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Found 140 results

  1. Hey guys, I haven't posted in awhile. Been pretty busy with the holiday's and such and I feel bad for not communicating with the community but I'm busy commutin. Anyway, I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions with 15's that they like, how they sounded, how loud they were in their build, the pros and cons and all that good stuff. I'm going to do a new 15 build for a new car I got and I want to start in the spring. So I was thinking of using an x 15. Fan of sundown and figured getting low and dirty with a nice clean sound won't be bad, but unsure how loud I will be getting. I'm not too worried about it but always consider other possibilities. Now I'm just curious what you guys think?
  2. So I have recently upgraded from P315's to a Fi audio BL15 and I want to build a box for it tuned to 33Hz. The dimensions of my truck are L38xH17xD16. Any ideas guys?
  3. Hey guys, im making a box for home theater purposes, and since it has a 0.51 qts, im thinking about 15-16 cubic feet after displacement, tuned to 15, 20 or 25 hz. What do you think for tuning? for home stuff, i was told big enclosures and super low tuning [like, under 25 hz] Edit: im doing a slot port
  4. Hello guys, Now before ranting me, I've done some research on these RE Audio subs and I'm well aware of the fact that there are threads on this website about these subs. The reason for making a new thread is, I do not wish to reopen old threads or bump old stuff. But if this is not allowed please feel free to delete and pm me. I have tried contacting RE Audio but they basically didn't reply to calls and e-mails so I'm left in the dead. What I've found? Basically nothing, there are a lot of different set ups of these subs. In my case, a double lead (per terminal) sub, unsure of how many spiders. Also, I believe it's a dual 2 ohm, SPL set-up woofer in front of me, I bought it from a guy who didn't know much about it and I'm planning to sell it in an enclosure. But, I'll need specs. Now, the guy doesn't give too much about the box being 101% accurate, but some specs that are close to the actual woofer specs would be nice. Does anyone have some info on how to tune this woofer or what box to make? He wants it tuned real low, around 27-28 hz and he'll be slapping quite some power on to this beast, so I was hoping you guys could help me out. Thanks guys! (Pics of this woofer in attachments, not sure if they're of any use)
  5. Which do you guys prefer? I was leaning toward to RF, but on amazon the RE's are ~$40 cheaper! Ill be getting 2 of them too.
  6. Hey guys I had a question about car audio builds and I figured what a better place to ask it then a forum dedicated to car audio and all that fun stuff. I just got rid of 2 12" Pioneers because I wanted to upgrade my system. I am looking for something within the $250-$400 price range as a whole. I drive a 1999 Lincoln Town Car, so the trunk has adequate space for a big set of speakers. I have a couple ideas of maybe what I want but i'm not sure which one would sound the loudest for the price. I was looking and I found a couple different setups I like, I'm not sure if I'm allowed to post links or not but for my sake I will not unless notified I can. I want to get a 15" DVC Sub and A monoblock amp. Any suggestions? If I'm allowed to post links please let me know so I can show you what setups I was going to look into buying.
  7. Looking for a match for an early to mid 2000's RE XXX 15 dual 2 woofer Will accept a good condition woofer or even a blown one. I believe FI has a recone for these? If I cant find a match for that, I would be interested in a pair of 15's that can handle 2000 RMS and more on burps. Probably going to be powering these off 2 old Orion 2500D (non strappable) so dual 2 preferred but let me know what you have. Thanks!!
  8. I need some help designing a box to go in the trunk of my 2001 taurus. I have 1 AQ HDC3 15 (alum coils), and will be powering it with an aq 2200. My electrical is good so im not worried about that, i just need the box to fit in the trunk. Max dimensions are roughly 38x34x13. Someone please help me with some ideas for this box. Thanks!
