AstoSoup Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Your not going to get any noticeable gains by ear-o-meter doing what your doing. I mean, optimizing the box on a single 15" is going to add maybe one tenth of a db. If you want noticeably louder bass you need to add more power and more speakers. It seems like your hoping to find some magical combo that will suddenly make your speaker come alive and just fucking blow the doors off. That magical combo does not exist. Professionals with walls of 18"s and tens of thousands of watts of power go up a tenth of a decibel at a time tweaking their ports. FOR THE THIRD TIME- you need more power and more speakers to get noticeably louder bass. I explained before, I was NOT trying to make the sub louder or even gain any noticeable Db. I was simply trying to get the sub to output frequencies that are around the same as the tuning frequency, as 31-37Hz was nearly non existent with the two 4"s. I went from the sub rolling off long before that low of a frequency, to hearing nothing but air at that frequency with minimal sound output. Again, I am not trying for MORE output, just SOME output at lower frequencies that are close, or at my tuning frequency.... I understand that one 15 isn't going to put up huge numbers, but it should audibly play at a lower Hz. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 The sub is being under powered, not by a lot but it could definitely benefit from something other than a Hifonics amp, lol. I don't expect a lot from this sub, this is why I am adding another 15 with a better amp in the near future. For the time being however, I would like to get SOME lows from this box and isn't the rule of thumb, "the box makes all of the difference"? The size of the enclosure is about optimal for this sub but wouldn't tuning/port area ruin the sound if incorrect? I didn't expect much (if any) gain in Db when switching to the 8" port but what I did not expect, was output LOSS on higher frequencies and the horrible sound that comes from the lower Hz. I cannot afford more subs and a better amp this close to the holidays, so I guess I will tune higher and pray I get the next box right. I just figured despite it being just one 15, I could still hear some low frequency bass.... Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Did you lengthen the port when you upsized it? If not you raised your tuning. Even if you did lengthen it, it's now taking up more interior space, which can also raise tuning. So far we know: Box size 4.4 (total or net?) 8" port (what length?) PB 15 3XL And you thought it was tuned to 31Hz with the 4" Aeros. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Did you lengthen the port when you upsized it? If not you raised your tuning. Even if you did lengthen it, it's now taking up more interior space, which can also raise tuning. So far we know: Box size 4.4 (total or net?) 8" port (what length?) PB 15 3XL And you thought it was tuned to 31Hz with the 4" Aeros. Box is 4.4 cube gross volume. I had two 4" aeros at 12.x" each, giving me like 30.7Hz I do believe. I replaced them with one 8" port, 26.1" long, also at 31Hz. When I had the 4" aeros, the sub was mounted normally but when I switched to the 8", I inverted the sub to gain a little airspace. So there is just port volume to consider when figuring the net volume.... I really do not know how to calculate that, lol. Another lesson I would love to learn though Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 My profile pic over there is the box, before I removed the 4" ports. Never ran it inverted then, just set it like that for the pic lol Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Your first ports took up about .22 cu. ft. together and your new one takes up .86 cu. ft. (Assuming 8.5" vs. 4.5" outer diameter and not counting the flares). Run those numbers with vs. without your sub displacement and see where you're at. Looks like the tuning may have gone up a touch. You might be just a bit too far away from that 30Hz tone to keep from unloading. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AstoSoup Posted October 17, 2014 Author Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Your first ports took up about .22 cu. ft. together and your new one takes up .86 cu. ft. (Assuming 8.5" vs. 4.5" outer diameter and not counting the flares). Run those numbers with vs. without your sub displacement and see where you're at. Looks like the tuning may have gone up a touch. You might be just a bit too far away from that 30Hz tone to keep from unloading. The 4"s were flared but the 8" is not. Wow, .86 cu. ft. for the port? That brings me down to like 3.5 cubes net volume, didn't realize I was down that far.... According to that calculator, I'm at around 35Hz now. Would take an extra 8" of port to get me 31Hz, which I do not have room for :/ Thank you for helping me figure this out though, can definitely see my problem now. Head Unit - Clarion VX709 7" DVD Touchscreen Mid/Highs - Front Doors - RF Prime 6.5" component mids. A. Pillars - RF Punch component tweets. B. Pillars - RF Prime component tweets. Rear Doors - RF Punch 5.25" mids. RF Punch 3-way passive X-overs. Mid/Highs Amp - MB Quart Onyx 360.4, 4 channel, 640W RMS. Subs - (2) PowerBass 3XL 15, 1000w RMS, 3" flat wound coil, 562oz motor, 10" spider. Sub Amp - Audiopipe GD6001 @.5ohm, clamped 2825RMS. Box - 9.6 cu^3 net @35Hz, three 6" aero's. Charging - Energizer 120Ah AGM under the hood, MaxLife 75Ah in the rear. Big 3, 140A aftermarket alt. (off brand) Wires - Two JL Audio 2/0ga OFC. runs to rear, 4ga. power/2ga. ground to component amp (OFC), 1/0ga. OFC Knu Konceptz Kolossus Kandy everywhere else. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jk13 Posted October 17, 2014 Report Share Posted October 17, 2014 Area of a circle is pi times radius squared, so 4.25 x 4.25 x 3.1416, or 56.75 sq. inches. Multiply that times your length (26.1) and it's 1481.18. Divide by 1728 for cubic feet instead of inches and you get .86 cu. ft. So to play around with the calculator, just multiply that 56.75 by the new length, divide by 1728, and subtract that space from the 4.4 cu. ft. box. Static drops are my bag. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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