Cj Kumz Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 Hey guys. Quick question here. How can one tell if a box needs internal bracing or not?? I have never braced my boxes before and I am also wondering what the benefits of bracing would be?? Right now I am building a 4 cube box and wanna try it out. Any input will be great Vw Polo Pioneer Deh-6050UB Sundown Saz-3500d DD Audio 9500 15'' 5.5 cubic feet box with 10 inch port @ 38hz I live to hear the Bass drop!!!
99blazer Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 Little bracing never hurts. It just depends on the driver, how many drivers etc. 08 Ford F150
kirill007 Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 Boxes always need bracing, the benifit is that you can use less weight to make a equally strong or stronger enclosure. Thinking is the root of all problems... You ALWAYS get what you pay for.
hdorre Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 My 2.1 cubic ft box needed bracing.. And I learned that the hard way like 8 months ago This time around, I went retard.. Double baffle, dowel rod, PL Premium'd corners, and then Fiber glassed corners On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said: On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said: It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15 LMFAO so true Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build) Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium 2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power My Official Feedback Thread
Jhunt94 Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 Before the box i have now, I never braced any of my boxes but you could tell there was box flex. So I would always brace the box even if it's just a few pieces of wood to help sturdy it up. 2007 Ford F-150 Reg. Cab. Flareside250 Mechman AlternatorSky High Car Audio Big 3 XS Power D3400Rockford Fosgate 1/0 amp kitRockford Fosgate T1500-1bdcpRockford Fosgate T400-4DC Audio Lvl 4 12"Rockford Fosgate Punch 6.5" componentRockford Fosgate Punch 6x8Pioneer AVH-P2300DVDSMD Volt Meter
99blazer Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 Threaded rods or dowel rods work great and take very little space 08 Ford F150
Ritch40 Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 I am currently trying to decide just how much bracing i want to add to the design i was working on last evening
MrBigs63' Posted August 21, 2014 Report Posted August 21, 2014 In a box design you always want to make the enclosure as strong as possible. On simple way like the others stated is to use dowel rods. They work decent are are very cost efficient. The next thing I would look at would be threaded rod. It works very well and you can apply a lot of pressure where you need it with threaded rod. You can also used things like cutting out wooden "windows" that fit inside the enclosure but still allow airflow to occur. What I like to do is make sure my box is braces at least every 10 in at the most by something. A lot of times I like to add a doubled port wall inside the enclosure to act as a brace. I also like to use 3/4 MDF cut to the same width as my port and glue it along the inside of the port in the middle. You have to be careful when calculating port area, but I think bracing in that area is especially worth it. There are a lot of other tricks you can use also, just have to look at the inside of boxes that some members here have made. If you are using something like a 250 watt rms woofer then bracing probably isn't all that important. Now for a high xmax woofer that takes a lot of power, bracing is always necessary. As for the benefits of bracing you have to think about it in a couple ways. First you have to think of how it will make the box more rigid and therefore put less stress on the glue joints and the wood itself. You can stress one of the joints to the point that either the wood will crack or the glue will not hold if not applied properly. Second I like to think of the inside of an enclosure as a device which channels energy. If the box is not very strong, a lot of energy is lost to moving around the pieces of the box, and it does not exit the enclosure. If the box is very rigid, less energy is lost to flexing the panels of the enclosure and is released from the box into the surrounding cabin space.
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