  9. Is it possible for me to do a hairtrick with just one 15? Its running at .5ohm on a hifonics brutus brz1200.1d which gets 1200wrms at 1 ohm. Im reading 13.5 volts while playing I just need to know how to pull a hairtrick off. I drive a 2005 celica
  10. Need some help, I can't seem to get winisd to cooperate, joe x helped me last time and I love the box, I can do small hair tricks off of 2-10" ab xfl @2200 rms in a mustang so here is what I have to work with in my daily driver 97 2 dr s-10 blazer 2-15 orion xtr154d dvc wired to 2ohm sub specs are fs:24.5 vas:4.377 ft3 qms:12.044 qes:0.51 qts:0.495 re:7.20 z:4 xmass:12.075 rms:750 speaker diplacment:0.145 ft3 mounting depth:8.54 in each sub has it own identical amp at around 600rms @ 2ohm should the box be divided because of this? ther're going into the back of a 2dr blazer the room I have is 37" wide 22" deep 19" tall subs up / port back trying to tune somewhat low, trying to make the subs breath also I'm not keeping these subs for too long, maybe through summer if they last, will be upgrading at some point ANY help would be great, I can cut and build, just not the best with the math, Thank you
  11. So, I have these 2 Alpine SWS-15D2 woofers that I have in a living room in separate 3.0 cu ft boxes (a bit too large) and I'm looking for a better way too power them. Each has a 500W RMS rating and right now I am using a 1000W computer power supply unit connected to an Audiobahn AMA24002 (600W RMS x 2 channels). Are there any receivers out there that can provide the wattage necessary to power the speakers without having to wire together a bunch of components in a tacky, ghetto fashion? Thanks
  12. Which would sound louder 2 800 rms 15"s or 1 2000 rms 15"?
  13. selling a DC Audio Level 5 m2 motor. motor is in decent condition, I'd rate it a 7/10 because of scratches and one small spot about nickel sized on side of bottom plate where chrome is chipping. asking $450 shipped to lower 48 i know pics are from 15th, i will add pic with current date if necessary.
  14. Ok, I have super limited space in my RX7, I have probably about 2 1/2 to 3 cu ft of useable space in the hatch of my 1994 Mazda RX7. Right now I have 2 - Kicker L7 Truck Boxes in it (model 08TS10L72), and they barely fit. They aren't not loud, but I'm looking for as loud as I can fit in there. I used to have 4 - 12's in my Ford Probe, and that was LOUD, I just don't have the same space available in here to fit much. If you had 2 - 3 cu ft of space to use... what would you choose?
  15. me & my youngest basshead son Ethan were just chillin so we made some youtube vids song is Decaf - Zip31 - Billy Bang - 2Nite http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYZuLloxFb0 song is Decaf - Zip 32 - Love Song - Rhianna/Future http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8_nOa8EdaUw
  16. I just installed my sundown zv4 15 to my Hifonics 2000 amp down to 1 ohm. When I play my songs and turn it up the amp cuts out and the subwoofer bottoms out at a very low level. I'm not an idiot and turn the gain all the way up it's almost halfway up. I'm very confused on what could be wrong
  17. Hey guys, I am building a box for my buddies SA-15 which he is having reconed by PSI and figured I would try my hand at an aero port. He wants the box tuned to about 35Hz and I have no idea how to do aero ports. *disregard the aero port input in torres. TIA for any help
