Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Have 2 subs but they move opposite of eachother


Recommended Posts

For the wiring going from terminal cup to terminal cup change it.

either wire both to the amp separately (what I would do) or

neg of left terminal cup to neg of right terminal then neg to amp.

pos of right term cup to left term cup then to amp. I prefer all speaker wires to be of the same length when doing multiple subs to one amp. Always been told if not then one sub might move slightly different.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the wiring going from terminal cup to terminal cup change it.

either wire both to the amp separately (what I would do) or

neg of left terminal cup to neg of right terminal then neg to amp.

pos of right term cup to left term cup then to amp. I prefer all speaker wires to be of the same length when doing multiple subs to one amp. Always been told if not then one sub might move slightly different.

all of the wire should be the same length, i had them both wired seperately to the amp before the audio storeguy told me to change it, and when you mean terminal cup do you mean on the sub or on the box? never heard that term before, terminal cup

Subs - Dual RE Audio SXX v2 15D4 wired at 1 ohm

Door Speakers - RE REX 5x7/6x9

Battery - Kinetik HC 2000

Sub Amp - Crescendo BC2000

Door Amp - Alpine MRP-F300
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X8600BS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the length of wire to be able to change the time alignment of the speaker it is going to, it must be of significant length.

b_350_20_692108_381007_FFFFFF_000000.png

Krakin's Home Dipole Project

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186153-krakins-dipole-project-new-reciever-in-rockford-science/#entry2772370

Krakin, are you some sort of mad scientist?

I would have replied earlier, but I was measuring the output of my amp with a yardstick . . .

What you hear is not the air pressure variation in itself

but what has drawn your attention

in the two streams of superimposed air pressure variations at your eardrums

An acoustic event has dimensions of Time, Tone, Loudness and Space

Everyone learns to render the 3-dimensional localization of sound based on the individual shape of their ears,

thus no formula can achieve a definite effect for every listener.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black pieces on the box the wires attach to is called a terminal cub.

I and most others don't like them. The great a weak point/air leak source. I prefer drilling holes barely big enough to really force the wires through and I put some glue/sealant around the holes to keep it airtight. Others use bolts and washers.

t1500bdcp

2 t2d4 15"

1 t600.4

1 t400.2

1 set p1 tweets

singer alt, tons of wiring, smd vm-1, 80prs, back seat delete, still in the works, aiming for a 145-147 with the ability to play 25hz up to 50hz.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The black pieces on the box the wires attach to is called a terminal cub.

I and most others don't like them. The great a weak point/air leak source. I prefer drilling holes barely big enough to really force the wires through and I put some glue/sealant around the holes to keep it airtight. Others use bolts and washers.

ohhh ok i see what you mean, why dont i just wire the subs together and just use one terminal cup to the amp like in this diag http://a248.e.akamai.net/pix.crutchfield.com/ca/learningcenter/car/subwoofer_wiring/2-DVC-4-ohm-mono-low-imp.jpg

and the box is a prefab box "tuned" to 40 hz

Subs - Dual RE Audio SXX v2 15D4 wired at 1 ohm

Door Speakers - RE REX 5x7/6x9

Battery - Kinetik HC 2000

Sub Amp - Crescendo BC2000

Door Amp - Alpine MRP-F300
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X8600BS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your amp is a mono amp but it has 2 speaker inputs for ease of wiring. Since you have two terminal cups you could wire each subwoofer separately to each terminal cup and then separately into each terminal on the amp and your amp will see the same load. I.E. if you have D4 subs and wire each at 2 then run them both into your amp using both positives and both negatives your amps see's 1 ohm as it should.

That's what I would do but you have the same thing just wired differently. Personal preference. To me, my way is less confusing if you have an amp like that that gives you the option, plus two terminal cups.

Tuned in for the fix in the end.......

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your amp is a mono amp but it has 2 speaker inputs for ease of wiring. Since you have two terminal cups you could wire each subwoofer separately to each terminal cup and then separately into each terminal on the amp and your amp will see the same load. I.E. if you have D4 subs and wire each at 2 then run them both into your amp using both positives and both negatives your amps see's 1 ohm as it should.

That's what I would do but you have the same thing just wired differently. Personal preference. To me, my way is less confusing if you have an amp like that that gives you the option, plus two terminal cups.

Tuned in for the fix in the end.......

thats how i had it the first time but i was told to change it lol ill change it back cause it was cleaner that way, but it doesnt fix the out of sync problem like with lower bass i can hear it conflicting with eachother cause the subs moves more air and it soudns dirty, i hate dirty bass so much i want it gone

Subs - Dual RE Audio SXX v2 15D4 wired at 1 ohm

Door Speakers - RE REX 5x7/6x9

Battery - Kinetik HC 2000

Sub Amp - Crescendo BC2000

Door Amp - Alpine MRP-F300
Head Unit - Pioneer DEH-X8600BS

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Find a better "audio storeguy" that knows what he's doing. Someone that knows that they were doing could get you straightened out in 5 minutes. Both subs are mounted in the box normally, right? Like one isn't inverted(magnet out) and the other is cone side out right?

All negatives go the the negative on the amp, all positives go to the positive on the amp. If this is done, your problem should be fixed. Knowing if the terminals are possibly labeled incorrectly needs to be done by as professional since you don't have the tools or knowledge to do so.

Hopefully someone from this forum can meet up with you and help.

Also, that amp can draw upwards 200A. A , 100A fuse could potentially blow if the amp tries to pull more current than it will allow. It won't blow right away, and may never blow, but a 200A fuse would be a better route if your wire is properly sized. What size is that wire going from the front to the rear where the amp is?

Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Maybe you are sending a distorted signal and one sub is taking it better than the other?

I am really not sure. No offense but you said the audio guy couldn't "see" what you were talking about but you listened to him when it came to changing your wires?

So you can hear AND see the subs doing different things? You said they sound bad? How do the coils look? Have you blown subs in the past? Has anyone else looked at it in person and what have they said? With everything off if you push down on the subs do you feel/hear a scraping sound?

I am no expert but if you are absolutely sure the wiring is correct then it's gonna be something else. Play just one sub at a time and see if it sounds *correct/right/good* to you?

2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD)

12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option

2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67

3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 

2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet)

1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4

4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps  (rear fill only)

1 ~ XS Power D4800

1 ~ XS Power D3400

8 ~ XS Power XP3000

160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power

320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener

Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS

Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1129 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...