How do you go about locking your doors down ....?

[Jessica]

well, long story short, he cut out a section of b pillar, welded in 1/8" or 1/4" plate and re attached latches. I cant find it right now. lol

[audiofanaticz]

Just a fyi any door latching systems used on a door put you into extreme classes in any organization since it is a mod ahead of the B-Pillar.

You would be stuck competiting against vehicles that are full of concrete, lexan windows, roofs that are built down, and floors that are built up to shrink cabin space.

So I would get some big ratchet straps to go around the doors so its not permanent. so you can take them off and go into a normal class when ever you felt like it.

[OrionStang]

On Gary's truck, the threads bungs are welded inside the door frame. Hole drilled in the door. He uses a huge fender washer under the bolt, to spread the stress over a larger area.

You have to determine if there is enough room between the door and the cars body to weld in the threads without cutting the car.

I wouldnt copy anything from Trippis log, that things a mess. Just me.

[Kyblack76]

OK..

now THIS is what i wanted to see when i posted this .........

[OrionStang]

Scott (Blue) knows Killians truck real well. Im gonna shoot him a text and see if he can chime in. Im sure im missing details.

[Kyblack76]

Scott (Blue) knows Killians truck real well. Im gonna shoot him a text and see if he can chime in. Im sure im missing details.

please do?! thanks mang

[audiofanaticz]

Honestly, Id go with ratchet straps for at least a trial and experimenter thing.

A long strap that can be wrapped all the way around your car where your door meets the b-pillar, than with chunks of wood wrapped up in padding tapped to the strap to apply pressure in some areas where the strap may not make contact on the door due to door or roof contours or overhang.

Then you will see if it at least makes a difference, or even a big enough difference to go through all the work.

Like I said a physical mod will put you into to extreme classes, and say even if your not bolting your doors shot and using that mod the judge may let it slide at a 1X show and allow you to compete in a normal non extreme class, but you can guarantee that on a 2X or 3X or a finals event the judge will enforce the rules to their fullest and may not let you run that normal non extreme class because its not fair to the competitors in those classes that are abiding by the rules.

I was in a similar case since I have 3 alternators (my 3rd alternator was still my stock one fore a while also), and before buying them I ran super street 1-2 in db drag, there is a 2 alternator max rule for that class but unlimited batteries and capacitors (wasnt aware of the alternator rule at first) and the judge which was a friend at the time let me run the class anyways since he knew it was a stupid rule, especially since I had a non walled daily driven vehicle with 2 18s in the cargo area and 2 5000watt amps, with a total of 2 d3100 batteries and a crap C&D under the hood. The truck did 153.8 at 31-33 hz most days sealed up. But damn, when I went to a 2x show, I was forced to go into the extreme 1-2 class....

The quietest vehicle in that class was something like a 173db (before I was forced into a class if I wanted to compete)...

There is nothing extreme about my tahoe, and multi-alternator setups on daily driven vehicles have been very common for many years, even CB radio guys do the same thing!

I even went back and forth about getting this rule dropped because it is stupid, especially now days.

But of coarse it would only benefit me, and not the scene as a whole, and no one else has issues with this rule I was told
According to Wayne, my 3 alternators can put out more amperage than an unlimited sized bank of batteries and or capacitors and its not fair to those competitors on battery power.
I was also told that some of the externally regulated alternators can charge at a higher voltage making it even more power. That pissed me off because the rules clearly state 18volts MAX, over voltage is a DQ... for the class voltage is irrelevant as long as your under 18volts......
Im still to this day am trying to figure out how my old dc power 270xp alternators and a stock 105 amp gm alternator are stronger than a competitor in my class that had 21 kintetik HC16v batteries, because from what I was told my alternators are stronger.......

[Kyblack76]

Thanks B

something to think about...

funny story time?

So, Nathan sent me my last 7500. Fucker got it to me in 30 hours. As well as TOOLMAKER getting my a buss bar, wicked quick so i could hit a show.

NOW keep in mind, im not big like you and other at all. Some 15's... a amp, some bats..... Nothing large at all.

Also, Ray West STILL had not delivered my door skins.

Well, i stayed up till 3am getting the other bat in, putting the buss bars in..... I didnt even turn the amp switch on. Got done around 330am.

At 5am, the alarm went off. Its a 3 hour drive, if IF my blazer can even do the speed limit... which..... is a struggle.

We leave at 630am, get there around 10. We are late, thank god the driver of the show is cool. And waits.... just for us.

I get there, and...... with some builds bigger than mine.. power and cone,..... i get put into extreme, cuz my door panels are not on.

Soooooooo, my term pro scores are with fucking Rusty and his van. LOL

Needless to say... i fucked off and smoked everyone. I pulled a funny, and db raced my score at 31hz. and dragged at 33.....(term pro is funny.. IM THE ONLY one in the 30's, and lower 30's at that.). and still won with a dude running close to cone,and WAY more power.

but,... im in extreme ONLY cuz they counted my door panels being OFF as a mod past B.

MEh.... lol

[Blue]

Still waiting on that text ken . But in like Brian said, if you don't mind being put in extreme and don't care about drilling holes in your car then I'll explain how I would do it.

First step is to get the bolts and the corresponding nuts/threaded inserts. Next I would put dots, either with a sharpie or a sticker on the door and make sure that where the marks are that they would hit the pillar and the roof metal. Once you are sure everything will line up then drill a small pilot hole (1/8th inch hole) so you know where everything is going to line up when you drill the bigger holes. Next start increasing the size of the hole to the point it is the same diameter as the bolt (drilling through the door and the B pillar/roof at the same time). Then move onto the b pillar and continue increasing to the point that you can tack weld in the nut/insert into the vehicle. close the door and insert the bolts to make sure everything is still lined up, adjust the nut/insert accordingly to they do. Once everything is in the right location finish weld everything in. You now have boltable doors. Depending on the sheet metal thickness in the areas you might have to weld in additional metal to make sure that nothing will rip apart. Good luck.

Again, this is how I would do it, and not quite sure if this is the proper procedure on doing in. Do at your own risk.

[OrionStang]

Text sent at 430 LOL.

All worked out though haha.