  18. Im guessing you missed all the pms and warnings youve been given. guess what? no more warnings.
  19. Hi guys i need some help designing a box for my new soundstream xxx 15" my max dimensions are as follows: 36-width 17-height 28-depth This is what i did so far any advice would be appreciated.Thanks http://imageshack.us/f/546/soundm.jpg/
  20. Alright, so I've lurked on these forums for quite some time, and im now in the process of building my first real system so I would love some input/advice. For starters, I am a fan of Kicker L7's, I know a lot of people may hate on them but that is what I would like to run. My vehicle is a 2004 Tahoe LT. Currently I have 2 stinger spv44 batteries, a kicker zx2500.1 amp, a JVC touch screen head unit, and 1 4 ohm 15" L7 wired to a 2 ohm load in a super bass pro box. Im running 4 powerbass 6.5's in my doors, and 2 unknown tweeters (friend owns an installation shop and gave them to me for free). Everything else is still stock. My current setup is I have my stock everstart battery under the hood, im running 0 gauge wire from that battery (which I will reference to as Battery 1) to a stinger spv44 in the trunk (Battery 2), and then that is connected the other spv44 (battery 3) right beside it. I have 2 200 amperage fuses on the wire running from battery 1 to battery 2, the first fuse less than 12" from battery 1, and the 2nd fuse less than 12" from battery 2. I have wire connecting both of the positive terminals between batteries 2 and 3 and wire connecting both negative terminals between batteries 2 and 3. Battery 2 and battery 3 are also both grounded in separate locations. Im running wire from battery 3 to the zx2500.1 amp with another 200 amperage fuse on that wire leading to the amp. The amp is also grounded in a different location than battery 2 and 3. I plan to upgrade my system to 2 2 ohm 15" L7's here shortly to keep them at a 2 ohm load, build a vented box with separate air chambers, 6 cubic feet of air space per sub. Now that I have explained everything to (hopefully) provide all of the information that you need, here are my questions. 1) Do I have both of the extra batteries and the amp all wired up correctly? All of the wire ran is 0 gauge and there are only the 3 fuses listed in the set up described above, is there anything that I need to change related to how its wired? Do I need to upgrade the battery under my hood and/or my alternator? 2) I dont want my box to take up all of my trunk, I am an avid paintball player so I still need room in the back for my gear bag and cases of paint. If I was to put the box as close to behind the 2nd row of seats as I could so I still had room behind the box for my gear, would there be any significant SPL or SQ loss? 3) My 2nd row seats are bucket seats and not a bench and I currently have the amp mounted on the floor between them, It seemed like a great Idea at first but now im worried about someone potentially spilling something on the amp and ruining it, if the box is built with 1" thick MDF, could I safely mount the amp to the box or would it receive too much vibrations and damage it? The box will be carpeted and mounted to the floor. 4) I listen to all music from country to classic rock, to deathcore, to rap, to dubstep, so pretty much anything and everything, what would be the best Hz to tune the box to for good daily listening, I want the system to be loud, but I want as much of a full range as possible. 5) I want to amp the 6.5's and my tweeters, all of the 6.5's are 75 watt rms at 4 ohm (im not sure if they are DVC or not, can't remember) should I get a 4 or 6 channel amp, and what amp would you guys recommend for them? Currently the 1 l7 already overpowers them tremendously when running off of the headunit alone and thats with the zx2500's gain at 5%, and 0% on the bass boost. 6) Should I put support bars inside the box for those subs or do you think the wood will be thick enough to prevent any vibrations? 7) If mounting the amps on the box is a bad idea, all of my seats are leather, could I mount the amp im getting for the 6.5's/tweeters on the back of a leather seat or could/would that cause me any problems or be a bad idea? 8 ) I keep my EQ on my head unit on flat but the subwoofer level at +10, the treble in the music starts to distort at alot lower volumes when playing music off of my ipod (its EQ is also set to flat) which is connected via USB when compared to listening to music off of a CD. To explain a little better, I have these same songs on my itunes list, I burnt a CD with 10 of the songs and can go to volume 40 before it distorts, but when listening to the same songs from my ipod, they start to distort at volume 32, what is causing that? 9) Sense space is an issue here, is sub and port both up fine? I've been told sub up port back is better, but if I load up gear behind the box, I don't want to choke the port of air space. 10) Once I'm running 2 L7's, do you think those 6 speakers, even after being amplified will be enough to have a good balance of lows, mids, and high's? I would like to keep my subs as loud as I can without clipping them, but I still want to be able to hear the words haha. 11) With only having the sub amplified, the sub is slightly out of phase/delayed with rest of the music, this will be my first set up amping my mids/highs, will amping the mids/high's fix the slight delay that I hear? 12) This may be a bit un-related as far as I know, but about 2 weeks after my so far system install I got a check engine light with the message, "reduced engine power" and im now getting 0 throttle response. I was told by a certified mechanic that it is an electrical issue, do you think this was caused by my system or is it just a separate problem? I know I asked A LOT of questions but I want to have this system done right and I know the brilliant people of the SMD community have the answers. Any comments, help, answers or suggestions are greatly appreciated, thanks everybody! *P.S. if I put this in the wrong section, please just move it instead of deleting it and send me a PM as to where it was moved to, thanks again!
