SlamminBeats Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 i believe rod its self is weaker but the way you can brace with the rod is better for structure strenght. I did the poles for internal bracing and i love them. Rod sucks especially when you have to cut them with a flywheel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 i believe rod its self is weaker but the way you can brace with the rod is better for structure strenght. I did the poles for internal bracing and i love them. Rod sucks especially when you have to cut them with a flywheel. put the nut on first, cut with a cutoff wheel on the grinder, spin nut off to fix threads. easy Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlamminBeats Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 i believe rod its self is weaker but the way you can brace with the rod is better for structure strenght. I did the poles for internal bracing and i love them. Rod sucks especially when you have to cut them with a flywheel. put the nut on first, cut with a cutoff wheel on the grinder, spin nut off to fix threads. easy i meant the actual cutting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted May 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 You must be alot stronger than I am because I couldnt bend 3/4 Sorry I meant flex it, I didn't actually mean bend it out of shape. I'm actually going to use 3/4 for baffle to back of wall since the distance is only 2 and a half feet or so, but from the side of the wall to the other side is a full 4 foot sheet of MDF (49 inches). Just trying to be safe and get the biggest size rod I can find for that big of a distance Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
never knows best Posted May 13, 2014 Report Share Posted May 13, 2014 How many peopke do you see actually plate the flange though? In that case id agree that the pipe and flange would be stronger but you never realy see it done like that exactly, if used correctly..... threaded rod is actually far inferior to the tube in many ways. same principle applies to tubular construction. you will never see a solid bar used in a structure exhibiting the forces you would see in a subwoofer enclosure. (ie. a bike frame) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 If installed properly, the threaded rod is more than enough. Comparing a bike frame to a subwoofer box application is not a good comparison; the forces are occurring in different directions on a bike. The subwoofer box is a direct push/pull. I have used 3/4" on every wall I have built and never had any issues. Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FCS530 Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 I have seen 1" rod at the steel supply places. You might try somewhere like that. Several systems, several vehicles. Always changing! 2013 MECA State Champion (trunk 1) 2014 MECA State Champion (mod 4) 2014 MECA state Champion (Park and Pound 4) 2014 DBDRAG 6th place North America Finals (SS1-2) 2014 BASS RACE 6th place North America Finals (139.9) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jessica Posted May 15, 2014 Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 wait, your box is 24X49Xwhat? i mean, is your entire wall enclosure 1 layer all around? you said you need 52" and your wall is 48" wide, so 48+3/4+3/4 is 49.5 and add .75 for each side for threads and you have 52" you need more than one layer of baffle and walls rather than using 54 threaded rods as bracing. just my .02 Rest in peace, walled 87 accord build log 03' Corolla build with AA Mayhem inside. My super random youtube channel and terrible camera work. Wiring comparison by CaptainzPlanetz Wire and fuse guide by Guest SyKo13 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sergeant_Skyrim Posted May 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2014 wait, your box is 24X49Xwhat? i mean, is your entire wall enclosure 1 layer all around? you said you need 52" and your wall is 48" wide, so 48+3/4+3/4 is 49.5 and add .75 for each side for threads and you have 52" you need more than one layer of baffle and walls rather than using 54 threaded rods as bracing. just my .02 It's double layered all around with 3/4, with 5 baffles (one of them being a flush mount for the lips of subs + port so not sure if you want to count that). I meant the outer dimensions of wall is as wide as a sheet of wood (49), but the internal is 45.75 I believe (baffles sit over on one edge a quarter inch as of now). I was more concerned with that 4 foot distance across the wall though being too wide for 3/4 thick all thread to sit in there without flexing/resonating at certain frequencies. It sounds like the consensus is that it should be fine though so thanks for the help guys! Build in progress Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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