fufhubbin Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 i posted another topic on here and people said my setup is probly clipping like CRAZY i dont understand how that can be if my sub is being way underpowered built my own custom box to orions exact specs.... it seems kinda small 1 cubic ft with a 11 inch long port thats measures 2.5 x 2.5 inches tuned at 42ish hz. i have stock alternater and stock battery ( considering buying a 2nd battery asap) does any1 think this one coud be good for 1500-1700 rms??? http://www.ebay.com/...&_qi=RTM1562570 my amp is the hifonics bxi 2600 the sub is wired at 2 ohms and the amp puts out 1750 rms at 2 ohm load subsonic is at about 30 hz i have a 4 gauge wire kit and 14 gauge speaker wire i got from walmart(8gauge is in mail should be here monday) amp is at 3/4th gain and it showing no signs of clipping. nothing with the sub sounds distored. i looked up a youtube video out how to test if your clipping and i t said to play 40 hz test tune and turn gain up will you hear it distort. well i turned the gain all the way up on 40 hz and the deck on max volume and it still has no distortion from what i can tell. i feel like the cone on the sub is getting hot pretty fast like 10 min of beating the middle of the cone is pretty warm is that something i need to watch out for . how hot can it get till its not healthy. i feel like i should be able to run 2k rms and it shouldnt overheat but im running 1500 or less i think and its getting hot so please post any opinions! ORION HCCA 10.4 2000 watts RMS 4000 watts max hifonics brutus 2600 bxi Alpine IDA -305 Digital receiver 0 gauge power wire 250 amp fuse 800 watt BUTTKICKER BASS SHAKER Kicker zx-400 amp to power buttkicker Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 You should have it wired with 1/0 gauge power/ground for good current transfer for that amount of power in my opinion, do big 3, and either get a h/o alternator, or have two AGM, batteries, one under the hood and one by the amp. Dont mix battery types, like your stock battery and the one you posted the link of. They should be the same type, not lead-acid(stock) mixed with AGM(linked). Your amp is getting hot and clipping because you're using the gain on it as a volume knob by turning it 3/4's of the way up. That's not a volume knob. It's a voltage matching knob. You need to get an oscope or DD1 and find the maximum volume with a clean signal of your head unit, then adjust the gain on your amp to match it. That's all the gain is meant for. And if you wont buy/borrow an oscope or DD1, then at the very minimum, see what voltage your RCA's leading from your head unit are reading with a DMM and try to find what voltage that position is on your gain knob on the amp. It's the not the right way, but it's better than going "3/4th gain" and having to buy new woofers because you thought it meant volume. And try to use the search bar and find the exact same questions you're asking right now. Even google it. Because I've seen these questions over and over. I might be a newer member of this forum, but I've seen a lot of the same stuff asked again and again, and seen a lot of the people who've been around on here for a while say over and over in the last few months say exactly what i said about searching. They dont like it. Edit: also getting hot due to voltage drop i assume, since you have stock electrical and trying to get close to 2000 watts with no big 3 and small-ish wire. Do some research before asking, do the necessary upgrades that are stated over and over on this forum if you would use the search, and then when you come across a problem you absolutely cant find an answer for, ask. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 You should have it wired with 1/0 gauge power/ground for good current transfer for that amount of power in my opinion, do big 3, and either get a h/o alternator, or have two AGM, batteries, one under the hood and one by the amp. Dont mix battery types, like your stock battery and the one you posted the link of. They should be the same type, not lead-acid(stock) mixed with AGM(linked). Your amp is getting hot and clipping because you're using the gain on it as a volume knob by turning it 3/4's of the way up. That's not a volume knob. It's a voltage matching knob. You need to get an oscope or DD1 and find the maximum volume with a clean signal of your head unit, then adjust the gain on your amp to match it. That's all the gain is meant for. And if you wont buy/borrow an oscope or DD1, then at the very minimum, see what voltage your RCA's leading from your head unit are reading with a DMM and try to find what voltage that position is on your gain knob on the amp. It's the not the right way, but it's better than going "3/4th gain" and having to buy new woofers because you thought it meant volume. And try to use the search bar and find the exact same questions you're asking right now. Even google it. Because I've seen these questions over and over. I might be a newer member of this forum, but I've seen a lot of the same stuff asked again and again, and seen a lot of the people who've been around on here for a while say over and over in the last few months say exactly what i said about searching. They dont like it. Edit: also getting hot due to voltage drop i assume, since you have stock electrical and trying to get close to 2000 watts with no big 3 and small-ish wire. Do some research before asking, do the necessary upgrades that are stated over and over on this forum if you would use the search, and then when you come across a problem you absolutely cant find an answer for, ask. HOLY FUCKING SHIT!!! A new guy that gets it. Welcome reedal, happy to see someone who comes here to learn, and then passes on that info to others. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 And OP, even if you dont search, you can simply go through the section pertaining to your question and you will likely find an answer. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reedal Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Haha thanks Orion. I learned a lot for months before even making an account here, and now that i made one i figured i would try to help the new guys from making the same mistakes i made thinking i was doing the right thing. Five years of being wrong and blowing subs, i know why now. SMD Tool Map https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/193176-smd-tool-map-new-november-2014/ Build log https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/197217-reeds-03-tahoe-hat-sqaq-singer-xs-shca-cockbox-80prs/?page=32 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OrionStang Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 Haha thanks Orion. I learned a lot for months before even making an account here, and now that i made one i figured i would try to help the new guys from making the same mistakes i made thinking i was doing the right thing. Five years of being wrong and blowing subs, i know why now. Its cool man. So many noobs come in and ask questions, the argue when they don't get the answer they think is right. Keep on learning, reedal, hope to see you stick around. SMD Super Seller My Feedback Thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philrab Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 What is this crazyness? Newbs that listen to reason about tuning their amps properly?! Slap my ass and call me Susan!!! Seriously though, I got into car audio almost fifteen years ago. Used to nuke a pair of subs at least once a year, never knew why. Too short a port, played below tuning frequency, gain set too high. The only think I didn't completely fuck up was my electrical at least was solid (thank you Dad for teaching me electrical wiring principals so I didn't burn down my first car.) This forum is such a resource for those can come with an open mind and want to learn to do shit the right way. 2015 Toyota Tacoma Build Thread 2007 Mazda 3; 5000K HID's, Kenwood Excelon KDC-X997, Infinity Reference 6.5 comps in front and coaxials in the rear doors, JL 320.4 four channel, Rab Designs built ported enclosure with an SA12, Kenwood monoblock, Redline Leater shift boot/e-brake boot/center console cover, JBR short shifter/shifter bushings/rear motor mount. Build Thread 1996 Mazda Miata: Kenwood Excelon HU, Alpine speaker in the doors, Clearwater (miata specific) headrest speakers. 1994 Mazda Protege: Kenwood Excelon HU, Infinity Reference 2 ways all around, 2x RF Punch 10's in ported boxes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 When dealing with electronics it is often wise to research what every single option/adjustment/knob/etc. does before you even plug it in. With the internet you can do this before you even buy the product. Not only will you avoid breaking things, but you avoid those "Damn this works 100X better I wish I adjusted that 8 months ago" moments. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheLeeStrikes Posted August 25, 2014 Report Share Posted August 25, 2014 yeah if you tuned the box to 42 hertz and have your subsonic at 30 you are playing way below tuning and also in my experience and from a lot of research I've done, most of the amps don't need to have their gain 3/4 up. get a dd-1 i just got mine waiting for it to arrive but ill rather spent 150 bucks on that than just having to spend money on repairs or replacements later on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheMonolith2001 Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 yeah if you tuned the box to 42 hertz and have your subsonic at 30 you are playing way below tuning and also in my experience and from a lot of research I've done, most of the amps don't need to have their gain 3/4 up. get a dd-1 i just got mine waiting for it to arrive but ill rather spent 150 bucks on that than just having to spend money on repairs or replacements later on. Yeah this is true. Look at what type of input the amp needs in the specs and what type of output your head unit has. They will usually give you a range like .5V to 11V or something. The ZR series from kicker only goes up to 3 volts so I actually set the gain all the way down and just go higher on the headunit because 3V isn't hard to hit with mine. On my PPI it actually has a switch to go from .5-3 and then 3-11 or whatever. Something like that. It just routes it through a resistor when its on im sure but still. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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