slowfkncar Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Just by looking at your video. I have to suggest your ground is bad. But if you can do the previous steps I mentioned it will definitely rule out the vehicle or audio gear. My guess is your BCM/ECU module has an open loop on one of the sensors or outputs. BTW, looks like you have a newer Chrysler. If so, the ignition outputs are BCM controlled via pink/white wire,you can sometimes get a dirty feedback from BCM controlled ignition wires. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Redo your grounds and don't run your amp grounds both to the same bolt that can cause issues all on its own. That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Why is the left and right rca's different? ground both rca's together and test again. ground your amp/s to the chassis or seat mounting bolt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerT6801 Posted July 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 Well I had to return the van while I am away for a week for vacation, I will try the things advised here when I get it back in a week.. Thanks for the input... Why is the left and right rca's different? ground both rca's together and test again. ground your amp/s to the chassis or seat mounting bolt They are DB Link Strandworx,,, they are grey/white colored Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIDE SHOW Posted July 30, 2014 Report Share Posted July 30, 2014 AHHH okay. just looked like on the the rca'swas a lot thicker than the other, but they should be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerT6801 Posted August 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 OK....got the van back today to restart testing and after me and my boi trying everything we could rack our brains... here is what we came up with I tried to do all the tests mentioned here in this post. I started by unhooking ground from seat belt bolt and running jumper cable straight to battery NOISE We tested all rca cables individually, NOISE>>> unhooked amp rack power and ground completely, with externally ran RCA to a separate amp powered by jumper cables straight to battery....NOISE Got a separate battery (jump box) and ran the amp rack totally unhooked from car wiring (accept ground wire to head unit).... magically NO NOISE.... so we are on to something so when I tried to hook amp ground to ANY body ground or even to jumper cables right to the battery, the noise immediately comes back We are stumped, you have to have the power incorporated into the van wiring, and when you run everything external the noise remains, so that kills the ideas of RCA pickup noise inside the panels running external ground to multiple sources solved nothing, only when you separate ground does it quit. (when I say separate I mean externally powered) Its like the noise is coming down the ground of the van. I refuse to accept defeat,,,but I'm out of stuff to even try. I feel like all the bases have been covered. Hope y'all have something Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 Did you try to unhook the vans positive wire and run the amps and deck without the cars electrical system plugged in? Like I said, I'f the noise is gone, you have a circuit in the van that is causing some type of ripple backfeed current. The noise is present even with the alternator off right?, start unplugging fuses until the noise stops. A bad diode in the ecu,a flickering LED dome light, bad alternator rectifier... These are a few things that can cause ripple without the vehicle running. The alternator can give problems running or not. If you power just the amp and stereo from the same vehicle battery with the vehicle power dissconected the noise is gone right? If it is present as soon as you plug in the vehicles power then it is most likely a faulty circuit or something causing a backfeed ripple. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slowfkncar Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 If the noise is present only with the key on acc,even if you hardwire your audio systems ignition to 12v, then it is a circuit that is ign/acc powered. If it only makes noise while running its gonna be something like your alternator,bad ecu,bad fuel pump etc. Does every single option work properly on your van? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BerT6801 Posted August 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 If the noise is present only with the key on acc,even if you hardwire your audio systems ignition to 12v, then it is a circuit that is ign/acc powered. If it only makes noise while running its gonna be something like your alternator,bad ecu,bad fuel pump etc. Does every single option work properly on your van? The noise is present even with the key OFF>... if the interior light is on... Its there. If you turn on the headlights, its there as well. If I unhook the entire battery from the vehicle then I'm sure the noise will not be there as the interior lights and headlights will not operate, I thought of trying the fuse by fuse test, but I figure when the interior light fuse is pulled then it will quite. It seems to be something in the lights. These are not LED lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ahmed Johnson Posted August 24, 2014 Report Share Posted August 24, 2014 I hooked up a second battery and had no noise ever since. Never turned back. Even with my ground to frame I was getting a noise. Second battery worked for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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