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Yes, I've wired up 6x9's to mono amps to troubleshoot weather or not the issue was the subs wired to the amplifier before. Nothing wrong with such if one makes sure to keep the gain and master volume/sub volume low so as to not pop the speaker immediately. The guy's amp was rated at 750RMS@4 ohms, surely a 100RMS 6x9's isn't going to blow from seeing rated power or less than since the volume and gain would be kept low so as to not demand more than such from the amplifier.

so you turn up the gains if you want it louder??

2010 Chevrolet Cruze

Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt

Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5"

Sub Control --- Pac LC1

Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K

Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1

Battery - GZBP 12.2500X

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Seems like everyone's butthurt because he himself doesn't idolize the DD-1 like you do. If it's not your system that may get blown, why the hell do you care? Still stuck trying to figure that out.

again, it's not that he doesn't use the DD-1. It's the misinformation he is spreading. He is saying his ear is just as accurate as an oscope or a DD-1. Even the article he uses to back up his argument since he refuses to provide any of his own testing confirms ears aren't as accurate.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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because weve beenthere done that and it can be avoided. if youd like to learn that way as well have at it but I know I dont like to blow money or equipment if I can help it.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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When did I say a person needs to dial up the gain if they want it louder?

I spoke of keeping the gain and volume controls low so as to keep the power output to a safe level for a driver not made to see 750RMS.

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Seems like everyone's butthurt because he himself doesn't idolize the DD-1 like you do. If it's not your system that may get blown, why the hell do you care? Still stuck trying to figure that out.

again, it's not that he doesn't use the DD-1. It's the misinformation he is spreading. He is saying his ear is just as accurate as an oscope or a DD-1. Even the article he uses to back up his argument since he refuses to provide any of his own testing confirms ears aren't as accurate.
i can't see a single post stating that his method is AS ACCURATE as DD-1. He says that it's a close second if you can't afford the tool.

Current Setup: 2002 Ford Focus SE (stock electrical)

-Kenwood Excelon KDC-X397

-Infinity Kappa 6x9's in each door

-Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D

-2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D2

Backups:

-12" Power Acoustik Mofo-122X in 36hz T-Line box

-Soundstream Piasso P1.1200D

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he also says he can hear distortion. as soon as it occurs which is physically impossible for humans to do.

THERE IS NO BUILD LOG!

1998 Chevy Silverado ext cab

Alpine CDA-9887

4 Team Fi 15s

2 Ampere Audio TFE 8.0

2 Ampere Audio 150.4

3 Digital Designs CS6.5 component sets

Dual Mechman 370XP Elite alternators inbound!

8 XS Power d3400

6 XS power d680

Second Skin

Stinger

Tsunami Wiring

Sky High

A Real Voltmeter not a piece of shit stinger.

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Share on other sites

Seems like everyone's butthurt because he himself doesn't idolize the DD-1 like you do. If it's not your system that may get blown, why the hell do you care? Still stuck trying to figure that out.

again, it's not that he doesn't use the DD-1. It's the misinformation he is spreading. He is saying his ear is just as accurate as an oscope or a DD-1. Even the article he uses to back up his argument since he refuses to provide any of his own testing confirms ears aren't as accurate.
i can't see a single post stating that his method is AS ACCURATE as DD-1. He says that it's a close second if you can't afford the tool.

From another thread where he is talked about setting gains by ear:

Setting the gain by ear can be quite accurate, just as much so as an overly priced DD-1 or high cost O-Scope. The key is to use test tones to set the gain, however, this method can potentially damage any drivers asked to play said test tone, not to mention anyone's unprotected ears. With a test tone, one can clearly hear when the pitch of the tone changes, indicating the onset of distortion (before actually clipping). I strongly recommend having a helper if using this method and have then begin playback when you are at the amplifier ready to set the gain. I also encourage the used of hearing protection. Again, even with ear plugs, one can clearly hear when the sound of the test tone changes.

This method should take not more than 10 seconds from once the playback of the test tone begins. If you are taking longer than that, you're taking too long and are increasing the chance of damage (be it mechanical or thermal) to any drivers playing the tone.

Using music to set the gains on the other hand is a horrible idea, music can already have areas of distortion and clipping in it, not to mention with all the different frequencies being played at once, it's quite difficult to hear when distortion begins. Sure, full out clipping can be heard, but the onset of distortion can be next to impossible for even the best trained ear.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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appearently the guys from crutchfieald can hear it...

2010 Chevrolet Cruze

Radio --- pioneer mvh-200vbt

Front/back --- alpine type s 6.5"

Sub Control --- Pac LC1

Sub Amp --- GZPA 1.4K

Sub --- GZNW 15XSPL D1

Battery - GZBP 12.2500X

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I am not forcing anyone to set gain in any particular way, if they want to follow the method I spoke of or not, that's fine. If they opt to use a Scope or DD1, that's cool. If they want to play bass heavy music and set their gains with such, it's their choice.

I can go outside an see what my volume level my stereo distorts at to see if my ears hear different. I know what I heard it distort at when I installed it and I doubt it has changed. Hell, I don't even listen to it at the level it distorts at, it's too loud for me on a regular basis.

Again, this forum seems full of nothing but people into the competition scene and are so very concerned about getting every spec of power they can in hopes of gaining .01dB. And it seems most on here must drive around with their systems cranked to the maximum undistorted output all the time as well.

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I am not forcing anyone to set gain in any particular way, if they want to follow the method I spoke of or not, that's fine. If they opt to use a Scope or DD1, that's cool. If they want to play bass heavy music and set their gains with such, it's their choice.

I can go outside an see what my volume level my stereo distorts at to see if my ears hear different. I know what I heard it distort at when I installed it and I doubt it has changed. Hell, I don't even listen to it at the level it distorts at, it's too loud for me on a regular basis.

Again, this forum seems full of nothing but people into the competition scene and are so very concerned about getting every spec of power they can in hopes of gaining .01dB. And it seems most on here must drive around with their systems cranked to the maximum undistorted output all the time as well.

i'm inclined to agree with the last part.

Current Setup: 2002 Ford Focus SE (stock electrical)

-Kenwood Excelon KDC-X397

-Infinity Kappa 6x9's in each door

-Rockford Fosgate Prime R1200-1D

-2 12" Rockford Fosgate P3D2

Backups:

-12" Power Acoustik Mofo-122X in 36hz T-Line box

-Soundstream Piasso P1.1200D

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