cgrez33 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Posted April 30, 2014 My front drivers door been having a couple of issues. When I turn on my car and put it in reverse the beeps go off and center light stays on as if the door is open and as soon as I begin driving the light turns off.. While I'm driving if I lock the door by using the switch on the drivers side door all doors will lock but the drivers side door will lock and unlock. (If I do this same test with the car off it'll lock the drivers door just fine). I've also noticed every now and then all my button light will be off (everything still works) and they'll randomly turn on. Anyone have any ideas what's going on? Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT
youngbass98 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Posted April 30, 2014 I would take the panel off and look for anything unusual like loose of disconnected wires 06 monte carlo 2 12 rockford p3s soundstream rubicon 2500 crescendo audio mezzo 6.5 ct sounds 125.4 execution audio and shca wiring 2 xs d3400 on stock alt
cgrez33 Posted April 30, 2014 Author Report Posted April 30, 2014 Yeah that's what I plan on doing this weekend I think the sensor? that tells the door its closed is messed up and might need replacing. Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT
n8ball2013 Posted April 30, 2014 Report Posted April 30, 2014 What kind of car. The lock unlock thing happens in alot of cars. You may have a bad door pin. Have you tried sitting fr an extended period of time before driving off. THERE IS NO BUILD LOG! 1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab Alpine CDA-9887 4 Team Fi 15s 2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0 2 Ampere Audio 150.4 3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound! 8 XS Power d3400 6 XS power d680 Second Skin Stinger Tsunami Wiring Sky High A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.
hdorre Posted April 30, 2014 Report Posted April 30, 2014 On my platform, its commonly caused by a rubber bushing in the locking mechanism. On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
cgrez33 Posted May 2, 2014 Author Report Posted May 2, 2014 What kind of car. The lock unlock thing happens in alot of cars. You may have a bad door pin. Have you tried sitting fr an extended period of time before driving off. 2005 Pontiac G6 GT and yup. Only way it turns off is once I begin driving. When I turn off the car and leave it the center light will stay on a couple of minutes before turning off. On my platform, its commonly caused by a rubber bushing in the locking mechanism. I think this may be my issue. It's always something lol. Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT
cgrez33 Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Posted May 15, 2014 Just got my car back from the dealer whom I paid $127 for a diagnostics. They told me it would be $587 to repair the door lock actuator. Which MAY fix the issue, but this is the first step into many because the car has 22 codes in the body control module. Current Build: 1999 Tahoe #ComingSoon Previous Build(s): Crossfire Magnum 5k Pontiac G6 GT
Rich Schenk Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Ouch I would try and replace it your self that's expensive On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said: Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science... Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/ 2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/ 2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded
FuriousG Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 Yikes, book time on an actuator is only 1.0, and our actuators are only $140 here (just went and checked). If I were you I'd get the actuator(or an aftermarket one) and install yourself. Very simple job. As for the body codes, unless you have noticed any other strange things going on that bother you, just ignore them.
xxgokouxx Posted May 15, 2014 Report Posted May 15, 2014 I'm unsure if this has been mentioned here,,,, but on my Lexus subforum, folks have had SIMILAR problems. I can imagine it is the rubber sensor in your door jam. That piece costs us lexus owners, I believe $15 a piece, shouldn't cost you much more if you have the same thing. EDIT: Here's an example piece (not on MY car). http://www.ebay.com/itm/LEXUS-IS300-DOOR-LATCH-JAM-SENSOR-AJAR-REAR-LEFT-RIGHT-STOCK-FACTORY-OEM-77-/360695656025?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fb22ee59&vxp=mtr I was told, FWIW, by the dealer, that half the time you can grease it up and it'll start working again
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