Karkov Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 get an amp you can run @.5 once you get your alt, just run it at @2 for the time being. I think that CT 1400 is the problem solver! Didn't even think of the possibility they could do 0.5ohm yea, those amps are supposed to do more like 1800 watts at 1 ohm so if you run it at 0.5 (at your own risk but some people do it) it will slam those subs 2007 Chevy Tahoe (SOLD) 12 ~ FI Audio X series 10" w/BP option 2 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @0.67 3 ~ DC Audio 5.0K @1.0 2 ~ PPI 3 way sets (not installed yet) 1 ~ RF T400-4, 1 ~ RF T600-2, 1 ~ RF T600-4 4 ~ CT Sounds 5.25" Strato comps (rear fill only) 1 ~ XS Power D4800 1 ~ XS Power D3400 8 ~ XS Power XP3000 160 stock alt, Mechman 370 Elite, 185 DC Power 320+ Sq. Ft. Sound Deadener Pioneer AVH-X5500BHS Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/user/knfjdkghjudfhsgkjdhf/videos?sort=dd&view=0&shelf_id=0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 get an amp you can run @.5 once you get your alt, just run it at @2 for the time being. I think that CT 1400 is the problem solver! Didn't even think of the possibility they could do 0.5ohm yea, those amps are supposed to do more like 1800 watts at 1 ohm so if you run it at 0.5 (at your own risk but some people do it) it will slam those subs Yea they are monsters, for sure! Steve dyno'd one and got close to 2400W @.5ohm I guess they can handle it daily without a problem. Will most likely be finding out soon! Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
REH Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 You're asking for "efficient" and .5 ohm both. You aren't going to find that, I skimmed over the comments and did not see that in there. If you want to be efficient, with (2) dual 2's, you'll need to run them at 2 ohms... and 2k @ 2 isn't going to be real cheap. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 efficient and .5 ohms dont go together my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Broke_Audio_Addict Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 So are you guys that are telling him to buy an amp that's rated at 1 ohm and run it .5 ohm going to buy him a new amp if it blows? That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Being that amps @0.5ohms are not efficient, HOW much efficiency would be lost on an amp that does rated @1ohm @12.6v? Would it take a full 14.4v to do rated at .5, or more? Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 Also, what about two, 1k @1ohm amps gain matched? Or would strapping them be better? Never ran two sub amps before so have no experience and little knowledge on doing so... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 thats not how it works.. you need more amperage to get the power my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguels Posted October 3, 2014 Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 you can get rated power with an amp with 50% efficiency. the only issue will be that you need a shit load of electrical to make that power. my logshttp://www.stevemead...-my-new-set-up/my blow through loghttp://www.stevemead...future-updates/ 96 ss http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/164094-96-impala-ss-build/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 3, 2014 you can get rated power with an amp with 50% efficiency. the only issue will be that you need a shit load of electrical to make that power. Thats what I was trying to avoid, needing a wad of batteries to get to rated power. I have a Kinetik 850a cell in there now and plan on adding a second before installing the second 15. Big 3 is done, stock alt. is 130a. I am going to get a DC Power 230a down the road but want to deal with first things first. With the two cells, big 3 and a 130a alt., will that be enough to power the CT 1400.1D @0.5ohms? Just don't want to get the amp and find out I need more batteries or a new alternator before I can even use it. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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