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I have 300 sqft of Second Skin Damplifier Pro in my civic and gained 2 db. Plus I didn't look like a jackass driving around rattling everywhere. In my new build I have over 200 sqft of Damplifier Pro. I love second skin and would never use another product.

where can i find stuff at?

2000 Eddie Bauer Expedition:

Alpine CDA 9883

2x 18" DC lvl 4 D2

10.7 cu ft box 33hz

knu 1/0 wire

amp: Kicker ZX2500.1

Kinetik

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My car rattles alot just to cheap/poor to buy dynamat, that is until I get the money to gets some.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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what about putting dynamat inside the box wouldnt that make it a tad louder?

Im interested in that one too.

Taking your seats out, carpet, and everything else isnt that hard. You just need some time and good weather. Going over a repair book for your car is also a good idea if your not sure how something comes off. You can get a set of interior fastener removers pretty cheap, there basically a big flat screw driver with a slot in it, makes it alot easyer and less chance of breaking one off

2 Orion HCCA 15.4's

half wall setup with backseat out

3cf per chamber tuned to 35Hz

145.3DB @38Hz in DB Drag Super Street 1-2

Rockford T30001BD

Hifonics BXI 1006 2-channel

200amp alternator

0ga welding cable power & ground (the big 3)

Two runs of positive

Optima RedTop upfront

2 Interstate SRM-27 marine batteries in trunk

JVC deck and Phoenix Gold line driver

Rockford Fosgate T162C in front doors

Rockford Fosgate T162C in custom fiberglass pods

Rockford Fosgate T1692C in stock location

More fosgate component speakers to come

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Well, It aint the easiest thing in the world to do, but it is worth the work. After putting in all the stuff ( see my sig ) I have, I can tell you it was money well spent. Money that improved my stereo systems performance, and made the truck just more enjoyable to drive , account not hearing so much of the outside world in your car " luxury car quiet" is what a lot people call it, but whatever. there is less rattling inside , less noise from outside, less tire noise, engine noise, exhaust noise, less of you hearing the next to you rattling the welds loose in his trunk, and few people with their windows down will barely notice you sitting there with your system cranked up, cause your car won't rattle anywhere near as much ( none at all if you take your time and target the noises with the right products) . Yes worth it. check these links out to see what I did....

my thread on the fj cruiser forums

part two of the above thread

and of course the thread in my sig. I got over 1500 bucks in sound deadener now. Is it worth that? Absolutely !!!!!

And as far as re installing the interior goes, with regular adhesive dampeners , you could add quite a few layers before fitment issues arise, its when you get into the closed cell foams that things don't wanna go back in so easy. Just remember to not cover up any bolt holes and trim clip holes, and don't build up layers really thick close to weather stripping , don't cover any factory electrical wiring up, and take your time.

Edited by trainman0978

2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Voo Doo Blue

my upgrades and "build" thread.

My Kulicki Box Build

-Alpine 9887 head unit, KTX-100EQ imprint-( sound quality for dummies! ). - MB Quartz 3.5" in back pillars

-Sundown Audio SAX100.4 - JL Audio 3 way 6.5" component set XR653-CSi ( doors and dash )

-JL Audio 2 way Component set XR650CSi

- Alpine MRD - M1005 - Alpine Type - R 12" subs -- 2 - 12" s in a Pete kulicki designed box.

-Alpine High speed Ipod cable, and KCA-SC100 with Sirius sat. radio

-All wiring is Stinger 12 gauge and HPM Level 3 RCAs, KnuKonceptz Kolossus Power and ground and Big done in 1/0,

-270 sq. ft. of Damplifier Pro, 36 sq. ft. of Overkill Pro, 6 full sheets of Luxury Liner, and a gallon of spectrum-

-2 Powermaster D680 Powercells in back

FINALLY !!! I GOT IT METERED ON THE TERMLAB !!! I did a 140.2 at 42 hertz.

Shoehorn, BFH, forklift,duct tape and some zip ties
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I had a question about dynamating your car...is it really worth it? I know people that say it makes a huge difference, but then some that say it really isnt worth it.....so whats the truth? also is it hard to install......like, how hard is it to take off all the paneling and flooring of you car (and being able to get it back in?)thanks for your opinions.

I have heard a few times of people dynamating the inside of there vehicles and losing a couple dBs from it. But there are people that also gain dBs. Comes down to the vehicle really. But if you hate loud rattling then it’s for you. Personally I like Second Skin… Sure cuts up your hands though!

Taking off panels is super easy. Just got to be careful to not break any clips wile removing and reinstalling.

Good luck mayne

Rollerz Only - Sacramento Chapter. 6 Time Lowrider Magazine club of the year

94 Xploder on 22s - Gutted for now...

87 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham on hydros, fully euroed out Tookie blue

*ROLLERZ ONLY MAFIA*

Crankin the volume knob and hittin switches.

http://www.rollerzonly.com

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