12" DC Solo hX2v.3 Subwoofer Build Log

[Purplehaze]

On that note, I'd like to see some graphs or T/S parameters(which is easier since I can then predict how the driver will work and make my own graphs).

Every good subwoofer has been engineered in a good FEA simulation program, after that it get's changed because it will never be 100% correct.

So after about 2-3 changes if you know what you are doing and/or get lucky you get a good subwoofer where the parts work perfectly together for 1 specific goal and offcourse everything else is a compromise.

I have spent the last two years learning the art of building subs. I put together 50+ subs before I ever claimed to know what I was doing. I have learned through actual trail and error. Now, I am confident I know exactly what I'm doing, and every build is specific, not just me getting "lucky" and getting a good sub every now and then.

May I ask who you are, and what makes you think my work is not right? Because I do it at home? Cause I don't have a brand/ logo? (don't worry that's all coming very, very soon).

Please explain to me what is not right about anything I have done or said, then I'll post up some graphs and numbers, even though I have nothing to prove to you in particular.

Also I'm sure you already know this, but getting #'s (or t/s specs) from a sub that isn't broke-in is absolutely worthless, because of how drastically they change after break-in. No manufacturers use fresh built subs to pull specs from. But I have some from my punch 10's I can post up. Actually, I have before and after break-in #'s from them, to prove my point about that.

I don't claim to be better than anyone else, nor do I claim to do anything better than anyone else. And I don't go around questioning other peoples knowledge when they are simply sharing projects to help and entertain others. And I'd appreciate the same courtesy as well.

[MrBigs63']

On that note, I'd like to see some graphs or T/S parameters(which is easier since I can then predict how the driver will work and make my own graphs).

Every good subwoofer has been engineered in a good FEA simulation program, after that it get's changed because it will never be 100% correct.

So after about 2-3 changes if you know what you are doing and/or get lucky you get a good subwoofer where the parts work perfectly together for 1 specific goal and offcourse everything else is a compromise.

I have spent the last two years learning the art of building subs. I put together 50+ subs before I ever claimed to know what I was doing. I have learned through actual trail and error. Now, I am confident I know exactly what I'm doing, and every build is specific, not just me getting "lucky" and getting a good sub every now and then.

May I ask who you are, and what makes you think my work is not right? Because I do it at home? Cause I don't have a brand/ logo? (don't worry that's all coming very, very soon).

Please explain to me what is not right about anything I have done or said, then I'll post up some graphs and numbers, even though I have nothing to prove to you in particular.

Also I'm sure you already know this, but getting #'s (or t/s specs) from a sub that isn't broke-in is absolutely worthless, because of how drastically they change after break-in. No manufacturers use fresh built subs to pull specs from. But I have some from my punch 10's I can post up. Actually, I have before and after break-in #'s from them, to prove my point about that.

I don't claim to be better than anyone else, nor do I claim to do anything better than anyone else. And I don't go around questioning other peoples knowledge when they are simply sharing projects to help and entertain others. And I'd appreciate the same courtesy as well.

Can I be the first in the Purplehaze nuthugger club? Awesome subs! I will vouch for that. This is not his first time.

[kirill007]

On that note, I'd like to see some graphs or T/S parameters(which is easier since I can then predict how the driver will work and make my own graphs).

Every good subwoofer has been engineered in a good FEA simulation program, after that it get's changed because it will never be 100% correct.

So after about 2-3 changes if you know what you are doing and/or get lucky you get a good subwoofer where the parts work perfectly together for 1 specific goal and offcourse everything else is a compromise.

I have spent the last two years learning the art of building subs. I put together 50+ subs before I ever claimed to know what I was doing. I have learned through actual trail and error. Now, I am confident I know exactly what I'm doing, and every build is specific, not just me getting "lucky" and getting a good sub every now and then.

May I ask who you are, and what makes you think my work is not right? Because I do it at home? Cause I don't have a brand/ logo? (don't worry that's all coming very, very soon).

Please explain to me what is not right about anything I have done or said, then I'll post up some graphs and numbers, even though I have nothing to prove to you in particular.

Also I'm sure you already know this, but getting #'s (or t/s specs) from a sub that isn't broke-in is absolutely worthless, because of how drastically they change after break-in. No manufacturers use fresh built subs to pull specs from. But I have some from my punch 10's I can post up. Actually, I have before and after break-in #'s from them, to prove my point about that.

I don't claim to be better than anyone else, nor do I claim to do anything better than anyone else. And I don't go around questioning other peoples knowledge when they are simply sharing projects to help and entertain others. And I'd appreciate the same courtesy as well.

So you engineer them and use FEA programs to simulate the subwoofers? (probably not since you didn't asnwer it)

I really don't care for you not having a brand(there are enough brands that are worth nothing) or work at home, the best have started like that. I reacted because you said they work PERFECTLY, I would like to know for what goal do they work "perfectly"?

