Subs up, Port back really the best for suv's?

[Craig]

thanks man, yeah i'm planning on metering both ways out to see which benefits me the most. i should have my system in today, i can't wait

[kingsuv]

if your not looking into pounding it out in the lanes and just want a good groundpounder then I would do port and subs back. That way you won't have to worry about loading issues with the roof.

  can you explain more about loading issues with the roof?

If the sub or port is pushing air to the rear doors, It has nowhere to go but forward. As a rule it will allow it to be louder and sound better. When it loads to the roof you have all that air space to have swirl around and some of it can be lost and not make it's way up front.

Sound is all about waves. The bigger the wave the better the ride

[bigarsenal]

so thats why its loud with subs up ports back cause the port waves is pushing sub waves forward

[CUT BUDDY]

Would 4" between the port and the door be enuf for sub up port back? I believe 4-5" is all I'll have left after my enclosure is in. And it will go about 5" over the window line but will still be even with the seat. The port will be in the middle but even when it fires back , I have barn doors on the back so its a split that it will hit (wont fire right on the window)

[kingsuv]

There's no set rule on how far it has to be to get the max sound out of it without testing but if I was boulding a GP box for a client then I would leave about 4-5" to the back

[Ernesto]

I've read it's good to keep an average of 3-5"

[kingsuv]

I've read it's good to keep an average of 3-5"

Yeah most of the time you can't go wrong with that. the key is to test and test

[Ernesto]

I've read it's good to keep an average of 3-5"

Yeah most of the time you can't go wrong with that. the key is to test and test

Yeah. Just wan't to make sure you got some clearance for the port(s).

[MrFree]

if your not looking into pounding it out in the lanes and just want a good groundpounder then I would do port and subs back. That way you won't have to worry about loading issues with the roof.

can you explain more about loading issues with the roof?

If the sub or port is pushing air to the rear doors, It has nowhere to go but forward. As a rule it will allow it to be louder and sound better. When it loads to the roof you have all that air space to have swirl around and some of it can be lost and not make it's way up front.

Sound is all about waves. The bigger the wave the better the ride

Thank you so much for that dude. I dont mean to cut in, but I just built a box today for 16 year old kid with a Tahoe. I have the box in my living room cause we called it a day, and I just realized that I'm not sure if I should mount the speakers on top of this Slot port box. He has 2 DD 2512's on a Rockford T1000. the box is 18high 21depth 37wide slot port 30.6Hz 2 port walls 14.5 x 15.25 spaced 3 inches apart. Like I said I wasn't sure If the 24" of chamber depth would be too much, and If I should just mount them up on top where it will only have 16.5"chamber depth(help). DID I go too big? I asked and was told do a bigger box for lower wattage. COULD you please spare some of your wisdom on my situation.Anything would be much appreciated

[kingsuv]

I typically only do larger airspace when the subs are running under the RMS rating. It's a good way to get an effective output with limited power. Anytime I have more power then rated, I shrink up the box to help control the sub movement. It's a fine line between making the box smaller and having it too small to have good output.