music it will be even harder to hear a difference. Krakin's Home Dipole Project http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370 Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist? I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . . What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself but what has drawn your attention in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears, thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.
Nubster Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Posted April 28, 2014 So you don't think that and additional 25w RMS to the front components will make much difference?
White Lightning Posted April 28, 2014 Report Posted April 28, 2014 So you don't think that and additional 25w RMS to the front components will make much difference?You will not notice a major difference. You may notice a little added distortion though ... Kenwood / HELIX / Linear Power (For The Love Of Music) / Brutal Sounds / OverKill Electric Co Questions About Sound Quality ?? Try Here ... Sound Quality, What does it REALLY mean ?? SMD SOTM Winner "White Lightning" 1997 GMT400 Chevy Silverado "The Green Dickle" 1994 GMT400 Chevy "Phantom Dually" Randal's 2007 Chevy Avalanche (we haven't named this one yet) Dylan's "Brutal" 17 Chevy Cruze RS Hatch
Rck'nRF Posted April 28, 2014 Report Posted April 28, 2014 Keep in mind OP that Rockford always UNDER rates their amp outputs.. my best guess is that your 150 prime is probably capable of doing somewhere of 80-95/watts/ch at 4ohms currently, and probably 130-150watt/ch @ 2ohms
Nubster Posted April 28, 2014 Author Report Posted April 28, 2014 So you don't think that and additional 25w RMS to the front components will make much difference?You will not notice a major difference. You may notice a little added distortion though ... Distortion from the additional power or from not adding the power?
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