I never said this subwoofer was junk or even that you don't know what you are doing, I just would like you to tell me why you think it works perfectly and the goals you had in mind making these subs. (or even why you used parts of other subwoofers)

It's the wording that I dislike, not that you are doing this.

Who I am?

Does that matter? I'm just someone who enjoys audio and (usually) knows how it works. ( I don't want to say too much, because I don't know how to put it without "bragging")

Red: I really don't need you to prove that to me as I've already known this for quite a while.

[Purplehaze]

Okay, well then sure, I will share this info with you. And no I don't use an FEA program to simulate the woofers. I use the Dayton Audio Test System, or DATS, to get t/s parameters and a graph, and this is all I can show you or anyone else.

Purpose:
This sub was built to be a musical daily sub, that can also hold up to competition abuse and put out good numbers, as well as good sounding music daily. It was built for 1200 watts RMS daily, and 5K burps. The reason I stated it was a "perfect mix of parts" is because almost one whole year went into resourcing the parts, making sure each one is suitable for the desired use. And when the sub was finally assembled, everything went together perfectly, as if they were solely meant for this sub in particular. The coil absolutely could not fit any better. The spiders are perfect for the desired operation of the moving mass, not too stiff, not too soft. The cone, well most all Sundown cones work well in most any application.

And since this sub has only seen minimum play time, these #'s are not accurate. (As you already know) I will gladly post the new #'s once the sub is broke-in properly.

Also I always test twice, once using the "added mass method" and once using the "known mass method". Here are both results.

* This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System
*
* Manufacturer: Trent Stover (Purplehaze)
* Model: 12" RF Solo hX2v3
* Piston Diameter = 257.2 mm
* f(s)= 43.74 Hz
* R(e)= 3.87 Ohms
* Z(max)= 42.03 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 5.412
* Q(es)= 0.549
* Q(ts)= 0.499
* V(as)= 29.550 liters (1.044 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 5.03 mH
* n(0)= 0.43 %
* SPL= 88.43 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 169.80 grams
* C(ms)= 0.08 mm/N
* BL= 18.15

* This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System
*
* Manufacturer: Trent Stover (Purplehaze)
* Model: 12" RF Solo hX2v3
* Piston Diameter = 257.2 mm
* f(s)= 43.74 Hz
* R(e)= 3.88 Ohms
* Z(max)= 48.99 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 6.420
* Q(es)= 0.553
* Q(ts)= 0.509
* V(as)= 20.570 liters (0.726 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 5.04 mH
* n(0)= 0.30 %
* SPL= 86.82 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 264.80 grams
* C(ms)= 0.05 mm/N
* BL= 22.61

What other subs would you like to see numbers for? Here is the Punch 10's I built, after break-in.

* This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System
*
* Manufacturer: Trent Stover (Purplehaze)
* Model: 10" custom HX2 Punch
* Piston Diameter = 231.8 mm
* f(s)= 37.68 Hz
* R(e)= 4.11 Ohms
* Z(max)= 59.99 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 9.023
* Q(es)= 0.663
* Q(ts)= 0.618
* V(as)= 25.790 liters (0.911 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 5.89 mH
* n(0)= 0.20 %
* SPL= 85.08 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 173.00 grams
* C(ms)= 0.10 mm/N
* BL= 15.93

Here are the 12" AP's, the first #'s are un-touched (OEM)

* This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System
*
* Manufacturer: AudioPipe
* Model: TXX12
* Piston Diameter = 238.8 mm
* f(s)= 35.66 Hz
* R(e)= 7.33 Ohms
* Z(max)= 62.08 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 4.652
* Q(es)= 0.623
* Q(ts)= 0.549
* V(as)= 31.320 liters (1.106 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 6.59 mH
* n(0)= 0.22 %
* SPL= 85.47 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 179.00 grams
* C(ms)= 0.11 mm/N
* BL= 21.72

Here is the same sub, with my parts, after break-in.

* This data was exported from DATS the Dayton Audio Test System
*
* Manufacturer: Trent Stover (Purplehaze)
* Model: AP TXX12
* Piston Diameter = 254.0 mm
* f(s)= 36.34 Hz
* R(e)= 6.56 Ohms
* Z(max)= 65.01 Ohms
* Q(ms)= 4.861
* Q(es)= 0.546
* Q(ts)= 0.491
* V(as)= 40.430 liters (1.428 cubic feet)
* L(e)= 6.91 mH
* n(0)= 0.34 %
* SPL= 87.40 1W/1m
* M(ms)= 171.10 grams
* C(ms)= 0.11 mm/N
* BL= 21.67


I have lots and lots of #'s, so just let me know if there are any other subs I've built that you wish to see # for.