Got my box design and some neat paint pictures...will it work?

[Triticum Agricolam]

So you'd recommend to use Joe Xs design over mine? (That's fine I want what will work best). I'll use your bolt idea, just gotta make sure they don't contact my seat brackets lol.

- 32hz isn't too high of a tuning?

- I put the box specs he gave me into torres and I'm getting 2.5 cu ft not 2.25. http://imgur.com/yZrSm5j

I'm not really recommending one design over the other. They are both very similar and should perform pretty much the same. Like Joe said, you will never hear the difference between 2 Hz of tuning change.

I forgot to answer your glue question so I'll cover that now. The glue you should use depends on your ability to get straight, accurate cuts. If you can get really good cuts then I would use Titebond II, which is pretty much the gold standard of wood glues. Its inexpensive, cleans up easily with water, and when used properly will create a joint that is stronger than the materials being joined. If you can't get perfect joints then I would recommend you use Loctite PL polyurethane glue, it comes in the same type of tube as calking does FYI. It costs more and makes a giant mess when you use it, but it expands as it cures so if you have any gaps in your joints they will all get sealed up well and you will have a nice strong joint.

As far as gluing technique goes, for Titebond the best way to do it is to apply glue evenly and completely to both surfaces, wait a couple minutes for it to soak in (it will really soak in to MDF board edges) apply a little more glue and then clamp/screw the pieces together. Its better to have too much glue than not enough, if you don't get at least a little squeeze out all along the joint when you clamp/screw things together, you didn't use enough glue (or enough clamps/screws). You want to have either a clamp or a screw every 3" - 4" to get enough clamping force. With the polyurethane glues you don't have to wait for it to soak in, you can just run a bead down both pieces and then clamp/screw them together.

[Syphlyn]

I went on doing that as I found 29H to rather tall and possibly too near the roof which a situation you usually want to avoid, the reason you found it to be a bit large is Torres itself if you do calculations by hand or use sketchup you will find the calculator misses a bit on port displacement. the 32Hz is chosen so that the "extension" wall of the L port doesn't get too near the wall is aiming at altering your tuning, the difference between 31 and 32Hz is non existent to the ear so I wouldn't be concerned, differences of about 3 Hz or more probably are going to be bothersome if you are picky. If you are wanting to do boxes on a regular basis I would strongly recommend learning sketchup, is not about the looks only but for management of space and measurements, specially when you get into those harder projects.

So I just went out and re measured. 16 inches is my maximum depth not 17. I'm sorry this kind of messes up your whole design. I'm such an idiot.

I still desire my box to around 2.25 cubes @ 31-32 hz.

Ugh so pissed off at myself.

edit: fiddled around a bit and these specs are almost the same. Just changed the Width and depth. http://imgur.com/WbdGVW2

[Joe X]

Did the changes in the original post above so that box depth is about 16".

[Syphlyn]

Did the changes in the original post above so that box depth is about 16".

I'm confused it looks like the port gets wider once we hit the extension...shouldn't it be the same all the way through?

edit: wow you're a wizard haha!

I got it!

Two baffles = 1.5 inches

Port wall length = 22.125 inches

bottom of box MDF thickness = 0.75

1.5 + 0.75 +22.125 = 24.375 inches OR 24 3/8"

so 26 5/8 - 24 3/8 = 2 1/4.

Thanks Joe! I'm going to build this box!

[Joe X]

The sides as you can see in the cutsheet don't go the full depth of the box, they just fit inside touching the port walls, sometimes the 3D figures can put you to think for a minute.

[Syphlyn]

The sides as you can see in the cutsheet don't go the full depth of the box, they just fit inside touching the port walls, sometimes the 3D figures can put you to think for a minute.

Nice so everything is all good to go as long as I assemble the box exactly as it's displayed in the picture, paying close attention to how the walls are placed?

Should I round the corners in the port and put a 45 in the port corner or should I be fine?

[Joe X]

Straight and clean cuts are basic to a good build, and sure any inner edges of the port should be rounded, and likely some bracing will be needed here, maybe I will update the figure to something that shows all that.

[Syphlyn]

Straight and clean cuts are basic to a good build, and sure any inner edges of the port should be rounded, and likely some bracing will be needed here, maybe I will update the figure to something that shows all that.

That would be excellent! Not sure on how to incorporate bracing, at least properly.

thanks again Joe.

[Joe X]

Straight and clean cuts are basic to a good build, and sure any inner edges of the port should be rounded, and likely some bracing will be needed here, maybe I will update the figure to something that shows all that.

That would be excellent! Not sure on how to incorporate bracing, at least properly.

thanks again Joe.

Updated again with a drawing on actual dimensions, cutsheet also underwent minimal changes, showing bracing and rounding in all the inner edges of the port, at the ends and at the turn, bracing is wooden dowel rods 1"- 1 1/4" in diameter.

[Syphlyn]

So here is a suggestion based closely to your desired specs, power: to sub(s) rated, amp subsonic filter to 28Hz, minimum port clearance 2 1/4", figure is just an assembly guide:

- With my calculations this leaves me with 3.25 inches of clearance at the end of the port extension, is that too small or fine?

- Also the wooden dowels are they just secured with a screw from the outside of the box?

- Is 2.125 too small of a port width, will I run into port noise?

- It looks like you swapped the depth and width measurements when you added the bracing, as it is now I'd have to rotate the box 90 degrees clockwise so the port is parallel to my folded up seat.

- Also will the dowels affect sound/performance in any way?

Here's a torres with the new specs including the bracing displacement I calculated: http://imgur.com/TFH5CxE