norteno Posted May 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2014 So what I'm hearing is that both stock or high output alternator will drop voltage when they get hot? Mine starts out cold at about 14.4 or so and just like you said, it kicks down to 13. 4 - 6 and keeps getting lower until it gets to the mid to lower 12s. And he engine RPMs are 600 to 650 at idle. So what is the real problem I wonder too low RPMs or bad alternator?? The dude took it apart and said the brushes and stator, diodes and rectifier all checked out. I'm going to put it in this weekend and test drive it. I'll post my results. Thanks for all the feedback. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dharris2488 Posted June 1, 2014 Report Share Posted June 1, 2014 Is there any way I can have the ECU, or whatever controls the voltage, "flashed" and have them set the voltage to 14.4-6? Or, is the ECU only allowing the alternator to charge around 13.5 for battery protection? The reason I ask this is, I've checked my voltage in the morning, after my car has been sitting at least 12 hours, most of the time more, and my voltage reads 12.8 to 12.9... So, it obvious that my batteries are being charged properly, but it really sucks because I can't get the most from my alternator/or amplifiers! I guess I will have to either buy an amp with a regulated power supply, or buy an amp that is technically overrated for my application, so I can take into affect the lower voltage and therefore, less wattage. 2013 Toyota Camry SE 240a MechMan HO Alternator 1/0 Welding Flex Cable Big 3 CT Sounds 4000.1D Kenwood XR400-4 Mid/High Amp SoundQubed Q4-120 Mid Amp Infinity Kappa 6.5 components Kappa 6x9's for rear deck fill (coming out) (4) 8" PRV 8MB450's Set of SoundQubed SuperTweets (2) DSS Ethos 12's D2's @32.5hz (building 4th order enclosure) (2) SQ HDC3 10's @ 33.5hz (current build, loving them) Pioneer AVH-X4600BT 100 sq/ft Stinger RoadKill Sound Deadner 120 sq/ft QMat Sound Deadener (4) Juice Box Black Cherries Lots and Lots of feet of SHCA wire, along with 50' of Welding 1/0 2 Runs of 1/0 Positive front to back ToolMaker Everywhere Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norteno Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 How do you post pictures on this site?? Can't figure it out. Help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 upload the pic to photobucket. when viewing the pic on photobucket, on the right there will be an image url. copy the url and paste into the comment box on here Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norteno Posted June 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 Thanks man!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr DeeBeez Posted June 3, 2014 Report Share Posted June 3, 2014 no problem! Fi Team 18's (4) Crossfire 16k Crossfire 400.4 & 800.4 Pioneer AVH-X491bhs 140ah cmax CES 320's (2) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norteno Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Finally installed amp. Remember alt was rebuilt 3 yrs ago, then tested by 5 different Autozone/Oreilley's/Advance Auto in the last week and by original rebuilder who took it apart and said everything checked out OK. He installed smaller pulley (42mm). I put on new belt, new tensioner. Cleaned/grinded all terminals and connections until shiny copper, re-tightened all connections, checked all wires/cable insulation. Charged batt up. Started right up, voltage at 14.4v. let it run 30-40 minutes and it went down to, and stayed at around 13.5v at 650 RPM idle. Ran perfect. I was satisfied with that. So I cut it off, battery went down to 12.7v. Next morning, battery still at 12.7v ( so there is no parasitic drain, right??). Started it up and got the BATTERY NOT CHARGING message again and voltage went down to 11.9v. Turned car off and eventually battery went back up to 12.6v. NOW WHAT THE F?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JEFFYBOI Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 Finally installed amp. Remember alt was rebuilt 3 yrs ago, then tested by 5 different Autozone/Oreilley's/Advance Auto in the last week and by original rebuilder who took it apart and said everything checked out OK. He installed smaller pulley (42mm). I put on new belt, new tensioner. Cleaned/grinded all terminals and connections until shiny copper, re-tightened all connections, checked all wires/cable insulation. Charged batt up. Started right up, voltage at 14.4v. let it run 30-40 minutes and it went down to, and stayed at around 13.5v at 650 RPM idle. Ran perfect. I was satisfied with that. So I cut it off, battery went down to 12.7v. Next morning, battery still at 12.7v ( so there is no parasitic drain, right??). Started it up and got the BATTERY NOT CHARGING message again and voltage went down to 11.9v. Turned car off and eventually battery went back up to 12.6v. NOW WHAT THE F?? 12.7 V one day and the next morning it was 12.7V..... There is nothing draining your battery ( So yes there is No parasitic draw ) Sounds like a electrical issue indeed. As soon as you started the vehicle the Battery not charging message comes on? Or is there a delay? It sounds like as soon as you start the vehicle something is putting a very heavy load or there is a short circuit somewhere. I had a issue previously where i got water moisture somehow in my fuse holder and it caused a short circuit which basically instantly drained my battery and electrical system. You got a bad connection or maybe a pinched wire maybe somewhere im guessing. It sounds like as soon as you start the vehicle power is going somewhere its not suppose to be going. Where did you read the 11.9V at? The battery? Try sticking a volt meter on the alternator while its running and check your voltage. "Toyota Camry rebuild page 21 (link)http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/183768-94-crossfire-camry-18s-walled-singer-alt-has-arrived-rebuild-starts-pg-10/page-21 PIONEER DEH-P8400BH 2 CROSSFIRE C5 1700D 2 CROSSFIRE C7 18 HOOD. NSB GROUP48 TRUNK SMS AGM400 DUAL RUNS X SCORP 1/0 OFC 275A SINGER ALT. DYNAMAT XTREME SOUNDSTREAM TA4.280 PIONEER COMPONENTS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kyblack76 Posted June 4, 2014 Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 "So what I'm hearing is that both stock or high output alternator will drop voltage when they get hot? Mine starts out cold at about 14.4 or so and just like you said, it kicks down to 13. 4 - 6 and keeps getting lower until it gets to the mid to lower 12s" Wrong and NO EIDIT - and that has zero to do with pulley or turn on speed. 2nd edit- if your alt does not charge WELL into the 13's, your alt is junk..... SMD SUPER SELLER The Burban Build Blazer Build sold Acura trunk build sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
norteno Posted June 4, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 4, 2014 yea, message came on and little red battery light came on within about ten seconds or less. I do have a DMM hooked up to battery but not at alternator ( I will try that tonight), and it also read about the same voltage as the dashboard voltmeter I have on my Cadillac Deville. Mine used to kick down to low 12s at 650 RPMs until I had smaller pulley put on and it now only went down to mid 13s, but that message keeps coming back. Why would it run initially for 30-40 minutes when I first connected everything and then not work after sitting all night??? and no battery drain, electrical short like you said!!. Thanks for all the feedback, it is really helping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.