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Second Skin Audio

New Build / first build / help needed


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I used peel n seal on My ford years ago. It's really thin stuff and it smells a little

I use Fatmat http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Adhesive-RattleTrap-Deadener-Install/dp/B003TUQLY2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413857235&sr=8-4&keywords=fatmat

It rocks and it sticks well. Just make sure you clean and prep the car for it

I actually just bought another 100sqft for the L@zy Hoe that will be applied before I build the wall.

Congrats you bought $200 peal n seal.

Op whatever dead nervous you buy do yourself a favor and make sure it's butyl plenty of options out there.

Thanks!!! It is easy to work with, sticks well and 200 for 100 sqft? I have 0 complaints brother. :deadhorse:

100 Sq ft of peal n seal can be had for $120 you paid $200 for the same asphalt based roofing material with a different name.

That being said a lot of people's definition of "music" is a clipped 30 hz sine wave with some 80 IQ knuckle head grunting about committing crimes and his genitals.

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I used peel n seal on My ford years ago. It's really thin stuff and it smells a little

I use Fatmat http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Adhesive-RattleTrap-Deadener-Install/dp/B003TUQLY2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1413857235&sr=8-4&keywords=fatmat

It rocks and it sticks well. Just make sure you clean and prep the car for it

I actually just bought another 100sqft for the L@zy Hoe that will be applied before I build the wall.

Congrats you bought $200 peal n seal.

Op whatever dead nervous you buy do yourself a favor and make sure it's butyl plenty of options out there.

Thanks!!! It is easy to work with, sticks well and 200 for 100 sqft? I have 0 complaints brother. :deadhorse:

100 Sq ft of peal n seal can be had for $120 you paid $200 for the same asphalt based roofing material with a different name.

I am aware of Fatmat's story, It is over twice as thick as Peel n Seal though. and very sticky.

For the OP:

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/20525-fatmat-review/#entry308281

The L@zy Hoe

 

 

2005 Chevy Tahoe

2,500 Watts of Highs/Mids

4 10 midrange

4 6.5 midwoofers

4 Tweeters

6 Supertweeters

2 Lithium 80AH Batteries

24K Watts

4 Custom 18s

Quad alt setup Rebuilt 250amp and 3 370s

Interior work by Lone Star Auto Works

 

The Build Log

Like Loud Bass? Click Here!

 

On 12/5/2014 at 8:06 PM, juan777 said:

See yall there, I'll be the drunk Mexican with aviators on.

On 12/6/2014 at 10:32 PM, boom50cal said:

I did see Juan LMFAO! He REALLY WAS the drunk mexican with Aviators on!

 
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Theoretically 4 30 amp fuses on an amp should mean 1200 rms, so given you have the electrical to back it.. Maybe It will be a decent amp for those subs.. Oscope or dd1 it & you should have a good budget setup going for you..

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i was going to comment on the amp seletion also, theres an old phrase "in for a penny, in for a pound"

second rate gear always cost more than higher end gear, cuzz you add the cost of the second rate gear to the cost of the the high end gear when you go to upgrade or replace it.

the nvx amp is nice little beast for the price.

if you look you can even get a p1000x1 for under 300 bucks on ebay with a warranty and brand new.

other than that, get you B+ to alt+ done, or you have not done the most critical of the BIG 3 wires. and the others withoud this wire mean nothing.

you might be real impressed with those subs just sealed up. or a basic prebuilt enclosure from atrend or something of the like.

the subs are good to go, ive heard them, they are just like your 600 rms line from Sundown, RE, skar, etc. give em clean power and be patient. wait and save for a amp that wont ruin your coils. cuzz i can tell you now that amp set "proper" wont satisfy, and it'll be set to clip in no time fast, the subs will take that for a while probably longer than most retail brands but then one day. "something smells"

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If I was u I would ground ur alt to ur battery also .

On 3/28/2014 at 4:22 PM, KyLar96 said:

Its all about the music anyway..... Do a proper install, something your happy with, Fuck everyone else...... improve in time, where you can..... its not rocket science...

Tiburon build //www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/174059-97-hyundai-tiburon-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-slow-5k-build/

2000 Mountaineer build http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/186736-2000-mountaineer-build-from-ramming-to-slamming-part-iislow-5k-builddc-audio-americanbassxspowersingerarcaudiostingershcavideo-on-pg7/

2000 Mercury Mountaineer: Electrical:Singer 360 hairpin powdercoated white alt, Big 4 double run 1/0 SHCA OFC, 4 runs 1/0 OFC SHCA, limitless 70ah, HU: Pioneer deh80prs interiors: Skar sk85.4 on sb acoustics neo dome tweeters 2 Mmats sq4100s on 4 silver flute 8s(4ohm) SUB Stage: 3 DC5K [email protected] on 6 ascendant audio mayhem 12s d1.4s fully loaded

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If I was u I would ground ur alt to ur battery also .

i have done so already, ive done a ground from the alt to bat, bat to jeeps frame, just gotta grab some diff ends for the 0 gauge to fit the alts pos bolt.

might have to wait to make the subwoofer box for a bit, amazon has changed their mind on the delivery date, it can show up any time from friday to Nov, 6....

( the SMD dd1, dont want to build the box and install eveything and set gains wrong )

I like your sign their KyLar96, i agree but i would have to add its also about meeting new ppl and having fun.

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so i got my smd dd1 in the mail and set up all the gains, now i can hear engine noise / revs. through my speakers. my guess would be that its a bad ground. should i run a ground cable to the same spot as the amps or just go right to the batt?

and the hiss plays though everything but the sub maybe i just dont hear it, and when i unplug the RL door speaker RCA it stops i tryed the Pioneer / Kenwood trick to see if it was the pico fuse, that just made things even worse so i took the jumper wire off.

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