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MrBigs63'

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Everything posted by MrBigs63'

  1. By far the cleanest and strongest looking speaker adapters I have seen. I think a few manufacturers that include adapters with there speakers should take some hints.
  2. If you have the proper space in the trunk to do four then go ahead. As long as the box is the proper size and is well built, it should sound fine either way. As for Lanzar amps I just feel that they are pretty low quality. My experience with them through my customers who use them has not been good. A lot of people run them though and they seem to work fine for most people. Just seems to me like you are buying some really nice quality subs and skimping out on the amp. That's just my two cents though. I would personally use 2 12s over 4 10s. Mainly for the fact that you won't have to double your power.
  3. Besides using a Lanzar amp that sounds just fine to me. Anything specifically that you need an opinion on?
  4. Been here since June 18, 2012. I'm from Batesville Arkansas. Mainly a lurker. Love to spend time here when I have the time do so.
  5. For the price you pay for a BDS they are quality in my opinion. They have a lifetime replacement warranty that is a "if you can break it we will replace it" kind of thing. It isn't a bulletproof, cognito, or a rize, but it also doesn't cost 5k+.
  6. Well it is just butyl rubber and coated aluminum. I wouldn't apply it underwater, but I would say you could classify it as "waterproof."
  7. You can take the AMM-1 off of mine. Ended up having to get rid of it. You can add CC-1, Hydraulic Crimpers,and Oscope. Thnaks man. Glad you took this thing over. As for the new CD JMAC I would shoot Steve an email.
  8. I know. That is why I asked for the parameter for the old Level 2 8s. The woofer hasn't had all to much changed on it. I don't really need to know exact TS specs. All I need to know is just the xmax for the old Level 2. I am just trying to find out how big of a port that I need for two of them so that I am not going to have any port noise.
  9. I know changing things changes the specs. I was just looking for the originals to get some sort of baseline. I can't afford as IM-SG yet. Lol
  10. Hey guys when I am getting back from college I am building a box for two custom built DC Level 2 8s. I was just wondering if anyone new of the ts parameters for them. I know that these won't have the same parameters as the originals, but they should be close enough. They are no longer on DC's website, and I can't seem to find them anywhere else. Kind of wanted to know so that I could properly check the port velocity that I would be seeing. If I can't find them, would you guys think that a 4in octo would be okay? Just going to be 2 8's on about 600 watts. I am asking because I just used the TS specs from the M3-8, and according to WINISD, I will be seeing 145 ft/sec port velocity with 2 8s in a 1.5 cube box with a 4 inch aero. That can't be right? Thanks, Sawyer
  11. Sweet Steve. I watched it on mobile at first, and saw that it said P1-12s and I was like what? Lol I see that he fixed in with an annotation though. Looks and sounds great. It is awesome that he is proud enough to want to make videos and share them!
  12. Yes, this is what I want. I'm wondering in optimally sized boxes, how much more extra output the 18 is able to put out over the 15. For me, both subs will be undersized. Think 16'' cube for the 15'' and 19'' cube for the 18''. I know it is not optimal, but size is pretty important. I'll try to mitigate as many problems as I can by throwing power and using EQ. If you are planning on running either sub in an undersized box you will probably be dissapointed. If you can't fit a 15 properly then I would just go for a 12. It is one of those things that you are spending more money for a sub that is built capable to reach a higher output, but if you don't supply it with what it needs to reach that output then you are just wasting your money and potentially harming your equipment. Do some reading. Do a lot of measuring. See what you can practically fit, and go from there. Also if by EQ you mean boosting the lower frequencies. You need to be very careful. It is very easy to introduce clipping, and you can easily fry your woofers. Also like stated above, this site has a clear rule about vs. threads. Good potential this is going to get locked up by a mod.
  13. Have you checked to see if the device you are playing the songs off of is sending a clipped signal to the head unit?
  14. I hate this soooo much. Lol It is my own fault though. I never remember how to undo it, so I end up just having to go through every loop and untangling my wadded up mess.
  15. Sorry I am just now posting again. One thing that I was meaning to tell you was that as far as the Rockfords go, I would have to buy Sundowns over them after this price increase. $360 for a set of T2s is just over the top for me for the quality compared to other stuff like Hertz, Audison, and stuff like that. One thing I didn't mention was that I listen to a LOT of mainly old rock music, so I like my tweets to be pretty bright. I personally like what a lot of people call a little harsh with the music I listen too.
  16. I have a set running in my old Volvo on a Sundown Sax-100.2. I like them, and they are good Sundown quality, they do look kind of plain though. Sure not for someone who likes a flashy install. The main thing that I have to say about them is that mine just seemed liked they had something missing. I guess they just seemed hollow is the best way to put it. It might be my own fault in the way they are installed (in about .2 cube boxes). They are nice and smooth, and they sound good, just like I said they seem kind of hollow to me compared to my T2 Rockfords.
  17. As for the enclosure DC suggests that you should run the both of them in 2.5ft^3 ported. I would stick with that number. As for tuning, what type of music do you mainly listen to or plan on listening to with this system?
  18. Not trying to be a prude, but you kind of posted this in the wrong section. Should be posted in subwoofers and enclosures.
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