  21. Ok so my first box i built was the recommended one from skar for my woofers and it turned out to be a one hit wonder. So my question is i used software to design a 1/4 wave enclosure but just want you guys to look everything over please. The vehicle is a 2011 Tahoe. no 3rd row seat max dimensions are 48w x 38d x 22h Keep in mind i have never used a enclosure software before so i would really appreciate you guys looking over the calculations and everything. I would prefer to keep the enclosure wide and deep but short unless it would effect performance. My speakers are (2) Skar audio vvx v2 15" dual 4 ohm Amplifier is Skar audio RP-1500.1 (running @ 1 ohm) I Listen to rap/R&B so low deep bass is a must but dont want to lose higher freq either. I have read that these enclosures tuned to around 29 hz will play decent up to 45hz or so. Here is the specs (sorry i dont know how to do 3d design so i only have measurments) # of drivers 2 fs 37.7 qts .84 vas(cf) 2.9 sd (sq inches) 176.71 driver displ. .18 1/4 wave tuning port 27.7hz line volume 12.53 (CF) external height 20 inches external width 41.5 inches external depth 33 inches cross section area line 185 sq inches min cross section area 353.42 sq inches line depth (inches) 10 .75 mdf Cut sheet top and bottom 41.5 x 33 front baffle 30.75 x 18.5 rear baffle 41.5 x 18.5 side panel 31.5 x 18.5 side panel 2 32.25 x 18.5 inner panel 21.5 18.5 inner panel 2 19.25 x 18.5 inner panel 3 19.25 x 18.5
  22. Tossing up a single 15'' Sundown Zv4 or two 12'' XCON's tuned for lows. I know the Sundown was built specifically for this but would it be able to offer the same amount of throw that 24'' of cone area the two twelves would give me is what I would like to know.
  23. I got a American tactical ar 15 5.56 for my birthday. I know probably not the best but got it for a hell of a deal. my question is concerning the buffer tube it came with the commercial tube and by not doing much research I bought a mil spec magpul ctr stock my mistake. I don't want to send it back to get the commercial one ive been looking at replacing the tube with the LaRue receiver extension mil spec buffer tube so I can use the stock I have. what I don't understand is if I can use the original spring and buffer or do I have to get those in mil spec too. thanks of any advice you guys can throw at me.
  24. I have a PowerBass 3XL 15 in a 4.4 cube box tuned at 31Hz, sub up, port back. Up until today, I had two, 4" aero ports and while the higher bass sounded good, my lows were suffering horribly. When I used the calculator and entered my driver size, Xmax and tuning frequency, it recommended 7.45" minimum diameter and 43.56" of port area. The two 4's were only like 25" of port area, so I decided to go with one, 8" port at the same 31Hz, giving me 50" of port area, all much closer to what's recommended. The high bass basically sounds the same, maybe a tiny bit of output loss.... The low bass however, seems to move more air than sound! I can put my ear to the port playing a 30Hz frequency and it sounds like nothing but air to me.... I put my head to the window and my hair is blowing in the breeze, yet I don't hear much in the way of low frequency SOUND. Hard to explain any other way, so I hope everyone gets what I am saying lol. What could be wrong here? Port is about 6" from the hatch. Inner metal, outer metal and plastic paneling is all deadened with 50 mil. GT Mat, yet I still get rattles from all the air movement. The only other thing I changed besides the port size, is I inverted the sub for more air space. I would think this would yield more output, not less? Any input is appreciated, as I just tore apart a really nice looking box, for no output gain what so ever
  25. What's your guys opinion on the american bass hd 15 subwoofer. I don't know much about the company but i stopped by a local shop and a guy was talking them up pretty good and wanted to sell me one for $500. Is that a good price? How is the quality? Is it worth the $500 being asked?
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